Bar for a climbing saw

[robedic]

I'm looking for a top quality but light-weight 12" bar for my 335. I'm going to run 91 chain (the agressive one - not the anti-kickback version). Anyone have a bar recomendation?

 

[rahtreelimbs]

I've had really good luck with Bailey's Arbor Pro bars. I don't know who makes them for Bailey's. Pretty inexpensive too.

 

[Stumper]

I'll second rich's recommendation. For $13 how could you go wrong? I think they are made by Carlton.

 

[robedic]

Oops, I forgot there's another requirement... My 335 does not have a chain tensioning nut, so I have to use an Intenz bar. I know Husky and Oregon offer them. Does anyone else make them? If I buy from Oregon, which model would be both light weight and good quality?

 

[Ryan Willock]

robedic, oregon makes husky's bars so what differance would it make???

 

[rbtree]

robedic,

I dont know the model number, but the bars for 335's are unique in that they have an oil hole. Most other mini-saw bars rely on the upper hole where the chain adjuster tab fits.

I'd suggest getting the bar adjustment assembly from your dealer so you dont have to run the Intenz system. I dont feel it is very well designed.

Bailey's has bars for around $12-13 and sells Husky parts considerably below list.

 

[treeclimber165]

I will second Roger's comment. Buy the stinkin' adjuster for a couple bucks and use a regular bar. The Intenz bar only comes in one quality level, and it is not as good of a bar as the higher level Oregon bars. I'm using an Oregon Pro 91 and find it's better than the 'consumer grade' small bars that most saw shops carry.
And yes, Husky bars are made by Oregon.

 

[robedic]

My 335 came with a 14" Husky bar. I bought a 16" Oregon Pro 91 and it did come with Intenz. I agree it is a better bar, but way too heavy to give a balanced feel to the little saw. Next I want to try a 12" bar, so I can really compare all three lengths. While I believe the Pro 91 is Oregon's top of the line bar, it is heavier than most. Do you guys think the shorter length alone will offset the heavier weight bar, or should I get a light weight composit 12 incher?

 

[Tim Gardner]

I prefer an 020 with 16" bar. The 2 additional inches makes a big difference. Seems to balance out better. I don't know for sure but it might be because the gas tank is on the rear of the saw. I can not deal with the 335 gas tank. The handle gets in the way. I guess that is one of many reasons the 020 goes up in the tree and the 335 stays in the truck or is used as a ground saw.

 

[rahtreelimbs]

Interesting point here. I like using a 12" bar on my climbing saws. But, I know of several climbers that use a 16" bar. In their mind they are eliminating the need for another saw with a 16" bar. All comes down to personal preference.

 

[Tim Gardner]

The extra inches means I save my self a lot of climbing. I was on a 20-25' limbwalk in NC the other day with nothinig but my line to balance on. I was gald to have the extra 4". The moss that grows on those old oaks gets slippery when it rains. The less I have to go out the less I have to come back. An 020 handles a 16" bar just fine. If I get into big wood I send for the 046. I hope to get a MS260 with an 18" bar soon.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

I too like a 16" bar.
We have an 18" bar on an 026 that I would not use in a tree because if I cut up to 16" wood with my topping saw, then pull an 18" inch saw for the wood up to 18", what would that be? One or two more cuts before I need a 24" saw?
So I generally go from cutting with the topping saw, to cutting with an 046 with a 24" bar.
My saw can cut 16" logs, and when it's not in big wood, the extra length gives me reach. Reach is very important in climbing.
This thing about balance has me miffed. How is a saw with a 12" bar more balanced than one with a 14" bar? Once you are cutting, don't you want some weight in the front of the saw? My 046 is balanced and it's nose heavy, isn't it?
And while I'm ranting, what's the problem with the Intenz bars, specifically. Besides being much faster to adjust and chage chains, what's wrong with them? They last too long? I suppose you could argue that they are a little heavy.

 

[Tim Gardner]

I agree with Mike about reach. That is what my last post was about. But when I use a saw I don't stop cutting with it when the wood is larger in diameter than the lenth of bar. With an 18" 026 I would not need the 046 in the tree unless it is large diameter and then the 36" bar goes on the 046.

