70cc or ported 562xp

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Many times, what is utilized is what opportunity brings forth. There are a variety of chainsaws that will get the job done.

I happen to be a 372 man myself. I've seen the evidence of the screws that came loose that the operator never bothered to tighten.
 
Many times, what is utilized is what opportunity brings forth. There are a variety of chainsaws that will get the job done.

I happen to be a 372 man myself. I've seen the evidence of the screws that came loose that the operator never bothered to tighten.

...whish is operator error! :msp_wink:
 
All the huskies do rattle screws and bolts out. Locktite is your friend with them. The muffler bolts are the worst...

The nameplate on the cylinder shroud of the MS440's turns into a blur from the vibrations. Loctite on the muffler bolts. Checking bolt tightness is routine maintenance, so the manual says.
 
not bashing huskys ,but they need to put the little grippy things on the back of the screws like stihl does :msp_thumbup:
 
562 is definately overrated. I don't partake in the whole "one saw plan" concept though. I bought a West Coast version of the 562 and two 359's at the same time. I was under the impression from reading several post that the 562 would run with 70cc saws. My 68cc Sachs dolmar 120si ate it alive so I didnt even bother running it against my 2171. For me, the performance didnt justify the cost-$850. I have about the same amount in both my 359s as the one 562 and I prefer their performance/cost.
Very interesting!! Changes my thinking, but had a feeling this was the case!! THANKS!!!
 
562 Runs better than any 60cc saw I've ever ran stock. But when people compare it to 70cc saws on 24 inch bars i have to laugh.
 
With a 20" bar i will take the weighg of a 562 over the extra weight of a 372. When you run a saw 10-12 hours everyday to feed your family and pay the bills its different than only collecting them,cutting cookies.GTG's,or even occasional firewood,you use the lightest,smallest saw that will get the job done there is no sense running my 390xp 32" bar in 20" wood when i can use the 562 or even 346 if its not hardwood.
 
How about a Ported MS261 vs. a stock 562XP

[video=youtube_share;aUyyqlIKuBM]http://youtu.be/aUyyqlIKuBM[/video]
 
What did it confirm for you???? The 50cc Stihl just smoked the 60cc saw:msp_biggrin:

Cale is just messing with you all...
And yes, the 261 he showed is BUILT...
It should have beaten the 562 by even more...
:laugh::laugh::laugh:

.3 seconds????

:laugh:
 
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Ok sooooo 261 with a 20" bar is $560+$250 for porting+$50 for 2-way shipping that is $860. A 562xp with a 20" cost me $680 and it lost by .3 seconds and a 261 doesn't handle as good as a 562:rolleyes2:
 
Ok sooooo 261 with a 20" bar is $560+$250 for porting+$50 for 2-way shipping that is $860. A 562xp with a 20" cost me $680 and it lost by .3 seconds and a 261 doesn't handle as good as a 562:rolleyes2:

My point exactly... And the fuel economy of the stock 562 is just freaky...
Of course I'm off topic here... I'd still get a bigger saw if I were the OP... I don't know if I'd want to have a 562 wear a 24" bar all the time...
A 7910 would suit his needs well...
:laugh:
 
Cale is just messing with you all...
And yes, the 261 he showed is BUILT...
It should have beaten the 562 by even more...
:laugh::laugh::laugh:

.3 seconds????

:laugh:

Also, there may have been several variables that we know nothing of - comparisons like that is fun, but the information value is close to nil. :msp_wink:
 
Assuming the 562 with 20" will handle most jobs, I'd keep it. But if there's some jobs that come along which certainly call for a bigger saw, I'd skip the 372 and get a 385 or 390. Something like that which you can put a 28" bar on and pull it out for the stuff that's too much to reasonably ask of the 562. I've always kinda thought chainsaws were a bit like ammo. There's usually a lot of hype with the new hot thing, but the actual real world gains are hardly breathtaking, even if it is a noticeable improvement. My dad bought a Ruger M77 in .284 winchester when it was a new cartridge. It was supposed to be the awesome new hotness short action cartridge. But in practical use, what's the diff. between it and a .270 or 30-06? Very little. But all the hunting magazines made readers think they'd suddenly go from a mediocre shot to shooting 10" groups at 1000 yards with the .284.
 
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I've always thought of the 372 as a good saw. Curious to know what's falling off. Screws vibrating loose?

Phillip,

That is where the issues indeed started. It's a very long story, to be honest I've started a thread about it several times and never posted it because it would surely turn into nothing but a, well you know.

Suffice it to say that after I investigated myself and found the reason all the screws were coming loose, recoil housing, cover, and handle. Based upon my experience in machining, design, and product testing / failure analysis, the fact all tapped holes in my saw accepted calibrated 6H no go thread gauges pretty much entire length is a major manufacturing defect. The typical standard for 6H no go is no more than 1/2 turn if it starts at all. In tapping internals, castings especially, the max. material condition should be the target for strength in a softer more porous material. We were unable to determine whether Husky was roll forming the threads or cutting them without a destructive test but the inspector did offer to trash my saw in the interest of science.

While I can deal with loctiting the cover screws in, the fact 2 of the handle screws backed out on me was a concern. One for obvious reasons control of the saw in the cut, but also the resistance wires go through the mount and into the handle meaning if that loosens up they will probably short sooner than later, and there goes the reason I bought the "G" version in the first place.

While I'm at it. I did approach the dealer that sold me the saw as it was still under warranty. I was told they all do that now go away. When the handle screws came loose I contacted the dealer a second time and was told to just make sure they're "real tight'' now go away. Here is where I have a bit of heartburn with those that say follow the manual, I read the manual and I asked the dealer and called Husky directly, no one will give me or seems to have a clue as to what the correct torque spec is for any of the fasteners. To my way of thinking, they would want that info readily available to be sure customers not only properly tighten but prevent stripping as well. We always put torque specs in the manuals when I was in the winch business. Therefore, I would torque them if I had a spec, but I'm sorry Snap-On doesn't put a "real tight" setting on their torque wrenches. It's probably right next to the "Ooops too much" mark. The other issue I have is because the threads are poorly machined to start and many are egged out at the top, the last thing I want to do is strip out the casting.

As to screws vibrating loose, again I know for a fact vibration testing capabilities have existed for a long, long time. It would be pretty easy and not all that costly, (again I know from the winch industry, think of what a winch on the front of a moving vehicle sees for hundreds of thousands of miles) for Husky to contract with TUV, Intertek or UL to name a few and get some real good data on this problem and solve it, if as the dealer told me "they all do that" is really true.

Well Phillip, you asked, and I hope this response answers your inquiry. If you believe me and my findings, on my saw, great, if not well what can I say.

Other thoughts, yes I called my 372XPG a POS. Maybe a chunk of that comes from being very jaded by how helpful, or should I say not at all helpful Husky and the dealer were in addressing my issues and questions. I've owned a bunch of Husky's over the years, but this issue with all the screws and bolts loosening, egging the top of the internal threads and falling out is a new one to me, and probably not one of which Husky should be proud. (Maybe the same group that proof reads the catalog QC's the machining?? Little joke there folks)

To jeffro68, my sincere apology, if I've caused your thread to be hijacked I meant no disrespect.

Take Care
 

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