Burn a saw up using synthetic?

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Negative! Synthetic oil did not cause the death of your saw. It was something else. Amsoil synthetic is solid at 100:1 and any synthetic is better for your saw than dino at 50:1. I would definitely stay with a name brand oil, though.

I would break in your saw using whatever the dealer will give you to go with it. After that, switch to synthetic if you want. Amsoil Saber Professional is 100:1 oil. It works fine at 100:1, but use it at whatever mix you want. I have used Amsoil for years as 100:1, 75:1, and now have it 50:1 just because I chose to. There is not enough difference in the amount used to care. It runs great at 50:1 also.

Personally, I feel like the saw runs stronger on synthetic and it definitely smokes less, but that is my opinion and I am sure that I will be hammered for it as I have been in the past.

The bottom line is that synthetic oil is fantastic and will treat your saw well, but it is up to you what to use. You will hear both sides on this site as it has been beat up for hours. Try it and if you don't like it, switch back, but don't let someone who has not spent some time running it make your decision for you.
 
Full synthetic can come out of suspension in the gas....
Always shake the heck out of the gas/oil mix before you pour.

This is just my simple minded opinion, but I wouldn't use Amsoil to start a fire if I was freezing to death. I'd run straight up Castrol mineral oil any day over Amsoil.
 
Easy now, these new converts may be a bit skittish!!!!!

They need a bit more love bombing and tamborine music!!!!!
 
It will do the same in vehicles. If you have run dino and decide to change to synthetic, you need to flush the engine first. The synthetic will break loose all the crud in the engine and it will fill up your filter pretty fast.

:agree2:

I've also seen older vehicles turn into "leakers", because over time the engine cover/oil pan bolts and/or seals loosen up, but the accumulating crud keeps it sealed until you put the synthetic in.
 
My main problem with amsoil and the like is, that the engine runs so cool,
that the forming ice crystals damage the piston!

Oh.......umm......well, then maybe I should add a little anti-freeze to the mix, then. :biggrinbounce2:
 
Switched from dino to Stihl Ultra, run saws thirty years old to three months old with and have had zero problems, we run saws alot, the most mix we've run through this year was about twelve gal in one week. Recently we have run some Woodland Pro synthetic because of price, Ultra at 3.40 for the 6.4 oz bootle vs. 1.21 a bottle when you buy a case of 24 of the WP when it is on sale. We haven't been able to tell a difference between the two oils.
It's synthetic for me from now on, for two stroke oil.
 
Easy now, these new converts may be a bit skittish!!!!!

They need a bit more love bombing and tamborine music!!!!!

NOW fish, is this going to be a gentle conversion or an inquisition? I'm stickin with my Stihl HP oil. If it aint broke I don't need to fix it. :)
 
So should new saws be broke in with regular oil or is synthetic ok?, I know briggs & straton does not recomend using syn. for break in, but thats 4 stroke.
 
I've also switched to the Woodland Pro synthetic and plan on sticking with it. It's cheap and really cleans out inside the cylinder.
Imo the WP synthetic mixed at 40-1 is way more than good enough in terms of lubrication for a stock saw. More oil or better oil is a waste of money imo..
 
Switched from dino to Stihl Ultra, run saws thirty years old to three months old with and have had zero problems, we run saws alot, the most mix we've run through this year was about twelve gal in one week. Recently we have run some Woodland Pro synthetic because of price, Ultra at 3.40 for the 6.4 oz bootle vs. 1.21 a bottle when you buy a case of 24 of the WP when it is on sale. We haven't been able to tell a difference between the two oils.
It's synthetic for me from now on, for two stroke oil.

Good to know.
Are you using it 50:1 on all your saws, or using the ratio that each saw originally called for?
Have you noticed a difference in performance after switching to synthetic?
 
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Good to know.
Are you using it 50:1 on all your saws, or using the ratio that each saw originally called for?
Have you noticed a difference in performance after switching to synthetic?

Nope, using it at 32:1

When i switched from the husky xp oil to klotz I noticed much more performance, saw runs cooler and revs quicker. First thing I put it in was a 142 husky and it was a totally new saw.
 
DougNH, that is correct about the seals, but if it is a new seal and is not real good it will leak also. The synthetic just plain slips through tighter places. It also protects the seals because it does not develope the amount of acids that dino lubes do.

As far as break-in periods, I know that it is always a good idea to run dino for awhile in vehicles just to break them in good. Synthetic does not allow as much wear as dino and so used right from the start, your vehicle stays tighter for longer.

I really don't know about the 2-cycle, but I always run a few tanks of whatever the dealer gives me with the saw just in case there is a factory problem with the saw. That way, they cannot say the, "Well, it was your fault because you weren't using our oil", crap.
 
synthetic is all i use, afa it coming out of suspension from sitting, yes it does, so does regular dino oil, happans to all my 2 cycle equip when sitting over the winter for 3 months.
 
My main criteria in an oil is as little stink as possible. So dino is out of question.

I wish I could get a sample pack of premium oils. Klotz, polaris, etc.So I could search for an even less stinky oil. Not looking for a sweet smell, just less smell.


I currently run Mobil 2t and Ultra. The 2t is very slightly less stinky (close though) perhaps because it doesn't have the stabilizer.
 

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