chadihman
Addicted to ArboristSite
I've always run Stihl orange bottle bar oil. Does well but I was wondering if a lower viscosity oil would allow the saws oiler to pump a little faster or will this have no effect on pumping volume?
the blue bottle of stihl flows faster ,the winter stuff ,i use it for millingI've always run Stihl orange bottle bar oil. Does well but I was wondering if a lower viscosity oil would allow the saws oiler to pump a little faster or will this have no effect on pumping volume?
I've been using Wal-Mart bar and chain oil for years, it works great, and it's made by the same companies.I've always run Stihl orange bottle bar oil. Does well but I was wondering if a lower viscosity oil would allow the saws oiler to pump a little faster or will this have no effect on pumping volume?
Husky oil does have more astringent than most oils, this is true.I run the husky oil in my stihls ,seems stickier to me ,just do not run the cheap red stuff ,your white plastics will change color after a while on a stihl
In principle, this is true, however there is a resistance factor that exists even though you wouldn't notice it.I was thinking the pump would move the same amount of oil thick or thin unless it's to thick to get to the pump.
The engine usually warms the oil up enough ,the thicker stuff would actually stay on the chain better for lube ,if you are racing run atf ,less bar resistance ,thinner stuff is going to fly off the tip easierI was thinking the pump would move the same amount of oil thick or thin unless it's to thick to get to the pump.
I'm not going to doubt you you've been doing something I've never done. My guess is a saw would be ok running used engine oil if it was collected in a clean jug and if the oil was changed at recommended intervals. After all that oil was run through a filter over and over again. I just don't think I could bring myself to pour black oil in a saw.Posted this reply in firewood section earlier today.
Well up until 2 yrs. ago I was a faller for 30 yrs. and my 1st choice for best overall chain oil is definitely used motor oil. I can't speak for anything over an 18in. bar though. I had the option of using the so called real chain oil but didn't. Anytime I had to use the factory stuff I could immediately notice a lot more chain/bar noise,rattling chattering. I also noticed after I started using so called waste oil that bar life increased dramatically.Believe me you run a saw day in and day out you notice every little change ,noise etc. The 2 other guys on our crew noticed the same thing and one of them is a member here as well. My reasoning is what higher quality oil is there than good qual. motor oil,isn't
it designed for high temps.? Flame away but the proof is in the pudding and I've prob. did as much falling ,running chainsaws as most on here. Keeping in mind I said 18in. bar max is all I can speak to.
It also causes oil molecules to contract or pull together, as well as molecules similar in electrical bonding to oils, like organic tissue.Astringent is a substance which causes biological tissue to contract or pull together. http://www.wisegeek.org/what-is-an-astringent.htm. What is the astrigent doing in bar oil?
In principle, this is true, however there is a resistance factor that exists even though you wouldn't notice it.
I'm not going to doubt you you've been doing something I've never done. My guess is a saw would be ok running used engine oil if it was collected in a clean jug and if the oil was changed at recommended intervals. After all that oil was run through a filter over and over again. I just don't think I could bring myself to pour black oil in a saw.
That might work on an old saw with a manual oiler, but I wouldn't put those chemicals in my automatic oiler modern seals and close tolerance metals.A trick a faller told me one time is if the oiler feels like it is getting stingy ,run a tank of mix in the bar oil ,it will flush any gunk/sawdust buildup out of there ,not sure how your jeans would smell doing that though ,have never tried it myself .
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