346XP. "H" screw all the way in and only ~11,000 RPM, no load. Need some serious tuning advise!

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346's are well known to not be very rev happy saws. 11k sounds about right to me
I don't agree at all - the ideal setting for most stock ones are about 13.8 to 14.1 k (if leaving it to the tach).

11 k is pig rich!

Fuel leak, faulty carb, coil, fuel filter, impulse - tank vent if it takes some time before the issue appears.....
 
The plug looks a bit lean in the 3rd & 4th picture.

There also seams to be some oily saw dust accumulated on the plugs O-ring!
Is it possible the plug wasn't tigthened down sufficiently, or that the O-ring is damaged/not sealing properly?
Just an observation as I rarely ever pull a plug and when I do they don't have that much dirt on them.
Also, picture might be misleading.

The black stuff on top of Your saws piston is carbon deposits from lots of normal runtime, or from running too rich.
The blank area is intake wash, or so I understand!
 
This saw has probably cut fewer than 4 cords of wood....perhaps as little as 3 or even less. Can't imagine it needing a carb kit or new coil.

When I got the saw, I tuned it in the wood....while cutting. It seemed such a pain that I didn't touch it after that. I then took it to a higher elevation so fattened it up a bit. Being that I alternate between cutting at 3500' and 6000', I just decided to get a tach due to thinking it would be so much easier to tune properly.


Do u richen a saw when going to higher elevation?? I don't cut at different elevations, but I would have thought thinner air, need less gas on a relative basis, so would think go leaner if going to higher elevations. I lean my saws a little when it's 80-90'F, and richen at 30-40'F because cold air is denser??
 
Do u richen a saw when going to higher elevation?? I don't cut at different elevations, but I would have thought thinner air, need less gas on a relative basis, so would think go leaner if going to higher elevations. I lean my saws a little when it's 80-90'F, and richen at 30-40'F because cold air is denser??

Thx for catching that. My mistake. I go leaner at higher elevations, not fatter/richer.
 
I don't agree at all - the ideal setting for most stock ones are about 13.8 to 14.1 k (if leaving it to the tach).

11 k is pig rich!

Fuel leak, faulty carb, coil, fuel filter, impulse - tank vent if it takes some time before the issue appears.....
Hey Niko! Good to see you! My post was in jest. Have a merry Christmas and a much healthier new year.
 
The plug looks a bit lean in the 3rd & 4th picture.

There also seams to be some oily saw dust accumulated on the plugs O-ring!
Is it possible the plug wasn't tigthened down sufficiently, or that the O-ring is damaged/not sealing properly?
Just an observation as I rarely ever pull a plug and when I do they don't have that much dirt on them.
Also, picture might be misleading.

The black stuff on top of Your saws piston is carbon deposits from lots of normal runtime, or from running too rich.
The blank area is intake wash, or so I understand!

Thanks for the explanations. Re the dust around the plug o-ring....yes, it is there. Not sure why. I'm pretty sure the plug was seated. However, I'm not 100% sure on many things right now. I'd like to be able to work on this thing and get it figured out. Holidays though, and other obligations right now.
 
Fuel starvation from a clogged up vent won't show up before the saw has been run for awhile.

And that's what happened. It was running fine....for the first ~10 minutes of sawing. Then, it started acting as if it were starving for fuel. I richened the H screw just a tad and the problem disappeared.
 
And that's what happened. It was running fine....for the first ~10 minutes of sawing. Then, it started acting as if it were starving for fuel. I richened the H screw just a tad and the problem disappeared.

When issue appears, open the fuel cap a little, and see if it temporarily solves the issue. If it does, you have a tank vent issue.

That doesn't mean that you have only a tank vent issue though - there may be more.
 
ALSO, I noticed it acting like it was running out of gas when cutting sideways. Don't recall it acting the same when cutting uprigh.
You mention this which is usually cause bad crank seals. This could the cause of the lean out, Just depends how hours is the saw.
 
When issue appears, open the fuel cap a little, and see if it temporarily solves the issue. If it does, you have a tank vent issue.

Thanks. I could find the vent myself but haven't the time now to look. Sitting at the computer, I have the time ask though. Where is the tank vent and can it effectively be checked visually?
 

Ok, I now have the time to tear into this. Have I the patience though??!!

The boot looks ok....BUT, I say that when it's still attached to the saw (carb removed). The boot is held to the cylinder via some goofy looking metal clamp that appears to require a special tool to remove. How do I remove the clamp so I can get the boot fully out to thoroughly inspect? I fumbled around with needle nosed pliers but stopped in fear of screwing up the clamp.

ALSO, I took the tank vent out and inspected. It appeared clean to me.

I drained the gas tank and inspected the filter and inside of the tank. It all looks new.

I've looked at the hoses......and I see nothing that is obviously wrong, like splits/cracks.

I don't know how to check the crank seals. Again though, this saw has cut no more than 4 cords of wood. Perhaps as few as three.

I may order and install a carb kit as some here recommend. However, I though I'd check these other things out beforehand and post here in case someone had additional ideas.

I'm needing this saw soon.

All input would be appreciated. Anyone?
 
Ok, I now have the time to tear into this. Have I the patience though??!!

The boot looks ok....BUT, I say that when it's still attached to the saw (carb removed). The boot is held to the cylinder via some goofy looking metal clamp that appears to require a special tool to remove. How do I remove the clamp so I can get the boot fully out to thoroughly inspect? I fumbled around with needle nosed pliers but stopped in fear of screwing up the clamp.

ALSO, I took the tank vent out and inspected. It appeared clean to me.

I drained the gas tank and inspected the filter and inside of the tank. It all looks new.

I've looked at the hoses......and I see nothing that is obviously wrong, like splits/cracks.

I don't know how to check the crank seals. Again though, this saw has cut no more than 4 cords of wood. Perhaps as few as three.

I may order and install a carb kit as some here recommend. However, I though I'd check these other things out beforehand and post here in case someone had additional ideas.

I'm needing this saw soon.

All input would be appreciated. Anyone?

How do you store the saw? Ran dry? Does it sit for long periods?
I like to pull the carb apart when they act like this. I'll put a kit on if necessary but several times I've found old gas varnish around the inlet needle. It doesn't hurt to see if anything looks out of place. Rule out fuel issues before throwing money at the coil.

Good luck.
 
How do you store the saw? Ran dry? Does it sit for long periods?
I like to pull the carb apart when they act like this. I'll put a kit on if necessary but several times I've found old gas varnish around the inlet needle. It doesn't hurt to see if anything looks out of place. Rule out fuel issues before throwing money at the coil.

Good luck.

I do not run the saw dry before storing it....and it is stored for up to 3-4 months at a time. I believe the saw even sat like this for more than a year once --perhaps close to 2 years-- when my arm was injured and I couldn't use the saw.
 

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