Bar for a climbing saw

[Kneejerk Bombas]

The only way I know is to attack from different sides. This means a bunch of cuts. What am I missing?

 

[rbtree]

Hmm, when the bar is only 2 inches smaller than the log, it is easy to make the cuts without repositioning....

at least for me ...and Tim...

Now any bigger wood,, and I'll always want a longer bar.


As a side note, my 346XP-G is so hungry, I may put a 24 incher on it for some heavy duty bucking job. Gotta love the light weight, compact package, and amazing power. My guess is, it would pull a 28 easily-in soft woods.

Okay, you two settle down now!!:angel:

 

[Tim Gardner]

I like to cut 90* from the direction of fall when the spar is under 2’. When they get to 2’ or larger I will position myself between the direction of fall and the location for the face cut to make the face. That helps me make sure it will fall in the ideal direction. So I guess I do have to reposition to make the back cut.

Keep in mind that a face cut is usually no more than 1/3 deep as the spar is in diameter. This portion of the spar is not as wide. I can lever in the bar to the depth I need and still have a proper face. Same for the back cut. I do not see a need to cut from both sides of the spar.

 

[Kevin]

what's the problem with the Intenz bars, specifically

1. If they get wet with snow I have a feeling they might freeze up.
2. It`s rack and pinion, your gears are engaged or the system has the possibility to move until the gears engage.
3. They look funny.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

Tim, I get it. the log is just slightly larger so you cut a shallow notch and drag the backcut across. OK I won't make fun of you, two days.

Kevin, It was nice to meet you at TCI, glad you made it back home ok.
I never had my Intenz bar freeze. I suppose it could happen in a rare case. If so just hit it with some heat for a few seconds. A stock adjuster could have problems too.
The rack and pinion thing confused me, but the mechanism is held in place by presure from the lug nuts that mount the bar. Tension won't change unless the nuts come loose.
The only difference in looks is a little adjuster hole on the bar. Look at the picture of the bars.

 

[Kevin]

Mike, Nice to meet you as well.
I was disappointed that we didn`t have a plan to get everyone together for a social.
I did get to learn some new driving skills while visiting Wisconsin.
I went over to the Sherrill booth and bought a new bull rope after seeing that video at the Walls rope booth.

The bar just doesn`t seem rugged enough for a pro bar, it was designed for the consumer market.
I`ve never used one and my comments are only speculative in nature.
I had the dealer replace the Intenz bar with the standard configuration and I`m happy with it.
Because of its size my saw goes with me on the snow machine where the bar could easily get wet and sit for an hour or two before I had to use it again.
With the standard system I can get at all the moving parts, the Intenz adjustment system is internal and it could cause me some grief.

Ever tighten the bar nuts down after tensioning the chain without raising the bar while you tighten the chain?
Even though the bar nuts are tight the chain will get slack in it as the bar comes up.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

There is no need to raise the bar as you tighten with the Intenz bar. The presure is applied to the studs, therefore chain tension does not change with raising or lowering the bar the way it does with factory adjusters.

The Intenz bars come in different quality, just like other bars.

 

[Kevin]

The Intenz bars come in different quality, just like other bars.

I never bothered checking until you mentioned it but you`re right they do have a Pro Intenz.