.325 vs 3/8 on a 346xp... which chain?
- Thread starter rubantin
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
I've got the stock narrow kerf .325 chisel style cutter Oregon chain on my original style "power ported" 346 saw and it cuts awsome. I've been using the flat goofy file to sharpen the chain which helps as well.
wkpoor
Addicted to ArboristSite
I'm using Oregon square ground 3/8 on a 16" bar.
AZLOGGER
ArboristSite Guru
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2006
- Messages
- 558
- Reaction score
- 125
Russ:
I would assume that your 346xp came with .325 and a 18" bar, therefore I would run the .325 chain until the bar is worn out. When you need a new bar and chain you could switch to 3/8, although I would not recommend using a bar length over 16" in 3/8 for that saw. Remember also you have to change the drive system to 3/8 from .325.
Enjoy your new saw!
SawTroll
Information Collector
Is it a 45cc or a NE 50cc one - makes some difference to the choise......
I have been using round filed 3/8 on my ported 346 for several years with good results.
Its easier to only buy one role of chain that will work on all your saws.
Its easier to only buy one role of chain that will work on all your saws.
SawTroll
Information Collector
Problem here is that most statements are from people running modded saws - that may not apply to the saw in question......:biggrinbounce2:
I have a .325 (21LP chain) on my stock NE346xp at the moment, but I sure will try 3/8" (73LP and 73LGX) on it, and an 8-pin with the .325. Torque seem very good!
One the "old" 45cc one (stock), I would stay with the 95VP/H30 .325NK.
I have a .325 (21LP chain) on my stock NE346xp at the moment, but I sure will try 3/8" (73LP and 73LGX) on it, and an 8-pin with the .325. Torque seem very good!
One the "old" 45cc one (stock), I would stay with the 95VP/H30 .325NK.
Last edited:
72 LG IME works great on stock 50cc class saws.
I have ran it on Ms 260's, and 346's.
I have ran it on Ms 260's, and 346's.
Ray Bennett
ArboristSite Guru
3/8 for everything! I think .325 is a horrible waste of time. No matter how I sharpen it I can not get it to throw chips I'm happy with.
chainsaw kid
ArboristSite Operative
Funny this thread comes out today cuz I'm in a similar dilemma.
See I just got an 044 project saw and I thought I had the bar covered since I had a new 20" -e- stihl bar hanging on the wall. Being a greenhorn I learned I couldn't use it without changing my clutch sprocket to a .325 .
It would be a 9 tooth sprocket. Wonder what stress it would put on the saw?
I think I would like to keep it 3/8 and just spring for another b&c when I can although the cheapest way would be to just buy the sprocket for now. Anyone ever use a .325 w/ a 9tooth sprocket on an 044? I wonder what the difference would be between that set up and a 3/8 w/ an 8 tooth?
See I just got an 044 project saw and I thought I had the bar covered since I had a new 20" -e- stihl bar hanging on the wall. Being a greenhorn I learned I couldn't use it without changing my clutch sprocket to a .325 .
It would be a 9 tooth sprocket. Wonder what stress it would put on the saw?
I think I would like to keep it 3/8 and just spring for another b&c when I can although the cheapest way would be to just buy the sprocket for now. Anyone ever use a .325 w/ a 9tooth sprocket on an 044? I wonder what the difference would be between that set up and a 3/8 w/ an 8 tooth?
Ray Bennett
ArboristSite Guru
I can not imagine anyone would run 325 on an 044. 325 is used so a smaller saw can run a longer bar without bogging down. Your 044 has plenty of power and will not bog unless you run a real long bar, at which time you would switch to 3/8th skip chain not 325. I suggest you see if you can exchange the bar at the store or maybe trade it with someone on the site.
chainsaw kid
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks Ray,there is a 25" bar in the trading post but it is 3/8 .063 I guess I want a 3/8 .050 ....What advantages/disadvantages would a .063 have? Why do most 3/8 come with .050?
