That was my best SWAG.....
3rd Poulan 330, same exact problem!
- Thread starter Cliff R
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
That was my best SWAG.....
chevyforlife21
ArboristSite Guru
at least ford circles its problem in their logo. maybe if it wasnt a poulan it would work 
Last edited:
Did you measure the inside dimensions on both carbs?.
at least ford circles its problem in their logo. maybe if it wasnt a poulan if would work
Dose that # 21 in your user name indicate your real age?
chevyforlife21
ArboristSite Guru
nope im 18
Figures with statments like that. Hang around though, you'll learn some things here.
Banshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Serial number is on the box. Mark.
chevyforlife21
ArboristSite Guru
Figures with statments like that. Hang around though, you'll learn some things here.
well i know has long stuff lasts has alot to do with how well you take care of things, i was just raised to hate fords so i cant not do that and why not just get a ryobi for 100 bucks it feels alot better made and cuts great and runs mint.
Well, I did not but you made me go out and measure it and I think you are on to something there. The 330 carb measures .748" and the 335 measures .680 That ~.070 in difference would make for higher velocity and better fuel atomization at idle and there is prob not enough to affect WOT.
Banshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Lets see a 100 dollars for a recondition 40cc saw or a brand new 54cc saw for 175. (that's what I gave for it at TSC). Hmmm...
Well come to the site btw. I hope you learn quick not to bash another man's saw.
I learned the hard way by bashing Dolmar 7900's. I was licking my wounds for some time afterwards. lol.
There, fixed it for ya......
chevyforlife21
ArboristSite Guru
haha sorry for the poulan bashing i went to a small engine tech school and was taught the cylinder and piston in the poulans are very soft and have many problems like melting and wear easily. now maybe if someone takes care of their equipment like they should you wouldnt hear of melted pistons. i think the people that tend to buy poulans get them from walmart on an impulse buy and dont understand how to run a saw and hold the throttle wide open for long durations. but hey im not making fun of any financial problems here. most of my saws are worth 50 bucks maybe less except for the ryobi. i dont got a tsc so we only have walmart and lowes cheaper poulans
Banshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
I'll be the first one to stand in line and not by a Poulan wildthing or wood shark. But these 330's are the last of the good Poulans.
I know a lot of guys are having issues with theirs, but even more are not having problems.
The Roybi that you got is a good little saw btw. I've never ran one, but got to see Brad's run one at the last GTG and they seem to be a great deal.
chevyforlife21
ArboristSite Guru
ive never seen a 330 in person but have heard good things, i considered one but they dont have it on their site so i got the ryobi.
chevyforlife21
ArboristSite Guru
im pretty sure it uses the redmax gz4000 piston
"I know a lot of guys are having issues with theirs, but even more are not having problems."
That may not actually be the case. I had only 1 out of 3 that would stall out if we left it idle between cuts more than 15-20 seconds. The other two just went lean when you came out of the cut, and took a few seconds to "settle down". Then, if they were left to idle for any length of time at all, started this going lean/back to normal, going lean crap. They did NOT stall out during this nonsense, but did act lean as the throttle opening was increased.
All of them ran fine at WOT and full load, so this up and down idle problem may be acceptable for many of those who own them, and they are dealing with it, or at least not complaining about it.
Folks, I'm just WAY to particular with my equipment, and want it to run FLAWLESSLY everyplace. This problem is too much for me to put up with, so I'm talking about it here, and returning the last saw for my money back.....unless someone can tell me exactly how to effectively repair it?......Cliff
PS:
Year 2007
PNS/ML 952801857-02
Model 330
Serial # 07011D302933
That may not actually be the case. I had only 1 out of 3 that would stall out if we left it idle between cuts more than 15-20 seconds. The other two just went lean when you came out of the cut, and took a few seconds to "settle down". Then, if they were left to idle for any length of time at all, started this going lean/back to normal, going lean crap. They did NOT stall out during this nonsense, but did act lean as the throttle opening was increased.
All of them ran fine at WOT and full load, so this up and down idle problem may be acceptable for many of those who own them, and they are dealing with it, or at least not complaining about it.
Folks, I'm just WAY to particular with my equipment, and want it to run FLAWLESSLY everyplace. This problem is too much for me to put up with, so I'm talking about it here, and returning the last saw for my money back.....unless someone can tell me exactly how to effectively repair it?......Cliff
PS:
Year 2007
PNS/ML 952801857-02
Model 330
Serial # 07011D302933
I looked at the Walbro carb site . The HDA164 has a 16.66 mm venturi, huge for a 55cc saw, maybe too big. The HDA 49 is 12.7 mm which would be a little on the small side. Steve
Good information, but that much decrease in cross section may hurt top end power?
As far as the factory carbs, the idle feed hole is noticably offset from the tranfer holes for part throttle enrichment. There is also a "notch" in the throttle plate, that lines up with the transfer holes, but not with the idle feed hole.
On the first saws carb, I very gently opened up the notch until it was well lined up with the idle feed hole, and it didn't help in the slightest. I was certain this was the problem when I found it, but the problem is more deeply rooted in the actual fuel supply to the low speed curcuit.
