Bar length and saw power

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This may be a dumb question but I am not a pro logger. What exactly is a widow maker?
Btw, glad you came out of that alive. That was a nasty wound.
 
This may be a dumb question but I am not a pro logger. What exactly is a widow maker?
Btw, glad you came out of that alive. That was a nasty wound.
You don't have to be a logger to have a widow maker. Just means when you do something or have something that happens to you that should have made your wife a widow.
 
I see. Then I had one about 10 days ago. I was dropping a double trunk ash. I notched the front like I'm supposed to but when I was making the back cut to drop it one half broke loose from the other and came at me. It pinched my McCulloch so I abandoned it and dove out of the way. My uncle was there and said it just missed my legs as I dove out if the path of the tree. It twisted my bar, kinked my chain and broke the handle off my saw.
 
i recognize those pics! even the second one cause i got put in your quarter after you left lol. that was a hairy spot on that ledge aye. at least i think that looks similar lol
Hey Shane, srry I missed your post somehow? Yes you are right it does look like one that I didn't get to on my last afternoon as I moved over to make room for you. I figured I was going to get it but I worked hikers left of that to open up for about 6-8 nice Cedar that were needing to go that way that I didn't get to either. The tree that looks familiar that you speak of I remember clearly as I had a verbal evaluation on it as to how I would approach it with Chris.
 
While it is a good thing to watch for especially if to long of bar for you is say 24" in 20" wood there is the fact that a long bar doesn't kick back anywhere near as hard. Little bar with big power behind it is where the danger is. With the 36" I hardly ever get a kick back and when I do it's very controllable. Since I switch the stihl lights I find they kick back quite a bit harder then a heavy bar though. If I'm cutting firewood I will use a 24" heavy bar as that gets me whatever I need and I prefer not to deal with anything bigger anyways. At work I run the 36" cause while you may not need it for a lot of things it would be kinda silly to carry something smaller but need bigger on something throughout the day. 36" is the standard for forestry work I think. Some jobs a 36 ain't enough and you need a 42. When I compare my work to lots of others the wood here is big and to limb a guy always walks the log limbing. Back east and many other places where the wood is small guys walk along side the log limbing cause the wood is to small to have good balance on. Walking alongside the log I understand a shorter bar but stand on log you won't even make it through your first tree without wishing you had a longer bar. Also bucking on a steep grade gives you that reach you sometimes need to stay out of the bite during a cut. Heck, I use the reach tickling holding wood staying far away as possible from the stump. Sometimes you gotta get back in there and at times there is serious chair potential.
You have obviously spent time at this as have the guys/ company I'm involved with. My tip was more for the weekend chainsaw users that read a post & possibly enthusiasm over comes proficiency & understanding of possible problems, was just to bring it to notice
 
I believe long bars rob power. any rotating mass wants to be round and balanced. when you force that mass out of shape.......like the track on a snowmobile, it pulls on the ends and tries to lift in the middle, and robs power. just my opinion.........
 
The additional friction has to dissipate energy, and the extra mass has to slow acceleration (like a flywheel). The issue is how does that compare to the energy used in cutting wood? I think it is a very small fraction, but maybe someone has some data.
 

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