Another 262XP Thread

[barneyrb]

Looks like there is lots of weight difference between the two new pistons......

 

[fred1970]

Hey! Looks like your saw is going to real nice. I saw an Alabama license plate in the back ground in one of your pics. Is that where you were living before you moved to Alaska? Talk about a climate change!:msp_biggrin:

 

[dellaquila]

Hey! Looks like your saw is going to real nice. I saw an Alabama license plate in the back ground in one of your pics. Is that where you were living before you moved to Alaska? Talk about a climate change!:msp_biggrin:

Dang, good eye! Yep, I lived in Huntsville for 2 years before moving up here. 6 years in southern IL right before that and about 6 weeks in Charleston, SC. Born and raised in PA though so I'm no stranger to snow and winter.... although the constant -40 here this winter was pretty depressing. Warming up now though, gonna be a sloppy mess in a few weeks I imagine.

 

[fred1970]

Dang, good eye! Yep, I lived in Huntsville for 2 years before moving up here. 6 years in southern IL right before that and about 6 weeks in Charleston, SC. Born and raised in PA though so I'm no stranger to snow and winter.... although the constant -40 here this winter was pretty depressing. Warming up now though, gonna be a sloppy mess in a few weeks I imagine.

Well those Bama tags catch my eye. Well it probably won't be as bad for you as it would be for me. Born and raised in Bama so I know it would kill me:msp_biggrin:

 

[dellaquila]

Looks like there is lots of weight difference between the two new pistons......

You know, I thought that too after I opened the Meteor and saw how light it "looked"... but I just weighed them with my wife's cooking scale (ok, so not super accurate, but the best I have) and both came out right at 3 oz. On the gram scale it did look like the Star Gry may be 3-6 grams heavier, but I'm sure that's way outside the precision capability of the plastic scale. Just holding both in your hands doesn't feel any different either. I think the Meteor is just polished up nicer and has more time put into making it. I'm still on the fence as to which to install... I mean, I already spent the $20 or so on the Star Gry. If nothing else, I could install it and run it this summer and then swap it out for the Meteor next winter.

Has anyone ran just the piston, not the piston & cylinder from Star Gry with any kind of success?

 

[Lingham]

Brad, your close, but that would be Kolbenschmidt. Also your hda 87 carb is the larger, more desirable carb for these.

Why is the HDA87 more desirable?

Thanks,

 

[SawTroll]

I believe the jug is a Klien Schmidt.

Brad, your close, but that would be Kolbenschmidt. Also your hda 87 carb is the larger, more desirable carb for these.

Kolbenschmidt is correct, there is an integrated K and S clearly visible on the cylinder, to ID the originator.

HDA 87 was the carb used on the older ones, as I remember it - this saw is from 1992 week 19, according to the serial number.

Cool thread with lots of good pictures! :msp_thumbup:

 

[Lingham]

On the two pictures of the bottom of the top cover, there's a little white plastic piece that can be slid into 1 of 2 slots. I have a picture of it in each one. What's the purpose of moving it to the one that leaves the gap? It seems to me that the air filter would just have access to air above the cylinder which I imagine would be fairly warm... is that for running in cold temps?

Also, does anyone know where I can get a 262XP sticker like the original air filter cover had? All I've found is the starter housing cover (which I already have).

I'm still hoping to get the crankcase split sometime soon and get everything cleaned up then painted. I may replace the crank bearings since I'll have it apart anyway, but I haven't decided yet. I've already ordered new seals for it.

Re, your question: yes it is for cold temperature, at expense of a drty filter sooner.

 

[dellaquila]

Re, your question: yes it is for cold temperature, at expense of a drty filter sooner.

Makes sense. Thanks for answering!

I started splitting the crankcase yesterday but forgot I had to remove that brass gear for the oiler first. I read on this thread 262XP project (pic heavy) what Fredmc said:

If you ever run in to the brass worm gear again, use an iron pipe fitting that fits the gear threads. Screw it on the worm gear and use a three jaw puller to remove it. Same with installation- the pipe fitting gives you something to tap on.

