OK, that sounds logical.
.... but it still doesn't solve the issue of several days down time, with the damp towel and plastic bag method!
That's what the wedge is for!
Best Splitting Axe - Opinions?
- Thread starter BrentS
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That's what the wedge is for!
Finland
ArboristSite Member
OK, that sounds logical.
.... but it still doesn't solve the issue of several days down time, with the damp towel and plastic bag method!
I suppose you do not work 24 / 7. There are also nights in between. The handle is so tight in my invention, that so far the blade and the shaft have been together without the problem you stated earlier. In some cases when my product has been in a dry showroom for a long time, there have bee some small loosening. The shaft is made of totally dry wood, so that most probably the next environment where it is, is definitely moister. This means that the connection will be tighter.
"I also thought about that - one of the reasons that I have been a bit critical to his claims in public, instead of discussing it in pms first. "
If you read carefully my writings before, you will not find any such sentence, where I have said " BUY THIS AXE"
I have never told that. It is totally an other story what kind of image you make in your mind.
I read this site and took part to it with my own ideas how I have solved them in purpose to help you. You do not have to buy this axe.
I am still willing to answer to your questions in case they are relevant. I am not going to worry about all the problems in the world.
I have a lot to give you, the choice is yours.
Best regards
Heikki:computer:
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Well, here's my collection. I am obviously an axe-tart. I have AAD, or whatever the CAD equivalent is.
I've never had a problem with the heads coming loose - one of the few advantages of having a rather damp garage.
I've never had a problem with the heads coming loose - one of the few advantages of having a rather damp garage.
BrentS
ArboristSite Lurker
Well, I am no longer without a maul.......my wife wanted to surprise me for my birthday and got me a 12lb Collins Mega Maul.........it's got a 30" steel handle and weighs a TON. It feels like you are holding a metal pipe with an anvil welded to it over your head.......I tried splitting a couple of pieces with it, however it definitely needs to be sharpened. It doesn't come with any kind of edge on it. I tried it on a partially dry piece of locust, it came down with a massive THUNK and made a 1" deep wedge-shaped gouge in the wood. That's it. Time to wear out a grinding wheel! I guess it'll be fine for the really big stuff, however it's definitely not something I'm going to use on a regular basis. I'm leaning towards the Fiskars Super Splitter, after reading all the info given on this thread.
Thanks Guys-
Brent
Thanks Guys-
Brent
It's been my experience, that, contrary to what I thought before I got that experience, the big, heavy, massive mauls really don't work as well as the splitting axes such as the Fiskar's. I certainly haven't tried everything, and the Fiskar's is the only example of its type I've tried, so my experience is limited in some ways. However, it appears to me that the design [profile] of the splitting head, whatever tool it is, is at least as important, if not more so, than the mass of the head. I have an 8-lb. maul that will sometimes actually bounce up from the top of a round, no matter how hard I swing it. On the other hand, the Fiskar's has never done so. Neither does my regular double-bit axe, and I've pretty much put the maul away, probably forever. The lighter Fiskar's does a better job--it just does--than the big maul. Now, I can stick the maul into a round, then use a sledge to hammer it in and it will usually work. However, that is a lot of physical effort to do the same job a Fiskar's-like tool will do without the sledge and hammering the darn thing thru the round. There is probably a reason from physics that this is the case, something to do with the way the Fiskar's is shaped and the way the energy is transferred to the actual splitting of the round.
[I haven't tried to reshape the profile of the maul with a grinder, perhaps that would make it work better..... I am really not interested it the labor, the Fiskar's was $39 at Bailey's, geez.]
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SWE#Kipp
Addicted to ArboristSite
The " husky brand" is not Gränsfors they have there axes made by Wetterling which are very good hand made axes but not as well made as the Gränsfors and the handles are one those things ,,,
never had a handle get loose on the Gränsfors axes don't think i had on any of my wood handle ones but i store in a cool place when not in use and oil them once a year !!
I like the feel of wooden handle so for me it's well worth the extra job to wipe them over with a oily cloth
SWE#Kipp
Addicted to ArboristSite
Gypo Logger
Timber Baron
Well, here's my collection. I am obviously an axe-tart. I have AAD, or whatever the CAD equivalent is.
I've never had a problem with the heads coming loose - one of the few advantages of having a rather damp garage.
What's the one in the middle, and how much does it weigh? Is the handle a 36 or 32?
Thanks,
Gypo
SawTroll
Information Collector
SWE#Kipp
Addicted to ArboristSite
The one in the middle is a Gränsfors splitting maul weight is 3,2kg and the handle is 80cm !
SawTroll
Information Collector
Close to 32" then!
Gypo Logger
Timber Baron
32" would be too dangerous unless the guy using it is under 5'2" or stand with his feet 5' apart.
Gypo
SawTroll
Information Collector
That depends on what is under the spitting object!
I usually use an about 24" stub under the splitting object, and use steel toed chainsaw boots when splitting.
Gypo Logger
Timber Baron
SawTroll! Real men don't use splitting blocks except to make kindling!
Using a 24" block only loses you 24" of swing.:greenchainsaw:
Gypo
SawTroll
Information Collector
I see how you think, but I believe it depends on your hight, relative to the handle, and how high the "target" is?
Anyway, I don't want my axe to hit the ground when the split is done.
What doesn't split pretty easily, I leave to a chainsaw for noodling - I love to do that!
nanuk
ArboristSite Guru
I got two favorites
1) the neighbours... when he's using it to split my wood
2) an 8 lb maul with full cheeks. I reshaped mine just a bit to round it out, cause it was too flat.
I think most general purpose axes are made with to thin cheeks, or none. Even works are some that are concave! And they don't even make good felling axes.
1) the neighbours... when he's using it to split my wood
2) an 8 lb maul with full cheeks. I reshaped mine just a bit to round it out, cause it was too flat.
I think most general purpose axes are made with to thin cheeks, or none. Even works are some that are concave! And they don't even make good felling axes.
shovelhead11
ArboristSite Lurker
I see how you think, but I believe it depends on your hight, relative to the handle, and how high the "target" is?
Anyway, I don't want my axe to hit the ground when the split is done.
What doesn't split pretty easily, I leave to a chainsaw for noodling - I love to do that!
For me, using a block to split wood is much easier on my back. And I don't want my axe/maul hitting the ground either.
Eric Modell
ArboristSite Operative
Gypo the short handle sharp mauls are great to use at the wood pile, on a block. The heavier long handle American styles maul works well for me in the woods with the rounds on the ground.
Gypo Logger
Timber Baron
Yes, I see the utility of both methods now and the two different handle lengths.
90% of my splitting has been in the bush right where the blocks were cut using a 6#maul with 36" handle.
John
SawTroll
Information Collector
:agree2: exactly!
