Best saw to buy for firewood?

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EchoRomeoCharlie

EchoRomeoCharlie

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Fast chains on lightweight, powerful saws with short bars = EXTREME kickback. Especially with short rakers. Scary for limbing.

my 5105 with an 8 pin and 16" bar showed that tendency, so I went back to a 7.

jftr

Yeah, this would just be for fun, not for actual work. Controlled conditions. You know....for science!
 
short10320

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In order to utilize the 20 on a larger saw you will need to get a stihl or adapter plates/rings for the other brands, sometimes this means loosing some adjustability of the chain, and sometimes you need to notch the bar to make the stock chain for it work.
Just something to consider.
Oh ya true didnt think about that. I'll just pass it on to the brother in law for his saw he only has a 18 on his.
 
chipper1

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I know I'd like to see the difference in hand than on shelf with numbers to compare
The 391 will pull a 24 just fine, the 261 would with a very light hand, but it's not designed with that in mind and won't oil it like the 391 will.
The 261 is designed for professionals who have more than one saw to get a specific job done(limbing smaller bucking) and it has a much narrower power band than a similar home owner saw. If you can keep it in that power band they run great, running long bars limits the ability to keep it there, especially for a new user. The 391 with a sharp 20" will just run like it was meant too cut with a 20 or larger, because it is.
 
chipper1

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I didn't hear any complaints from ours this fall. Well other than where's chipper?:laugh: Maybe the homebrew that a member brought kept the natives from getting restless.:rock:
He was talking about advertising free wood on craigslist, then I said what you quoted, you answer those type of ads don't you :laugh:.
You know I wanted to be there, and I was 1:45 closer at the inlaws, it just wasn't happening this yr. Is there a date for next yr yet.
 
farmer steve

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He was talking about advertising free wood on craigslist, then I said what you quoted, you answer those type of ads don't you :laugh:.
You know I wanted to be there, and I was 1:45 closer at the inlaws, it just wasn't happening this yr. Is there a date for next yr yet.
GTGoween tentative. :surprised3:
 
Remle

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Bottom line is that any good saw in the 60-100cc range is more than adequate for gathering firewood. A smaller saw than that and your probably working it too hard. Bigger than 100cc and you’re using a diesel truck for a trip to the grocery store. Personally, I’d look for a bar between 18 and 32 inches depending on the size of the saw. 20-28” is ideal in my book and I’d rather buy a used pro saw than a new consumer grade saw.

A few years ago I used to be able to find old Homelites. McCullochs and Pioneers for under $100 on Craigslist. Parts were a little difficult to find, but those big old saws were still a great deal. These days, you may as well pay $200 more and get a Stihl or Husky. The prices on those old saws have skyrocketed, but the parts are still hard to find. You won’t have any problem finding parts for an MS460 however.
 
drf255

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Too many pages to go through here, but for 20-36” oak trees I don’t see how the 261 was the saw to recommend. I guess it could run a 20” 325 bar if it needed to.

A good used 044 would probably fit the bill better for the OP. Simple in design and more likely to live a long time trouble free.

As much as I do very much like the worry free tuning of the MT system, I don’t see the point of it for a seasoned person that knows how to tune a saw. It’s just another thing that can break.

M-Tronic is the greatest thing since sliced bread until it stops working, which is a rarity. But when it does, it’s a nightmare.
 
EchoRomeoCharlie

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Too many pages to go through here, but for 20-36” oak trees I don’t see how the 261 was the saw to recommend. I guess it could run a 20” 325 bar if it needed to.

A good used 044 would probably fit the bill better for the OP. Simple in design and more likely to live a long time trouble free.

As much as I do very much like the worry free tuning of the MT system, I don’t see the point of it for a seasoned person that knows how to tune a saw. It’s just another thing that can break.

M-Tronic is the greatest thing since sliced bread until it stops working, which is a rarity. But when it does, it’s a nightmare.

My opinion....first, most people overestimate the size of wood they will be cutting 'on average'. More than likely, the average size will be well within the 261's capabilities. Second, nobody (that cuts firewood a lot) truly ever runs a 1 saw approach forever. The 261 is a great 'small' saw in a two or three saw set, and it's the only pro saw in his budget that makes sense to have. IMO, the 362 is a better 'one saw' approach, but then you almost have to make the jump to the 661 or performance is too close, and that's a big jump.

I might be biased, but I think the 261/462 is the best two saw setup going right now. If you need another the 661 is a good jump from the 462. Those three can pretty much cut any tree in North America.
 

Evan

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A saw running in hard wood.

I'd probably recommend any 70cc class saw dont care what brand. I'd even recomend used.400-600 gets one and is more capable then the new junk in the 400 price range.

I often would rather limb and cut small stuff with 24-28" bar because I can reach more without bending over.

I've had a 50cc saw the last 8 years or so as my only saw and man I got say I missed the versatility of the 70cc saws. I just cut fir and pine in idaho.

I was nuts for letting my bigger saws go. If I'm ever down to a one saw plan again it will be a 70cc with 28.
 

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