Anybody have some closeup pics of a band roller?

[FJH]

You should start out by reading this thread. Then you will know that the top has a bead on it, and the bottom roller is flat.

Andy offered to get some pics but his roller is out in the shed and he's babysitting his wife who just had surgery not long ago.

I would say be patient, the pics will come, and in the mean time you can start by reading this thread from the start to the end.

I was going to say "Welcome to AS". But I think I should say, "Congrats on getting the courage to post!"

Yup read the hole thing except the parts where we go off track a bit!
Even that stuff is good reading!By the way I'll be a little bit getting on the bead roller to band roll conversion so don't wait on me for my impressions of the home build!I'll post when Ive tried it and give ya a yay or nay on it!

 

[Old Hilly]

Bob, I bought a section of band from a chap in Dorigo, NSW which had a lot of gullet cracks in it. This chap said the band was too thick for the diameter of the wheel it was running on. He had switched to a thinner band and thaat seemed to have solved his problem. my local saw-doctor has told me the same thing on a couple of occasions when I wanted wider blades for my 12" saw. Once I get over 3/4" wide I go up a gage in thicknedd and blades crack in the gullet very quickly.
Dennis.

 

[redprospector]

Ok, I finally got across town to my shed. Not much light, and all I had was my phone but here's what I got.

Andy

 

[FJH]

Thanx Andy you the man!
The bead roller I bought is almost identical to that just got to make the one wheel flat and some guide stuff to guide the blade thru straight!
I'll get on this in a week or two have some other pressing issues at the moment!

 

[TraditionalTool]

Ok, I finally got across town to my shed. Not much light, and all I had was my phone but here's what I got.

+1 to what FJH said, you the man, Andy!

Hard to see the guide too well...would love to see that 2nd to the last pic with more lighting.

 

[bobsreturn]

thanks for the photos quite helpfull , always a good idea to get a positive idea of whats needed for a project . what width blades can you roll with it? thank you Bob

 

[mountainlake]

What size blades are you guys running, I've never had a problem cutting straight without rolling with my 1-1/4 x 42 thousands blades even after 10 sharpenings. Some are under 1" before they break. Steve

 

[redprospector]

Ok, I was able to lighten the darkest pic's up a little.

Andy

 

[redprospector]

What size blades are you guys running, I've never had a problem cutting straight without rolling with my 1-1/4 x 42 thousands blades even after 10 sharpenings. Some are under 1" before they break. Steve

Steve,
I'm running 1 1/2" blades. Before I started rolling my blades I could get 8 or 10 sharpenings before they just weren't worth the trouble. Since I started rolling blades I've got blades that have probably 20 sharpenings on them. All blades will eventually fatigue and break. How many bd ft, or hours can you run a blade before it need's to be sharpened? Are you getting the most out of your blades?
If what you're doing is working for you, great.
I've spent a lot of time and money to find what works for me, and I'll be happy to share what I've learned with anyone.

Andy

 

[redprospector]

thanks for the photos quite helpfull , always a good idea to get a positive idea of whats needed for a project . what width blades can you roll with it? thank you Bob

Bob,
I'd have to dig out the paperwork to see what size blades they say. But I know it'll roll 1 1/4" & 1 1/2". Just looking at the setup I'd say it'll go up to probably 2" and down to whatever you could get under the bead without flattening out the set.

Andy

 

[bobsreturn]

thank you i run 2in blades that are stellite tipped .no setting needed , and apreciate your new photos , may make a roller ,as havent found anything i could buy local . cheers bob

 

[mountainlake]

I'm thinking the 1-1/4 blades get by just fine without rolling but wider blades need rolling. Steve

 

[Ted J]

That more better???

 

[redprospector]

I'm thinking the 1-1/4 blades get by just fine without rolling but wider blades need rolling. Steve

Could be.

Andy

 

[redprospector]

Hey Ted, you're better at this stuff than I am.

Andy

 

[Ted J]

Hey Ted, you're better at this stuff than I am.