So I will be trying to find the right thread iron pipe fitting today at Lowe's. I don't have a 3 jaw puller either so I may pick one up or just use some heat and a pair of vicegrips. The crankcase splitter I used on my dirtbike works fine. I got it here: Rocky Mountain ATV/MC.

 

[SawTroll]

I'm still waiting on a big order but have received some stuff for the rebuild...

Meteor piston came in. Here's a few pictures showing the difference between the original, Star Gry and Meteor. The Star Gry is in the middle. Meteor is a lot smoother and just feels higher quality: ......

Meteor is reputed to be the best quality aftermarket stuff. :msp_wink:

 

[Lingham]

Makes sense. Thanks for answering!

I started splitting the crankcase yesterday but forgot I had to remove that brass gear for the oiler first. I read on this thread 262XP project (pic heavy) what Fredmc said:

So I will be trying to find the right thread iron pipe fitting today at Lowe's. I don't have a 3 jaw puller either so I may pick one up or just use some heat and a pair of vicegrips. The crankcase splitter I used on my dirtbike works fine. I got it here: Rocky Mountain ATV/MC.

My advice would be to use a rotary tool and cut the brass oil gear off. And get rid of it. The saw will oil on idle with it.
Get the plastic oil drive and the appropriate clutch drum. The plastic oil drive floats on the shaft and will only turn when the clutch engages the drum. I just finished going through this situation. I can get you part numbers, or you can find them in the newer IPL's of these saws. I had a short thread here on AS called, refurbing 262xp (I think) the member had taken some nice pictures of the plastic oil drive.

I do not know if there is a good reason for not doing what I am about to say but I went ahead and split the case with the brass gear on. You wreak the seal that you are going to change anyway. I may have got lucky in that it worked, I don't know.

Regards,

 

[dellaquila]

My advice would be to use a rotary tool and cut the brass oil gear off. And get rid of it. The saw will oil on idle with it.
Get the plastic oil drive and the appropriate clutch drum. The plastic oil drive floats on the shaft and will only turn when the clutch engages the drum. I just finished going through this situation. I can get you part numbers, or you can find them in the newer IPL's of these saws. I had a short thread here on AS called, refurbing 262xp (I think) the member had taken some nice pictures of the plastic oil drive.

I do not know if there is a good reason for not doing what I am about to say but I went ahead and split the case with the brass gear on. You wreak the seal that you are going to change anyway. I may have got lucky in that it worked, I don't know.

Regards,

What's the downside of oiling at idle other than the obvious mess? My saw typically doesn't sit idling very much since I only use it for firewood and property maintenance. If I'm not going to use it for a minute I just shut it off. Plus I'd rather not have to buy a new clutch drum.

I was wondering what would happen if I kept splitting with that gear on. I figured it would either push the gear off at the same time or just destroy the seal, but I wasn't sure. I may just do that since like you said, I'm replacing seals anyway. I still need to order bearings so I have a little time. I want to get it split so I can paint the crankcase though.

 

[SawTroll]

....... I want to get it split so I can paint the crankcase though.

I fail to see the point with painting that case, but people are different.......:msp_wink:

 

[Lingham]

What's the downside of oiling at idle other than the obvious mess? My saw typically doesn't sit idling very much since I only use it for firewood and property maintenance. If I'm not going to use it for a minute I just shut it off. Plus I'd rather not have to buy a new clutch drum.

I was wondering what would happen if I kept splitting with that gear on. I figured it would either push the gear off at the same time or just destroy the seal, but I wasn't sure. I may just do that since like you said, I'm replacing seals anyway. I still need to order bearings so I have a little time. I want to get it split so I can paint the crankcase though.

Re: oiling at idle

I agree with all your comments, I guess It depends how fussy we are lol.

