Advanced Falling Cuts

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i'll try.......Heath ya put a second smaller notch opposite the first but at a slightly different angle so that the tree rolls a little bit as it follows the notches. so if you made a humbolt then the snipe is in the log, conventional the snipe is in the stump.

I do it other way, I put snipe on stump with a humboldt. Don't really make conventional notches. Most everything I drop is saw timber, so I like to get the most out of it. If it is a firewood tree, I still use a humboldt, because the more you practice, the better you get. Clean out the crotch of the notch always, and look up.
 
It seems to me like it would be hard to judge how much these techniques will turn a tree. Can you tell exactly where it will go or is it more "well, it's going left of where I gunned it" and hope for the best?
Gawd how I love these threads, and appreciate it when the big boys play along and give advice.
Two choices.
Be like me. Put u'r bestest face in the direction you want the tree to go (within reason). Try u'r best to judge the lean, then set up a block/kerf Dutchman from the face side (maybe with a bore, maybe not) to compensate for the lean as best you can. Then try to put in a level back cut and hope.

Or be like the big boys. Put in a really nice face, get a feel for the lean/wind/earth rotation etc., then turn the tree by feel with the back cut, and hit u'r mark 99.5% of the time.
 
My Herro.

I was talking about the snipe, but again, you maka it clears FO me

Is it wrong that I make the bottom cut first on my face, and then do the top till the chunk moves?

You know, 20-30% below level for 1st cut, and the 60-70% above level for 2nd cut?
When they intersect, the chunk moves ;)
 
My Herro.

I was talking about the snipe, but again, you maka it clears FO me

Is it wrong that I make the bottom cut first on my face, and then do the top till the chunk moves?

You know, 20-30% below level for 1st cut, and the 60-70% above level for 2nd cut?
When they intersect, the chunk moves ;)

not wrong ,maybe a little harder for me though ,a smart man once told me to make my back cut before the face if falling into a slight breeze ,it kept my bar from getting pinched ,worked great

tree felling heath 002.JPG
 
Better yet ,watch this movie ,excellent video of a faller doing a snipe ,and what the tree does bouncing off of the snipe


Oh44 FTW!!!

I'm gonna have 1 that's just like that one, one of these years ;) to go with ol' trustee.

Ol' trustee is giving me concern. I've got to check it out today since it's rainy anyways.

Hopefully it's something little that I can fix today so I won't have to use my 660 unless I want to. ;)
 
Whats the purpose behind the really narrow face cut? I was taught to cut the sloping cut at a 45 degree from the gunning cut. Is it just to save a little time cutting? I suppose cutting at less of an angle is probably more efficient (saw cuts quicker, less distance).
 
Was talking to a faller the other day ,they were falling with no face ,they must have had some good lean going to not need one i guess ,seems like would not get good aim to me though
Even if we are pushing them over with the high reach or a hoe, they still get notched.
 
Was talking to a faller the other day ,they were falling with no face ,they must have had some good lean going to not need one i guess ,seems like would not get good aim to me though
jumpin.........i didn't think any one did that there. i used to do it alot in pecker poles.........makes good time but its dangerous as hell. idk bout that side but most pine thickets can be felled east here.
 
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