Anyone ever cracked a piston using a piston stop??

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I've had great luck using a cordless 3/8" impact, it has enough juice to loosen without busting things up, for stuck fasteners I use a little spray of PB blaster, stuff smells bad but does the job. Most of the stuff I work on is abused by others or stuff I dig out of the trash, so stuck fastners are the norm.
 
So.. how much would it have been to repair in the first place?

My local shop would have probably charged $300!

I'd be ahead paying $200 for the repaired saw! :laugh:


To replace bearings and seals in a 310, 1 1/2-2 hours at most. Parts around 65.00, labor around 75.00-100.00 depending on how fast you can get it done. He paid about 40.00-50.00 more than had he gotten it repaired in the first place.
 
LMAO thats great Thall. I picked up an 031 and a crapsman the other day for nill. poured gas in the crapsman and fires up third pull. i give it away. keep the stihl. the 31 cost me $50 for parts. all the thing needed was fuel lines and filter. badda bing beastly little saw that is smooth as a hot knife through butter.
 
Always use a little heat on these types of bolts and I usually soak them with penetrant for a few days first. A controlled impact will work better than a socket and breaker bar as the rotational forces that you put on the bolt with a lever can shear the head off where hammer blows from an impact wrench will release the corrosion bond.

This being said I don’t see where your story of manifold bolts relates to chainsaw clutches and why to use an impact wrench over the stihl indoctrinated method.
Don't use heat, you could damage the seals if you get it too hot.

Without getting too technical about it, the 'bang' from the impact sets up a higher frequency torsional force. It's usually more effective for releasing a stubborn fastener. Having said that, just because you have an impact doesn't mean you'll be successful. If it doesn't have enough power, it won't work. If the bond between threads is stronger than the shearing forces of the fastener or threads in the hole, well, you'll be cussin big time.
 
I just use an impact. Seems to be about the simplest thing to do. I don't see how it could hurt anything since the stress is just right there local and not being transfered through the bearing and up through the piston to a metal or rope stop.

My opinion,

Sam
 
After I closed my first shop up in the mid nineties, I worked at a shop in a neighboring town, and got laid off in the winter. Being stupid and not wanting
to file for unemployment, I applied for a maintenence position at the local Sylvania plant, and was told, that since I had no formal machinist school
training, that they would not hire me in that capacity, and they were not
hiring at the moment for the factory lines either, but I might stand a chance of getting on if I came to work there as a temp, so I did.
I busted my a ss there trying to make a good impression,and quickly made friends there with the maintenence guys, as this was a brand new line
going in, and there was a lot of down time, and I was of some help to them.

One night, one of the main gizmos locked up and the spindle that was locked
up was not in stock. I asked the guys how it was made, and suggested they may get it going by replacing the bearings, and they set about removing the spindle. all of the other temps were sent home for the night, I was allowed to
stay and clean up, etc.
I came back around and all of the maintenence guys were there around the
one bench, and they were taking turns trying to remove the bolt holding this
large aluminum cogged gear/pulley on and not having much luck. I swept around there so I could observe. All of them were new hires, and all had
a bright shiny new craftsman box and new tools that had never been dirty,
and the shift foremen were getting cranky.
While they were talking about how to hold this thing without damaging
it, I asked,"Any of you guys have an impact wrench?"
From their expressions, I knew that it was , NO.
I told them I might have mine in the truck and ran out to see.
I didn't, but went back in and asked if I could borrow their ratchet, and asked
for a rubber mallet or similar. Asked if I could tap on his ratchet, and 3-4 taps
later was threading the bolt out, handed him back his tools, grabbed my broom, and started sweeping off down the line, going sideways every now and
again to observe the crowd.
Makes me giggle thinking about it.





They never did hire me though......................

Nobody likes an ass I guess.......
 
LOL, good story. Impacts can be worth there weight in gold. I have a air 3/8", that works good usually. I have used the redneck-hammer and ratchet impact many times...... works good :)
 
I was tearing down another ms290 the other day, and it was too cold and
not worth warming the shop up, so I did one the old fasioned way on the kitchen table, with a t handle t-27 nutdriver and the scrench that came
with it. I did grab a deep well socket and hammer for the flywheel, but had it
apart in no time, just tapping the scrench to remove the clutch and flywheel nut, 2 or 3 taps each, just leave the plug in.
 
When you guys say plastic piston stop are you talking about the ones that look the same as the metal ones only there made of plastic? Look at my pics the one I'm talking about is on the bottom underneith the metal piston stop.:confused:
 
When you guys say plastic piston stop are you talking about the ones that look the same as the metal ones only there made of plastic? Look at my pics the one I'm talking about is on the bottom underneith the metal piston stop.:confused:

No, see picture below for the correct piston stop (correctly installed too).

attachment.php
 
Oh ok are the sides of that piston stop different sizes or are they both the same?

Yeah both are the same size. However there are two versions, one bent at 90 degree's the other about 45.

I take the 45 degree unit, heat one side and bend it to 90. No reason to have two different tools on my bench.
 
Sorry to be ignorant, but what type of situation would warrant using the 45 over the 90 and vise versa? Just curious because I just ordered the 45 version and am trying to learn as much as I can so I dont make this screw up ever again. Thanks for the help everyone.
 
Sorry to be ignorant, but what type of situation would warrant using the 45 over the 90 and vise versa? Just curious because I just ordered the 45 version and am trying to learn as much as I can so I dont make this screw up ever again. Thanks for the help everyone.

Depending on the saw and the angle of the opening. Most saws you'll use the 45 on. Several of the newer 4 mix will require the 90. Pretty much if the plug is at an angle to the cylinder, you'll be using the 45. If the plug is in line with the piston, 90.
 
Oh ok I appreciate that, I'll have to bend the one side to a 90 cause I have a few 4 mixes too. Is that tool made of nylon or fiberglass impregnated plastic so it doesnt just immediately melt into blah haha?
 
Man, I guess I'm still old fashioned. I still use worn out (out of service) prussic cord 1/4" static kernmantel threaded throught the plug hole. Yet to run into a problem with it, since it doesn't shed, and my ends are burned clean.

:confused:
 
I have personally never had a problem with using an impact wrench. My BIL on the other hand has broken a sack full of clutches with one. If you do use an impact turn it way down it dont take much.
 

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