The saw runs flawlessly once you get onto the high speed system, so there is plenty of fuel in the carb at idle. I've had other saws that acted this way due to an incorrect needle height setting, and they immediately straightened out when set correctly.
On the first saw, I set the needle height clear across it's adjustable range, at least a dozen different settings, and it ran the best exactly where it was supposed, and as delivered from the factory.
Bottom line, there is a design flaw, and/or significant fundamental problem with these carburetors, and it is NOT going to be easily corrected/repaired.....IMHO.
I could buy into the large cross section being a problem for this small of an engine, but I doubt if it would effect the idle quality, as the throttle plate is nearly closed, and the signal to the idle feed hole would be equally as strong with any size carburetor. The carburetor being too large, would more likely effect throttle response off idle and thru the mid-range, maybe even full throttle, but that part is fine on this particular set-up.......Cliff
As far as the factory carbs, the idle feed hole is noticably offset from the tranfer holes for part throttle enrichment. There is also a "notch" in the throttle plate, that lines up with the transfer holes, but not with the idle feed hole.
On the first saws carb, I very gently opened up the notch until it was well lined up with the idle feed hole, and it didn't help in the slightest. I was certain this was the problem when I found it, but the problem is more deeply rooted in the actual fuel supply to the low speed curcuit.
The saw runs flawlessly once you get onto the high speed system, so there is plenty of fuel in the carb at idle. I've had other saws that acted this way due to an incorrect needle height setting, and they immediately straightened out when set correctly.
On the first saw, I set the needle height clear across it's adjustable range, at least a dozen different settings, and it ran the best exactly where it was supposed, and as delivered from the factory.
Bottom line, there is a design flaw, and/or significant fundamental problem with these carburetors, and it is NOT going to be easily corrected/repaired.....IMHO.
I could buy into the large cross section being a problem for this small of an engine, but I doubt if it would effect the idle quality, as the throttle plate is nearly closed, and the signal to the idle feed hole would be equally as strong with any size carburetor. The carburetor being too large, would more likely effect throttle response off idle and thru the mid-range, maybe even full throttle, but that part is fine on this particular set-up.......Cliff
I don't know about all that as the HDA 49 on my 365 at 60cc works like a charm.
Cliffs serial # is much closer to mine so we will see, hopefully I can get to testing it this afternoon or tomorrow.
I have to wonder if the "pressure pulse" from the crank to the carb is enough at low RPM's. Maybe even a miss match between the carb and that cylinder design. Will other carbs retro on to those saws? I know my Chinese Zama on my MS180 is a POS, I would really like to find a better solution on my old MS180...what do they have on those Poulan's?
How about CDI flaw where there is wandering timing at low RPM's
Maybe upping the idle a bit to get out of the bad area of running RPM's..maybe even lowering the idle?
Have you modded a muffler yet on one? That may change the dynamics through out the saw from intake to exhaust. Might change the game enough to figure out a solution.
Have to relay a story from years and years ago to again remind how esoteric things may impact performance. To make a long story short...way back in the early 1980's KTM came out with a water cooled 125. Their first. It was..bleeding edge to say the least. And I experienced one. The dealer was better than average mechanically....and the one that was being raced out of that shop would sieze at the worst moments. Put folks on the ground. Turned out the way the carb was mounted would cause the fuel in the float bowl to just mist from vibration at close to 9000 RPM...he found it with a hand build plexiglass float bowl where you could actually see the fuel go from just gas to foamed hash as the RPM's passed 9000 to 10,000RPM...the thing would go lean and...stick. Solution? Race one, weights attached to the carb to change the natural frequency of that system. Race two and beyond, he build a different intake manifold...problem on that bike was solved. Bet you never see one of those 1981 125LC KTM's in the swap sheets or ebay. Almost every one of those KTM's is..dead. With the possible exception of one.
How about CDI flaw where there is wandering timing at low RPM's
Maybe upping the idle a bit to get out of the bad area of running RPM's..maybe even lowering the idle?
Have you modded a muffler yet on one? That may change the dynamics through out the saw from intake to exhaust. Might change the game enough to figure out a solution.
Have to relay a story from years and years ago to again remind how esoteric things may impact performance. To make a long story short...way back in the early 1980's KTM came out with a water cooled 125. Their first. It was..bleeding edge to say the least. And I experienced one. The dealer was better than average mechanically....and the one that was being raced out of that shop would sieze at the worst moments. Put folks on the ground. Turned out the way the carb was mounted would cause the fuel in the float bowl to just mist from vibration at close to 9000 RPM...he found it with a hand build plexiglass float bowl where you could actually see the fuel go from just gas to foamed hash as the RPM's passed 9000 to 10,000RPM...the thing would go lean and...stick. Solution? Race one, weights attached to the carb to change the natural frequency of that system. Race two and beyond, he build a different intake manifold...problem on that bike was solved. Bet you never see one of those 1981 125LC KTM's in the swap sheets or ebay. Almost every one of those KTM's is..dead. With the possible exception of one.