 

[Stumper]

I agree with Mike and Tim. (scary ain't it Mike) I've used 16" bars on climbing saws for the last 9-10 years. The extra length is useful and IMHO the saw's balance is improved by the longer bar.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

Originally posted by Tim Gardner
when I use a saw I don't stop cutting with it when the wood is larger in diameter than the lenth of bar. With an 18" 026 I would not need the 046 in the tree unless it is large diameter and then the 36" bar goes on the 046.

I am aware that you can cut wood larger than the bar, but why? I have cut with an 026, I have one, if you are cutting wood bigger than 18", it's time to wake up and smell the coffee. And if yo have a 3' bar on an 046, you must work alone, becuase I can't figure out what the other guy would do while waiting for you to get your cutting done.

If you are working down an 18" spar and useing a 16" bar, to notch and drop chunks, it takes at least 6 cuts and you need to reposition twice. That same notch and dropped chunk with an 24" bar takes no repositioning and three cuts, that's without even getting into the bigger saw cutting much faster.

I understand if it's for 1 cut, but come on...

 

[Tim Gardner]

Originally posted by Mike Maas
I am aware that you can cut wood larger than the bar, but why? I have cut with an 026, I have one, if you are cutting wood bigger than 18", it's time to wake up and smell the coffee. And if yo have a 3' bar on an 046, you must work alone, becuase I can't figure out what the other guy would do while waiting for you to get your cutting done.

If you are working down an 18" spar and useing a 16" bar, to notch and drop chunks, it takes at least 6 cuts and you need to reposition twice. That same notch and dropped chunk with an 24" bar takes no repositioning and three cuts, that's without even getting into the bigger saw cutting much faster.

I understand if it's for 1 cut, but come on...

What the he11 are you talking about? 6 cuts? Who taught you how to use a saw?

Does your crew come to a screeching halt if they do not have the 046 on the groung? If I had to use the long bar on the 046 that means real big wood. I will have 12' - 6" or larger logs pulled out. There is always something for the ground crew to be doing when a climber is blocking wood.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

Originally posted by Tim Gardner
What the he11 are you talking about? 6 cuts? Who taught you how to use a saw?

Let's see. We are not to bright or don't have the proper tools, so we are useing a saw that's too small. What normally would be done is to cut with a big enough saw from one side, making three cuts, a top cut, an undercut(these form the notch), and finally a backcut.
But because the saw is too little, we need to do each of the three cuts from both sides(3x2=6).

Originally posted by Tim Gardner
Does your crew come to a screeching halt if they do not have the 046 on the groung?

No, I just get one out of the truck. Although I can't imagine why we would not have already done that at the start of the job.
What do <B><I>you</I></B> do, cut with your topping saw? That would give the guys a nice break, and also something to laugh at, you cutting up a big log with a wee little baby saw, hehe.

Originally posted by Tim Gardner
I will have 12' - 6" or larger logs pulled out.

I don't know what this means, but if it's about birth control, pulling out doesn't work.

 

[Tim Gardner]

Originally posted by Mike Maas
Let's see. We are not to bright or don't have the proper tools, so we are useing a saw that's too small. What normally would be done is to cut with a big enough saw from one side, making three cuts, a top cut, an undercut(these form the notch), and finally a backcut.
But because the saw is too little, we need to do each of the three cuts from both sides(3x2=6).



No, I just get one out of the truck. Although I can't imagine why we would not have already done that at the start of the job.
What do <B><I>you</I></B> do, cut with your topping saw? That would give the guys a nice break, and also something to laugh at, you cutting up a big log with a wee little baby saw, hehe.



I don't know what this means, but if it's about birth control, pulling out doesn't work.

That still does not explain why you must make 6 cuts with a short bar. I don't have to. I guess you just have not figured out how to use a saw yet. It makes me laugh at people that have to go through extra steps.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

Please tell me, please.
If you do, I won't make fun of you for two full days.

Do you skip the notch and just go round and round the tree? Do you only cut hollow trees? Please tell me.

 

[Tim Gardner]

Originally posted by Mike Maas
Please tell me, please.
If you do, I won't make fun of you for two full days.

Do you skip the notch and just go round and round the tree? Do you only cut hollow trees? Please tell me.

Mike,

You are just being a maas hole. You have been in the tree business long enough to know how to make a face cut and back cut on a spar with a short bar. I hope you have gotten your fix. Besides I have had a great time laughing at you anyway.