346XP. "H" screw all the way in and only ~11,000 RPM, no load. Need some serious tuning advise!

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rustyb

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My coil is blue and stamped 14,100. So, I thought I'd set the RPM at 14,000 with the tach and go from there.

I warmed it up first by cutting for a few mins. I knew it was rich. I then tached it and she was around 8000 RPM, no load on the bench. So I kept turning it in, 1/4 turn at a time, checking the RPM with each turn. I did this until.....until it wouldn't turn any more....and it was only turning in the 11000 range....perhaps 12000. The screw was all the way in! I don't recall exact numbers but I do know it never hit 13000.

Knowing something wasn't right, I backed the H screw out about 3/4 of a turn and started cutting wood. Honestly, this saw had never cut so good and so fast. After a bit though, it began acting like it was running out of gas....even on a full tank. Thinking that was due to being too lean, I backed the H screw out ~1/4 turn and started cutting again. No problems after that. Saw runs really, really good.

I didn't tach it....but I did shut it down while wide open in the cut....then I pulled the plug. Please see the attached photos. ALSO, for what it's worth, I looked in the plug hole with a flash light....and the piston top is covered with black stuff......except for a small section that would be towards the air filter side....and that was just bare metal.

Can anyone tell me what's going on.....besides of course that I don't know what in the hell I'm doing?

Saw may have had the limiter caps cut off and it may have had the muffler opened up.DSCN3351.JPG DSCN3349.JPG DSCN3348.JPG DSCN3345.JPG
 
is you muffler starting to clog also them coil has stages in them if the last stage start to go bad it will drop rpm when it get to operating temp. i had a saw do the same thing one time
 
This saw has probably cut fewer than 4 cords of wood....perhaps as little as 3 or even less. Can't imagine it needing a carb kit or new coil.

When I got the saw, I tuned it in the wood....while cutting. It seemed such a pain that I didn't touch it after that. I then took it to a higher elevation so fattened it up a bit. Being that I alternate between cutting at 3500' and 6000', I just decided to get a tach due to thinking it would be so much easier to tune properly.
 
Thanks for the replies, everyone.

What about the plug though? I thought it looked pretty good....or is reading the plug in a saw not a great indicator?

Also, what about it acting like it was running out of gas and then being cured after fattening the H screw? Isn't that a sign it was too lean?

Lastly, I'm using a cheap tach. Could it be that it's not my saw after all but a bad tach reading?

It just seems to me that a saw with that little time on it shouldn't need a carb rebuild or coil. But.....maybe I'm fool'n myself.
 
is this saw a virgin or has a hack been in it? the plug is showing it is running rich. if it only tachs to 11k this is the reason. i don't believe a kit is going to help this carb at all although if the running out of gas symptom happened after a bit of running i would certainly vacuum test the tank to be sure the vent is working. it sounds to me like your metering lever is set to high overfeeding the needles. i recently had an issue where an OE i ported wouldn't tach over 14k with the high speed closed. removed fixed jet, soldered closed and drilled smaller. have it tached to 14.7k now at half turn of the H screw. tachs out to 16k with very light 4 stroking with the needle damn near closed. this won't be the case with yours though. i'd pull carb and make sure it is assembled correctly before anything else.
 
is this saw a virgin or has a hack been in it? the plug is showing it is running rich. if it only tachs to 11k this is the reason. i don't believe a kit is going to help this carb at all although if the running out of gas symptom happened after a bit of running i would certainly vacuum test the tank to be sure the vent is working. it sounds to me like your metering lever is set to high overfeeding the needles. i recently had an issue where an OE i ported wouldn't tach over 14k with the high speed closed. removed fixed jet, soldered closed and drilled smaller. have it tached to 14.7k now at half turn of the H screw. tachs out to 16k with very light 4 stroking with the needle damn near closed. this won't be the case with yours though. i'd pull carb and make sure it is assembled correctly before anything else.
I have exactly the same issue with one of my owm 242. Suddently it went superrich, from 1 turn to 1/4 turn on H needle. Did a full carb rebuild pluss exchanging and adjusting the metering lever. Waiting for å few parts before I can test it again.
 
Thanks for the replies, everyone.

To answer your questions:

I washed the filter in soapy water about 30 mins cutting time before taching it....and I blew it out right before putting the tach on it. The filter was clean.

The limiter tabs are not on the saw.

The choke was fully open.

The saw is a virgin....outside of the carb limiter tabs/ears being removed and the stock opening in the stock muffler being opened a little.

I have not checked the fuel filter. I will say though that I am anal about keeping stuff out of my gas, gas can, gas tank.

One thing I forgot to mention: Before it started acting like it was running out of gas, it would stumble a bit upon throttling it.

ALSO, I noticed it acting like it was running out of gas when cutting sideways. Don't recall it acting the same when cutting uprigh.

The fuel tank vent: I haven't checked it. Could it be partially plugged/covered with sawdust?
 
It's just about impossible to tune a saw reading the plug. ALWAYS tune for best power in the cut by starting out just a tad rich and sneaking up on the ideal setting. Limited coils can make the process a bit difficult as some will mimic the 4-stroking when the load is removed that indicates we don't have the carb set too lean.

I also 3rd of 4th the recommendation to put a kit in the carb and thorough cleaning while you are in there. This new fuel has a bad habit of plugging things up, even on low hour saws. I do this for a living and get to see it every single day!.....Cliff
 
It's just about impossible to tune a saw reading the plug. ALWAYS tune for best power in the cut by starting out just a tad rich and sneaking up on the ideal setting. Limited coils can make the process a bit difficult as some will mimic the 4-stroking when the load is removed that indicates we don't have the carb set too lean.

I also 3rd of 4th the recommendation to put a kit in the carb and thorough cleaning while you are in there. This new fuel has a bad habit of plugging things up, even on low hour saws. I do this for a living and get to see it every single day!.....Cliff

Thanks. I was just looking at the plug to see if it offered any clues as to what was going on. Was using the tach to tune followed by a fine tuning in the wood. But I never made it that far...

Is it possible the fuel tank vent could be playing a factor? I would like to eliminate things like that before messing with a carb kit.
 

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