Bought a new Poulan Pro 5020 to see what there about

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You guys are making $40 for a couple of new LPX chains sound real inexpensive.

To hear them tell it.....

The main thing with the V72 chain is to keep up with the rakers as you go, don't wait and have to take a bunch off at one time. If I have to take them down a lot at one time, a grinder makes real short work of it. A chain grinder that is not a belt sander or a 4" hand held.. :ices_rofl:

I would much rather deal with the Oregon safety chain that comes on the 5020 then what comes on the homeowner Stihls..

Stihl safety chain (Custom).JPG
 
Is that chainsaw chain or pull cord for a lamp?

Mark, can you throw some pics up of how to deal with the depth guides? As soon as I threw my chain, I put my LPX on there and didn't look back. The bent and gouged chain catcher suggested I would need to sharpen the original one.
 
Is that chainsaw chain or pull cord for a lamp?

Mark, can you throw some pics up of how to deal with the depth guides? As soon as I threw my chain, I put my LPX on there and didn't look back. The bent and gouged chain catcher suggested I would need to sharpen the original one.

No I don't have the instructions, there posted on the Oregon website though.
 
I don't mind the chain new but regular chains just seem to cut better. I haven't tried to grind a Vanguard chain yet but have on other anti kickback chains and they always cut better. It seems to me that with the fold over if you grind the it off it would be too aggressive unless you ground the teeth a bit to get a closer depth?

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
 
I am always astonished at the complaints so often proclaimed with safety chain. You either get the impression no one can use a file or the file's used are long past their peak sharpness. Two to three swips and there is no problem anymore with the safety links. And after that they get a swip with every sharpening.

7
 
Yeah a good file helps. But the rolled over rakers have lots of meat to take off. Like I said they are a ok chain. Only reason I have 1 of 2 left is cause they came with bars I bought. I send my money on stihl or carlton cause its what I like and had good luck with them. My determining factors of what I look at in a chain is how much stretch they get and how they hold a edge. Price isn't a big factor cause a chain pays itself off before the first touch up
 
Just bought a none running 5020 off ebay, 50 shipping and 30 for the saw from a guy in Puerto Rico. I have a craftsman pro 50cc and had the other craftsman version of the 5020 and my experience was rather disappointing, they struggled cutting through pine 20 inch diameter, I had to constantly pull out of the cut to get the chain spinning again. I ended up just fixing my ry10532 with a lawn mower muffler to finish cutting tree. A 50cc strato with a 20 inch bar should be able to out cut a 40cc starto with the same bar and chain combo.
 
Obviously something is wrong. No way in the world would a generic 40cc saw out cut a generic 50cc saw in larger wood. There is a lot what might be wrong, begining with not sharp chain, wrong chain, pushing too hard too slipping clutch etc.

7
 
Just bought a none running 5020 off ebay, 50 shipping and 30 for the saw from a guy in Puerto Rico. I have a craftsman pro 50cc and had the other craftsman version of the 5020 and my experience was rather disappointing, they struggled cutting through pine 20 inch diameter, I had to constantly pull out of the cut to get the chain spinning again. I ended up just fixing my ry10532 with a lawn mower muffler to finish cutting tree. A 50cc strato with a 20 inch bar should be able to out cut a 40cc starto with the same bar and chain combo.

I'm not clear on why you purchased a non-runner 5020 for $80.00 total if you had bad experiences with the Craftsman version. Was the tree 20" diameter, or 20" across? Did you have the 20" bar buried and were you leaning on it? Was the bar getting pinched?

Obviously something is wrong. No way in the world would a generic 40cc saw out cut a generic 50cc saw in larger wood. There is a lot what might be wrong, begining with not sharp chain, wrong chain, pushing too hard too slipping clutch etc.

7

Plus one.
 
A Ryobi RY10532 is basically a GZ400 - with a muffler mod it's a ripping little saw (I'm not sure if a lawn mower muffler counts :confused::eek:). While both are strato the engine architecture of the Ryobi is more advanced, with quad closed transfers that have more of a curved path vs. the straight dual transfers of the 5020. Anyway, the GZ400/4000 family saws will surprise you.
 
Not leaning on the bar, no pinch, sharp chains, and the tree was 20 inch diameter. I bought this one for something to work on and make it better.
 

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