No greasing after each tank but I do flip the bar. I’d like a bar with sealed bearings like Stihl’s bars.
Sealed? Or just non greasable and bar oil alone provides the lubrication for the bearing?
No greasing after each tank but I do flip the bar. I’d like a bar with sealed bearings like Stihl’s bars.
No greasing after each tank but I do flip the bar. I’d like a bar with sealed bearings like Stihl’s bars.
Sealed? Or just non greasable and bar oil alone provides the lubrication for the bearing?
No grease gun needed.
The average person doesn’t even know what that hole is for. My oil empties at the same rate as the gas, so it’s getting plenty of bar oil.
Yeah... If the bearings can be easily greased- they need grease, and oil isn't enough.Not sealed then eh?
Yeah... If the bearings can be easily greased- they need grease, and oil isn't enough.
I was referring to the OP's particular situation.Although I grease bar tips if there is a point to do so from- I do not believe in general running that all bars need tip sprockets greased and bar oil is not enough to keep them in good condition.
What I do believe is incorrect chain tension will make short work of them.
I was referring to the OP's particular situation.
Grease is much cheaper than a new bar- if your current choice of bar can be easily greased, it's worth a try to see if it extends the life of the nose. If it's NOT easily greased, then it's not worth trying. It wasn't clear to me in your comment a few posts back if your bar is easily greased or not.It seems folks think that bar noses should last forever if treated how they think they should be treated. I guess bars with replaceable noses are made for novices who ruin them with too little grease and chains too tight. A pro on the other hand can make the $35 woodland pros and Oregons last indefinitely. The high end bars are for the newbies.
It isn't that hard to do. The slot needs lengthened which can be done precisely on a milling machine or some other way like drill a hole where you want it to end and then hack saw to that point and finish with a file. Then you need to drill the adjuster and oil input hole, or holes if you intend on flipping it. Stay 3/8" or more from any spot welds with your holes. You need use the 3005 class of Stihl bars. An issue is for the so called 16" Stihl uses a 55 drive llink loop and unless you have a 7 tooth drive sprocket the 56 (sensible as it is divisible by 4) puts the tail excessively far out.It'd be nice if a Stihl bar could be modded for the ea4300F, but I'm not versed on the 4300 nor Stihl bars.
They don’t make one for the saw being discussed
I been running all my saws for decades commercially and have not greased the bar sprockets the bars wear out before the bearings. Many on here will tell you the same thing. I don't grease the Clutch bearings either .Yeah... If the bearings can be easily greased- they need grease, and oil isn't enough.
Stopped greasing bar tips years ago. Plenty of bar oil gets in there. Nothing is sealed. Heck if stingy piling stihls don't have grease holes no other mfg needs to worry about greasing the bar tip.I been running all my saws for decades commercially and have not greased the bar sprockets the bars wear out before the bearings. Many on here will tell you the same thing. I don't grease the Clutch bearings either .
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