Benefits to adding a dual port or bark box muffler

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Heck no.
I know where theres a few new 44 46 jugscon the shelf colkecting dust I might buy .

I collect oem 44 46 stuff aswell have stash of 66 parts in hiding.

Have zero husky parts
 
A slant fin you mean? I thought I had one but its dissapeard
 
Got one fresh new just broke in 500I coming from a local that's about to get lighter and louder, again. He already added the noise maker front cover so it's not my decision but we might revisit the stock cover and another side outlet. It's being built to carry the 28 or swap out to the 36 when needed. Fast won't be part of this package and loud isn't my decision here. If it were me the front cover would be gone. Triple outlets shouldn't be needed here.
How much weight will it actually lose? We could have a contest on guessing how much.
 
I dont actually know where the term came from or even if the slant fin Was a 044 thing.

Any cylinder will fit on a 10mm saw but you cant run the 12mm 44 and 46 pistons.
10mm is great saw but is limited on aftermarket and oem parts
 
Looks like what I left after my second cup of joe
Sheeet, I can get +20% hp by just running without a muffler front cover and everyone for 3 square miles will hear that extra power. The problem is it takes away a % of torque across the powerband except where it is narrowed at the very top. When it gets bogged down out of that narrow band it looses its chain speed. Then there is the tinnitus, trying to sleep and the ears keep ringing driving you into madness with constant requests to others to repeat their words.
 
Will give the ears a good ringing bleeding tomorrow
 
I dont actually know where the term came from or even if the slant fin Was a 044 thing.

Any cylinder will fit on a 10mm saw but you cant run the 12mm 44 and 46 pistons.
10mm is great saw but is limited on aftermarket and oem parts
Sorry to OP for a slight derail...

I'm finding that out for stock replacement parts. Might end up just going with a Meteor 10mm top end kit. I removed the jug last night and it looks okayish. But the piston has some scoring I don't particularly like and want to replace. This saw has got some miles on it.

Gary
 
Sorry to OP for a slight derail...

I'm finding that out for stock replacement parts. Might end up just going with a Meteor 10mm top end kit. I removed the jug last night and it looks okayish. But the piston has some scoring I don't particularly like and want to replace. This saw has got some miles on it.

Gary
Oh I dont care. Many threads go back and forth here. It is what it is
 
I read somewhere that you want to limit the exit port to 60 percent of the actual exhaust port. I would love to here what you guys consider appropriate. If it's to open it can cause a lean condition by removing it's ability to scavenge. Is this thinking correct?
 
I read somewhere that you want to limit the exit port to 60 percent of the actual exhaust port. I would love to here what you guys consider appropriate. If it's to open it can cause a lean condition by removing it's ability to scavenge. Is this thinking correct?
A chainsaw muffler doesn't scavenge.
Opening a muffler will change carb tuning along with many other things.
The testing done years ago by Timberwolf suggested that HP rose with exhaust opening, buy that the gain diminished after a certain point. That was with I believe a Ms260.
 
I just finished this one for my 500i, but I have not had a chance to take it out for a run yet. It’s just the stock cover with a 5/8” od stainless tube welded in.
 

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I build my own dual port covers for my rear handle Stihls...they're reminiscent of a bark box, but have smaller outlets for noise reduction. They're still loud AF, but not as obnoxious as a bark box. The 462R I run at work does have a genuine bark box, but I welded a piece of sheet metal over part of the outlet. The rest of my saws get enlarged stock outlets, including my climbing saws.

A chainsaw muffler doesn't scavenge.
Opening a muffler will change carb tuning along with many other things.
The testing done years ago by Timberwolf suggested that HP rose with exhaust opening, buy that the gain diminished after a certain point. That was with I believe a Ms260.

Yep, chainsaw mufflers aren't tuned pipes like on a dirt bike or a race saw. When I mod a saw muffler, clearing the exhaust gasses is one of my main priorities...compromised by how much noise I want to put up with.
 
Stock mufflers are designed to retain heat to reduce hydrocarbon emission levels (epa driven ) . They do not assist within an form of scavaging . Harmonics & blowback pulses from a properly designed tuned pipe induce stuffing the cylinder during exhaust port opening to better ensure complete burning of the fuel charge . The only positive attribute to stock mufflers other than being lite is noise attenuation & providing a form of back pressure during combustion cycle just as the exhaust port cracks open .There is benefits of front exhaust flow from the stock muffler modification stub to that of a side stub modified muffler . I find that a short degree of blowdown & a front discharge muffler increases rpm & horsepower gain where as side discharge muffler & longer degree of blowdown rate enhances available midrange torgue values . Strato & reed valve saws really wake up & run significantly cooler with a proper muffler modification !
 

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