SawTroll
Information Collector
About the same as an 8-pin 3/8", and it should work on 20" bar.
There is only one way to find out how well it will work, for you and your wood.......
....but I would keep it simple, and settle for 3/8".
chainsaw kid
ArboristSite Operative
3/8 it will be.
Still not sure about the a 3/8 bar with a .063 grove.
What would be the cutting characteristics compared to a .050?
Still not sure about the a 3/8 bar with a .063 grove.
What would be the cutting characteristics compared to a .050?
Last edited:
oneoldbanjo
Addicted to ArboristSite
I posted a thread not long ago asking about the different guages and it seems that the guage does not have much (if any) affect on the cutter size or cutting ability. The 0.050" and 0.063" measurements are the drive link thicknesses and do not affect the cutter shape. No one expressed any preference over a particular size - except to say that for convenience it is nice to have the same guage if you have multiple saws and are apt to change around bars and chains between different saws.
Here is the link to the thread: http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=59277
I had a Stihl 029 and it had 0.325 safety chain (RM) on it for 11 years and I never new it was not a good product. I cut an awful lot of wood with it and when the chains got dull I got them sharpened. I guess the saws that are 2.5 to 3.5 HP are too powerful for Picco chain - but not quite strong enough to run 3/8" chain well - so they all get 0.325 from the factory. I suppose the 3/8" chain would work fine if someone was mostly cutting softwoods. I did cut up a Shagbark Hickory tree with my 029 that was just short of 3 feet in diameter and I had an 18" bar - my saw and the 0.325 chain did not like the wood or bark and the sharp chain was no longer sharp by the time I finished. It cut fine on the smaller limbs - but once the bar was submerged in the larger pieces the saw was working hard. I have since gotten a bigger saw with 3/8" chain and it does cut better on the new saw - but my 029 would probably not have been able to pull the 3/8" chain through the Hickory.
Here is the link to the thread: http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=59277
I had a Stihl 029 and it had 0.325 safety chain (RM) on it for 11 years and I never new it was not a good product. I cut an awful lot of wood with it and when the chains got dull I got them sharpened. I guess the saws that are 2.5 to 3.5 HP are too powerful for Picco chain - but not quite strong enough to run 3/8" chain well - so they all get 0.325 from the factory. I suppose the 3/8" chain would work fine if someone was mostly cutting softwoods. I did cut up a Shagbark Hickory tree with my 029 that was just short of 3 feet in diameter and I had an 18" bar - my saw and the 0.325 chain did not like the wood or bark and the sharp chain was no longer sharp by the time I finished. It cut fine on the smaller limbs - but once the bar was submerged in the larger pieces the saw was working hard. I have since gotten a bigger saw with 3/8" chain and it does cut better on the new saw - but my 029 would probably not have been able to pull the 3/8" chain through the Hickory.
Oregon and Stihl 3/8,.050 and .063 chain do indeed use the same cutter and chassis. The only difference is the drive teeth are a bit thicker. This results in a wider bar groove, which may be advantageous in certain types of wood.
For instance I know from personal experience that the wider bar groove clogs up less often when cutting standing dead red oak. With a .050 bar the bar becomes clogged with the fine chips generated by cutting dead oak that it will stop the chain.
I imagine the same would be true in fibrous softwood trees out west.
The .050 gauge bar rails should wear slower given they have more bearing area.
For instance I know from personal experience that the wider bar groove clogs up less often when cutting standing dead red oak. With a .050 bar the bar becomes clogged with the fine chips generated by cutting dead oak that it will stop the chain.
I imagine the same would be true in fibrous softwood trees out west.
The .050 gauge bar rails should wear slower given they have more bearing area.
SawTroll
Information Collector
That sounds logic to me, all the way! :biggrinbounce2: :rockn:
Cerran
Addicted to ArboristSite
I haven't run into any problems out west here in 5 years or so and I've been running .050 gauge chain (72LP/JP) the whole time. Some of the stuff I cut is large, but most of it is standing dead which likely does make a difference.
Similar threads