I do not rebuild saws often. My feelings with the 262xp are that they are worth the time and money. I would have a tuff time to part ways with them and I would prefere to fix them again and again as needed. If I do need to fix that 262xp that I rebuilt, and that oil drive gear needs to be removed, it will come off with ease.

Cheers

 

[dellaquila]

I fail to see the point with painting that case, but people are different.......:msp_wink:

Ya know, I'll concede that painting the case won't make it cut faster or last longer, but I just have this complusion that, whenever I fix or rebuild something, I need to do it all the way. If that means taking a few extra days to get it bead or soda blasted and then painted, so be it. I'll be happy when it's all put back together and it looks better than when I started. Then I'll promptly take it outside and bury it in a big spruce that blew over in my yard over winter.

 

[dellaquila]

Re: oiling at idle

I agree with all your comments, I guess It depends how fussy we are lol.

I do not rebuild saws often. My feelings with the 262xp are that they are worth the time and money. I would have a tuff time to part ways with them and I would prefere to fix them again and again as needed. If I do need to fix that 262xp that I rebuilt, and that oil drive gear needs to be removed, it will come off with ease.

Cheers

Ok, I may check into it. I will still probably pull the brass gear off just in case I ever want to reinstall it, but I'm going to look for the plastic one. Is it just the new gear and clutch drum or are there other parts that need swapped? Part numbers would be great but if you don't have them handy I'll pull up the IPL later. I'll need to do it to order the parts anyway. Thanks for the suggestions by the way!

 

[SawTroll]

Ya know, I'll concede that painting the case won't make it cut faster or last longer, but I just have this complusion that, whenever I fix or rebuild something, I need to do it all the way. If that means taking a few extra days to get it bead or soda blasted and then painted, so be it. I'll be happy when it's all put back together and it looks better than when I started. Then I'll promptly take it outside and bury it in a big spruce that blew over in my yard over winter.

:msp_biggrin: That's all fine - like I said, people are different. My wiew is that if a saw (or other tool) has some scars from my fathers use (even someone elses), I would want to preserve those scars, as long as they don't interfere with function. They are part of the saws history.

Repainting etc. also tend to severely reduce any collectors value, if the item has any (hardly a consideration in this case though)......

 

[dellaquila]

:msp_biggrin: That's all fine - like I said, people are different. My wiew is that if a saw (or other tool) has some scars from my fathers use (even someone elses), I would want to preserve those scars, as long as they don't interfere with function. They are part of the saws history.

Repainting etc. also tend to severely reduce any collectors value, if the item has any (hardly a consideration in this case though)......

Ok, people are different. :smile2: My dad will get to see this saw this summer when my parents fly up for a visit. I'm sure he'll be surprised seeing the 262 in the same shape as when he bought it way back when. If he ever gives me his old guns, I promise not to restore them. :biggrin:

 

[rbmopar]

Why is the HDA87 more desirable?

Thanks,

Larger venturi on the 87. The 117 and 120 have a 15.08mm venturi, and the 87 has a 16.66mm venturi.

 

[Lingham]

Larger venturi on the 87. The 117 and 120 have a 15.08mm venturi, and the 87 has a 16.66mm venturi.

OK, Point taken Thank you.


I would like to post another question which stems from this topic, but certainly not intended for argument. Asking because I have saws with both these carbs.

The attached DLG report shows a picture of an older model 262xp (tool compartment rear handle) and we know HDA87 were used on them.

However the repot is dated 1997 and it clearly states the test saw had an HDA120 carb on it (makes sense).

That saw tested 3.6kw or 4.8hp, which we all can agree is impressive for a 62cc. Figuratively speaking, why would I not want the HDA120 carb when it can do that?

I think that the law of diminishing returns must come into play, with the size of the venturi, but I certainly do not know.

I have a printed hard copy of the 262xp owners manual, it specs power at 3.4kw or 4.6hp. This being the discrepancy which drives me nuts.

Could it be that owners manual data is based on an early model saw?

Regards,