Andy

Seems I'm getting better though.... I have youse guys pics to practice on :jawdrop: ... but I'm no magician either. LOL

Ted

 

[Old Hilly]

Do these rollers need to gave matching profiles, ie. one roller is concave, the other is convex, both with the same radius curve? I have in my junk box some self-aligning bearings that fit into a pressed metal housing. The outer shell of the bearing is convex and so would press down on the centre of the band and place no pressure on the outer edges. The only concern I have is for the other roller. Could it be made of something like hard rubber that would compress ever so slightly to take the shape of the steel roller? Varying the ammount of pressure applied to the steel roller would alter the depth of the indentation and so change the amount the blade was flattened, or perhaps over-flattened so that when the pressure is released the blade springs back to "flat", sort of like pushing a saw tooth just a fraction too far when you re-set the teeth.
Sounds good to me!

 

[TraditionalTool]

Do these rollers need to gave matching profiles, ie. one roller is concave, the other is convex, both with the same radius curve? I have in my junk box some self-aligning bearings that fit into a pressed metal housing. The outer shell of the bearing is convex and so would press down on the centre of the band and place no pressure on the outer edges. The only concern I have is for the other roller. Could it be made of something like hard rubber that would compress ever so slightly to take the shape of the steel roller? Varying the ammount of pressure applied to the steel roller would alter the depth of the indentation and so change the amount the blade was flattened, or perhaps over-flattened so that when the pressure is released the blade springs back to "flat", sort of like pushing a saw tooth just a fraction too far when you re-set the teeth.
Sounds good to me!

'Hilly,

I think what we have been able to gleam out of this thread is that the profile of the rollers is that the top one has a bead, and the bottom is flat. Several of the beading machines have a bead on top and matching profile for it, but the band roller is not like that, it's as shown in the pics.

The pics say it all, although hard to see, beggars can't be picky.:blush:

Seems that the bead rollers have what is needed by swapping top/bottom rollers with different sets. I was just looking at the Beading Tool on the Harbor Freight site. Odd that they call it a metal fabrication tool, because if you download the manual they call it a beading tool.

This is very similar to what FJH got in Canada.

The Harbor Freight model I linked to has a 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" bead. From the looks of the profile of the Cooks band roller, the bead is bigger. But I don't think that would matter as long as the bead was round in profile.

Andy, can you measure the width of the bead, and the height of the bead? I think I can see the pics there pretty good, but not clear how the guide and/or adjustment works to determine how much of the blade will run through the roller? Can you try to explain that? I'd like to know the sizes on those pics, like the total diameter of the rollers, the width of the rollers, and the height and width of the top bead portion.

Thanks for your help.

 

[redprospector]

Andy, can you measure the width of the bead, and the height of the bead? I think I can see the pics there pretty good, but not clear how the guide and/or adjustment works to determine how much of the blade will run through the roller? Can you try to explain that? I'd like to know the sizes on those pics, like the total diameter of the rollers, the width of the rollers, and the height and width of the top bead portion.

Thanks for your help.

I'll try to make time to get some measurements for you in the next few days.
The band roller is in a shed across town, so I can't just run out the door & get them, or I would.
The guide is just a fence (kinda like a tablesaw), the pedistal it sits on has a slotted hole with a bolt & wing nut for adjustment. You just determine which part of the band body you want to roll, and set the fence to where the bead is running on that part.

Andy

 

[TraditionalTool]

I'll try to make time to get some measurements for you in the next few days.
The band roller is in a shed across town, so I can't just run out the door & get them, or I would.
The guide is just a fence (kinda like a tablesaw), the pedistal it sits on has a slotted hole with a bolt & wing nut for adjustment. You just determine which part of the band body you want to roll, and set the fence to where the bead is running on that part.

Andy

Andy,

Ok, when you get over there. I know the feeling, my yard is 20 miles away so I can't just pop over there either. I am going there today though...

We're working on fixing my mud problem once and for all...