Adjustable Bridge

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Tim Gardner

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I have been doing searches through the posts here on AS and have found a few threads with references to adjustable bridges but I have not found a description or pic of the one like I have been playing with (see attachment) The two differences are that you can still use a true split tail system and the length of line between your TIP and dee ring does not change as it is adjusted. I use a Blake’s hitch to attach the line to the dee ring biner and I use the rope eye splice to attach the VT. A traditional split tail can also be used such as a Blake’s or just leave a longer tail and tie another Blake’s onto the standing part. It allows you to adjust the VT just out of reach for limb walking returns and still be able to pull it back within reach. Take a look at the pics and let me know what you guys think.
 
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Originally posted by Mike Maas
Falling to your death comes to mind, but other than that it's ok.;)

What do you mean by that Mike? I have used the setup and nothing gave or slipped. The Blake's on the dee ring biner gets kinda tight but not enough you can't adjust it.
 
Why the need for adjustment?? So it can be short as well for use with the slacktender?

Mike - what do you really think?:eek:
 
hum?

My thought is you can't use this now as the infinte lanyard, and it would take a while to untie and reset the VT every time you wanted to throw the working end around a new crotch. but neat for those one crotch trees.
Although I guess you could unclip fron the VT and throw that whole mess, but I would be afraid of getting it caught somewhere up there:(

Might give it a whirl some time
 
Re: hum?

Originally posted by Matt Follett
My thought is you can't use this now as the infinte lanyard, and it would take a while to untie and reset the VT every time you wanted to throw the working end around a new crotch.

It will still work as a lanyard and the VT will unclip from the working end without untying it. But you are right about it might get snagged in a tight crotch but no more than the traditional climbing system with a snap tied in.
 
Here is a pic with the system used as a lanyard. The eye splice is clipped into the biner for security. A little bulky but I would not need this system for all climbs.
 
hmmm?

Tim- This pics look great. I am sure I could set this up easy, but what are the advantages? You mention walking out on a limb. Is it better to have a long bridge when out on a limb? I always like to have things close to me, but I'm willing to try new things!

love
nick
 
Tim;

I published a similar setup in the October 2001 issue of Arborist News magazine. The only difference was that I used a Schwabisch instead of a Blake's and I cautioned that you should not use the French prusik for the climbing hitch.

I tried a number of hitches for both of the knots in this configuration (the actual climbing hitch and the sliding 'adjustment' hitch). In my experience there are a number of knots that could be safely used for the adjustment hitch. Whatever knot is used I think it is best if the adjustment knot is as short as possible. You can also use a number of different knots for the climbing hitch, but, as I said above, I don't think that you should use the French prusik. The Fp can be exteremely variable depending upon the length, diamater, construction, material and wear of the tail and the diameter, construction and wear of the climbing line. The problem is that the Fp does not grab reliably after it has been advanced by your hand or the slack tender. There are times that you have to hold the Fp after it has been advanced so that it contacts the climbing line and tightens up to hold you in place. This becomes difficult or even impossible when the climbing hitch is moved farther from the climber. The particular setup that you now use may work well, but if you change some component (eg. use a different split tail) the Fp may not grab reliably. Someone else who uses a similar setup (i.e. a Fp for the climbing hitch) may find that it does not grab at all.

People should also be aware that the adjustment knot (Blake's in your setup) may need some 'tweaking' as it is moved back and forth from the wider, spliced, part of the line (right near the eye) to the slightly smaller, narrower portion of the rope above the splice.

In general I thnk that an adjustable bridge is a great setup. I don't use it on every tree, but I do use it often; I like being able to quickly and easily adjust how far away the climbing hitch is. There are numerous situations when I want the climbing hitch close and within easy reach, but there are other times when I want the hitch farther away and self-advancing (I attach the slack tender to the other leg of the climbing line).

In that same AN article I also showed a 'non-detachable split tail' for a sliding bridge. Some years ago Knut Foppe introduced a double bridge. He did it as a 'double Distal', but it can be done with other hitches as well. A year or two ago Xian Hunter described an extendable bridge. All of these have been discussed, to a greater or lesser extent, on the ISA discussion board. Unfortunately, some of those posts have been archived and it may not be possible to retrieve them.

Mahk
 
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Mahk,

Thank you for your post and explanations of the different set ups and what to look out for. I don’t have that magazine. Is there a link to it or possibly do you have some pics of your systems?
 
Tim;

Send me your address and I will mail you a photo copy of the article. There are pictures in the article which should (I hope) be clear enough to understand on the photo copy.

Nick;

If you want descriptions of more possible uses I will post some later.

Mahk
 
Tim,

Nice setup!! I have used the set up as Mark showed in the mag a yr ago, and with a butterfly knot, which is not adjustable like the Blake's setup you have shown. I like it!!! However, since I seldom body thrust, I rarely use this setup.

Mahk,

The Vt works really sweet in this setup, as long as the user has lots of experience with it...But a schwabisch/distel would be just fine and safer.

All other guys:

The real advantage is being able to make long body thrusts and not have to touch your knot, as it self advances.
 
It gets frustrating sometimes trying to learn new techniques by yourself. Thank you to everyone here on ArborSite and the Buzz. I have learned a lot of new things that would have taken two lifetimes on my own. This is why I started this thread. You guys’ input on things means a great deal to me.
 
Originally posted by rbtree
All other guys:

The real advantage is being able to make long body thrusts and not have to touch your knot, as it self advances.
I don't body thrust any more, since getting my Pantin. I wear it on most trims and use it on the running end of my rope for ascents. Makes it a LOT easier working multiple lead trees. :p
 
:p

I could see this for very vertical trees where you have a lot of up and down climbing. If you can get the friction hitch to self advance as you pull down on the trailing end of the rope.

My problem with the Adams Bridge ;), Mahks first incarnationwas that it was separate from both ends of the rope and could advance beyond reach. Had it happen once while playng with it.

Looks like the Gardner hitch:D has a place in ones bag of tricks, though too bulky for regular use.

Brian, try it for a long ascent with your Pantin.
 
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