346xp OE handle 24" with skip chain?

[Gypo Logger]

discipline for lining your cuts up. I've never plunge cut into the face cut as part of the back cut, is that something that happens or just an idea in a book?

It's cool to plunge the heart out, makes for less fibre pull. It's a nice cut mainly used on bigger trees with shorter bars.
Gypo

 

[Engineeringnerd]

discipline for lining your cuts up. I've never plunge cut into the face cut as part of the back cut, is that something that happens or just an idea in a book?

Douglas Dent covers it in "Professional Timber Falling a Procedural Approach" pp 101 - 105.

I've never used the face bore cut as I've always had to have a long bar to make the cut. Now that I've sold my 372xp w/ 32" bar and only have the 346xp with a 20" bar, I may have to use this technique. My concern is how to manage getting a wedge in the back, and equally cutting the two sides of the hinge before the tree falls. If the hinge isn't cut precisely you risk unintentional pulling the tree to one side (especially when cutting a little slower with an undersized saw). Seems like a lot to manage! If the tree has a natural fall to the face, it would seem logical to bore in from the sides and leave a trigger on the back of the tree to nip for the fall.

 

[SawTroll]

..... My concern is how to manage getting a wedge in the back, and equally cutting the two sides of the hinge before the tree falls. If the hinge isn't cut precisely you risk unintentional pulling the tree to one side (especially when cutting a little slower with an undersized saw). Seems like a lot to manage! .....

Wedge the side you cut first - but don't overdo it, only to compensate for the kerf.

 

[hamish]

Douglas Dent covers it in "Professional Timber Falling a Procedural Approach" pp 101 - 105.

I've never used the face bore cut as I've always had to have a long bar to make the cut. Now that I've sold my 372xp w/ 32" bar and only have the 346xp with a 20" bar, I may have to use this technique. My concern is how to manage getting a wedge in the back, and equally cutting the two sides of the hinge before the tree falls. If the hinge isn't cut precisely you risk unintentional pulling the tree to one side (especially when cutting a little slower with an undersized saw). Seems like a lot to manage! If the tree has a natural fall to the face, it would seem logical to bore in from the sides and leave a trigger on the back of the tree to nip for the fall.

Suit your saw to the wood you are cutting, dropping from a 32" bas and a 70cc powerhead to a 20" bar and a 50cc powerhead makes no sense if you are still cutting the same caliber of wood. The 346 is a great saw but,not that great in similar conditions. As Troll said, for a cut like that wedge it or use a felling bar (I know almost never seen or used here in North America but they work once you become accustomed to them. Your 346 is much more suited to a 15 or 16" bar..........unless you are cutting balsalm...........

 

[wvlogger]

Here is one with a 28" bar.

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yeah but jack builds the hell out of his saws

 

[hamish]

yeah but jack builds the hell out of his saws

Well good for Jack! I wont use a 4cyl turbo charged rice rocket to pull my trailer..............can it do it yes...............for how long .............i dont even want to know thats why I have a truck, and most sawers have at least two saws.......suiting them to the job at hand.

 

[wvlogger]

Well good for Jack! I wont use a 4cyl turbo charged rice rocket to pull my trailer..............can it do it yes...............for how long .............i dont even want to know thats why I have a truck, and most sawers have at least two saws.......suiting them to the job at hand.

I am not disagring i am agreeing Jack's saw shot not be shown as an example because it is way overbuilt

 

[parrisw]

Well good for Jack! I wont use a 4cyl turbo charged rice rocket to pull my trailer..............can it do it yes...............for how long .............i dont even want to know thats why I have a truck, and most sawers have at least two saws.......suiting them to the job at hand.

The guy did it to prove a point that is all. It is not his main falling saw, which I think some of you think it is??? What's the freakin big deal?

 

[wvlogger]

The guy did it to prove a point that is all. It is not his main falling saw, which I think some of you think it is??? What's the freakin big deal?

i do not have a deal i think he is a great builder much as yourself but i would never run a 28" bar on a 346.

 

[parrisw]

i do not have a deal i think he is a great builder much as yourself but i would never run a 28" bar on a 346.

Same here man!

 

[SWE#Kipp]

Ya, I'm not sure. You could post a message on there and ask him. Or he could of sent the cylinder away for a rebore.

It's a rebore OE346 cyl from what i can understand !?!?

 

[Engineeringnerd]

Suit your saw to the wood you are cutting, dropping from a 32" bas and a 70cc powerhead to a 20" bar and a 50cc powerhead makes no sense if you are still cutting the same caliber of wood. The 346 is a great saw but,not that great in similar conditions. As Troll said, for a cut like that wedge it or use a felling bar (I know almost never seen or used here in North America but they work once you become accustomed to them. Your 346 is much more suited to a 15 or 16" bar..........unless you are cutting balsalm...........

Most of the trees I cut now are 12 - 18" in diameter, but if I come across a 24" tree, I'd like to be able to cut it safely. I cut as a hobby, but my 346xp OE does surprisingly good with a 20" bar (using 95VP). If I was trying to make money at this I'd definitely want the 372 back, but not for a few cutting sessions each year.

 

[SawTroll]

It's cool to plunge the heart out, makes for less fibre pull. It's a nice cut mainly used on bigger trees with shorter bars.
Gypo

:agree2:

 

[webie]

Most of the trees I cut now are 12 - 18" in diameter, but if I come across a 24" tree, I'd like to be able to cut it safely. I cut as a hobby, but my 346xp OE does surprisingly good with a 20" bar (using 95VP). If I was trying to make money at this I'd definitely want the 372 back, but not for a few cutting sessions each year.

You can easily cut a 24" tree safely with a 20" bar
Honestly you can safely take down a 40 inch tree . I think you may be mistaken as to needing a longer bar that will go all the way through the tree , its nice but not necessary for that once in a lifetime tree.