390XP Performance at 10,000 Feet Elevation

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Joined
Mar 23, 2007
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I gave my new 390XP a real high altitude workout this week. I am located in Utah and we have some spectacular forests in Utah known as the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest. As with much of the western US, we have been hit hard by the Mountain Pine Beetle. Some areas are experiencing a significant epidemic, where Mountain Pine Beetle populations have killed up to 90% of trees within infected stands.

I was in the Mirror Lake area of the Uinta Mountains at approximately 10,000 feet of elevation. I was asked to help out with felling some beetle-killed trees. I ran a 32" bar with full comp chisel chain. Most of the trees I felled were 28" to 36" DBH. In a day and a half, I felled over 30 trees. No limbing or bucking, just felling.

The elevation was killer. I have never been so damn tired. The saw performed better than I expected for the elevation. I tuned the saw for 4,000 feet and that's the tune I ran at 10,000 feet. Yes, it ran a bit rich, but I forgot my tachometer, so I decided not to fiddle with the carb settings. Ambient temperature ranged between 50 - 60 degrees F. Based on how the saw performed, I estimate that usable horsepower was down by 25% to 30%. Not too bad, but I could tell that the saw seemed to be laboring much more than I expected. I couldn't run the dogs into the tree and lever hard into the cut. The saw bogged down unless I backed off. End of the day, it felt like I as running a 372XP at lower elevation -- but I had all the weight of the 390 and 32" bar.

No doubt that the saw really could have used a "woods port" to help it breath better. That is likely my next step.

The sight of so many beetle killed trees was devastating. Felling trees and leaving them where they fell and moving on to the next was a little surreal. I've been asked to come back ASAP and the plan is to gather up a group of fellers to accompany me in a few weeks.

JQ
 
A muffler mod is a good place to start, lift up deflector gently with set of pliers and Dremel out area underneath it carefully with carbide bit. Push deflector back down with pliers and rinse out muffler good with soap water gets all shavings out. This mod allows you to still run spark screen and isn't obnoxiously loud. It's probably very dry where you are so its a good consideration to run a screen. Id be tuning it to 13,000rpm as that's safe on a stock one. See how you like it after muffler mod and if your wanting more get it ported.
 
We have the same problem here in Pennsylvania with the Ash trees. That damn emerald ash beetle has just destroyed the trees. Just a sickening sight to see.

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Seeing all the ash trees dieing sucks was asked to help clear all the dead ash from a girl scout camp outside Gettysburg PA early in the summer. I'll have ash firewood for ages at this rate. Cutting at 10k feet doesn't sound all that fun.
 
View attachment 591357 The only mod that this saw has is a tweaked muffler. I installed a second exhaust port with spark arrestor screen and deflector. Then I re-tuned the high speed needle to account for the increased exhaust flow.
Keep a good check on those screws or they'll be vibrated out in no time or install rivnuts.
 
A muffler mod is a good place to start, lift up deflector gently with set of pliers and Dremel out area underneath it carefully with carbide bit. Push deflector back down with pliers and rinse out muffler good with soap water gets all shavings out. This mod allows you to still run spark screen and isn't obnoxiously loud. It's probably very dry where you are so its a good consideration to run a screen. Id be tuning it to 13,000rpm as that's safe on a stock one. See how you like it after muffler mod and if your wanting more get it ported.

View attachment 591357 The only mod that this saw has is a tweaked muffler. I installed a second exhaust port with spark arrestor screen and deflector. Then I re-tuned the high speed needle to account for the increased exhaust flow.
One thing you guys are forgetting is it's fire season that's the last thing you want to do is have a fire get started and be liable for all the bill for a little performance. I know here in Oregon the state will do anything they can to stick you with the bill so I make dang sure I switch all my stuff back over during fire season.

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Keep a good check on those screws or they'll be vibrated out in no time or install rivnuts.
Yes they will never work just through the metal. I wanted my saws to look natural for gas & oil work to get by equipment audits and on site inspections. The guy that use to build my saws would sink brass in there then re drill a snug hole.
Worked really well. Nice and clean as long as the screen was trimed nice. I have had the heat cut the screw once. And it was bouncing around in the muffler for a while. I've had them come of on the brake side and melt the brake off once for sure...maybe twice.
 
I learned the hard way once myself. Maybe 2 tanks and a melted spot on the brake handle. I weld them all on now.

For bolt up deflectors or to hold screens in I will pull a M4 press in nut from the outside with a bolt and then tig weld around them to keep them in.
 
For bolt up deflectors or to hold screens in I will pull a M4 press in nut from the outside with a bolt and then tig weld around them to keep them in.
Are you guys purging these with Argon?

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