cannot start Stihl MS250 for the life of me!

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so after three hard pulls on choke, set it to fast idle regardless of whether it starts to turn over? then just keep pulling on fast idle no matter how long it takes?

Should fire in at least 2 pulls, If not 1 more pull on choke then off choke.Too many pulls on choke and it floods then it won't start no matter how many times you pull it.

When you pull it in the choke position, is it injecting gas into the cylinder with every pull? Is the same true in fast idle?

Yes just not as much.
 
Hey Tyler get a clue. Everyone on here is trying to be so nice and you aren't listening. NEVER pull on a saw 40 times. Something is wrong and you have to figure it out. You come on here and expect help but don't even read the owners manual? What's up with that? Now go back to the dealer and pay attention this time! If this seems harsh it is because some people are slow learners.
 
ezy start, ha ha ha , sounds like as about as much use as intelli carb, elasto start and flippy lids, ha ha ha
 
Here's the deal.....

Ok, the Giant hasn't had a lot of time for posting recently (sorry!) but this one called to me.

Yes, the 025/Ms250s have a bad habit of being hard to start. I know this will open me up to a rash of sh&t, but that's the way it is. I'm also sorry to say that it seems to me that it is somewhat a dealer tuning problem. Dealers will always take the problem saw, unflood it, get it started and then tune the saw to start consistenly every time. The problem is, the SAW IS ALREADY WARM. Let's face it, they don't have time to let the fool thing cool off so they can see if it starts cold. The dealer, now confident that the saw is tuned, happily turns it back over to the owner, who feels silly. He even starts it, just for good measure, before he tosses it in the trunk. All is well, so now we're all set, right? Sound familiar? Now the poor deluded owner takes the saw home and tries to start it from cold, with no luck. I have heard this story a BUNCH of times now.

Here's the thing: The tune that allows the 025(MS250) to start from warm and idle nicely is NOT always the tune that allows it to start from cold. The cold start setting harder to find ... AND the saw has to be COLD every time you try to find it!! If you DO manage to bully the saw to life on a slightly "off" setting, you are now DONE trying to find the cold start setting because the saw is warm. You have to walk away before you can try again. That is my observation with this line of saws and I have one 021, two 23s, and three 025s.

What you need to do is tune the saw to start from COLD. It is a disgusting, time consuming process, but once you get it, you will like this little saw. My saws start every time, cut well, and are stone reliable now that I understand the issue.

The process:

Unflood the saw just like the dealer did. Leave the plug out and walk away for a spell, to let the saw dry out. Set the mixture settings just like it indicates on the cover. Replace plug and try to start using the Stihl recommended procedure. You have to listen hard for the pop. With the SLIGHTEST pop, take it off choke. It should now be on the high idle setting (one step up on the lever). Pull a few times, maybe up to 5 or 7. If it starts for you, great. you're there or at least very close. If it doesn't start, you flooded it. Now, some saws may be more forgiving and you still may be able to start them with some wrangling. NOT THIS SAW. This particular saw will not start no matter how many times you yank on it. Flooded is flooded and it won't start until you unflood it. Pull the plug, turn it upside down, and pull it over 10 or 15 times.. leave the plug out, go get a frosty one, and see who got kicked off the island.

Come back after a spell (an hour?) replace plug, and repeat this process AFTER READJUSTING THE IDLE MIXTURE SCREW SLIGHTLY. Your choice, richer or leaner. Yes, you are experimenting!! If you do this enough times, going through the unflooding and drying out process each time, you will soon find the idle mixture setting that will start the saw from cold... once you get this setting, REMEMBER IT. During the experimenting process, you will find that once you're headed in the right direction (leaner or richer) the saw will start to give you a clue or two...a faint pop or a near start. Once you tune it to start cold, it will start from warm or hot just fine. If you need to speed up or slow down the idle a bit, stay the bejesus away from the idle mixture screw...you worked HARD for that setting!! Just use the idle SPEED screw.

I walked Rookie1 through this with his 021 (he also was pulling his hair out) and once he got it, everything was fab. Yeah, I know, you shouldn't have to do this, and there will probably be a few Stihl fellers (sorry in advance guys) who will say that there's something really wrong with the saw if it won't start every time with the recommended procedure. I honestly don't know what to say about that, maybe it's true, or maybe it's hubris. However, that must mean there is something wrong with all three of my 025s and they all have exactly the same problem, which I've handled pretty well using the above procedure. You can too.

I think it's one of the reasons a few of the guys (Windthrown's "miserable to run" comment comes to mind) don't like these. I do understand that, but my patience was well rewarded with good, reliable starts, and nice-running saws. I've muffler modded them and they wake up very nicely. They are easy to work on, light, and they make nice, if modest, firewood saws. Having mucked around with them enough to understand them, I am a big fan of these little guys.

In my opinion, the 021 and 23 do not quite have the internal durability of the 025 (do a search on bent rods sometime, but don't show it to your mother) so you made a good choice there.

Good luck!!
 
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Ok, the Giant hasn't had a lot of time for posting recently (sorry!) but this one called to me.

Yes, the 025/Ms250s have a bad habit of being hard to start. I know this will open me up to a rash of sh&t, but that's the way it is. I'm also sorry to say that it seems to me that it is somewhat a dealer tuning problem. Dealers will always take the problem saw, unflood it, get it started and then tune the saw to start consistenly every time. The problem is, the SAW IS ALREADY WARM. Let's face it, they don't have time to let the fool thing cool off so they can see if it starts cold. The dealer, now confident that the saw is tuned, happily turns it back over to the owner, who feels silly. He even starts it, just for good measure, before he tosses it in the trunk. All is well, so now we're all set, right? Sound familiar? Now the poor deluded owner takes the saw home and tries to start it from cold, with no luck. I have heard this story a BUNCH of times now.

Here's the thing: The tune that allows the 025(MS250) to start from warm and idle nicely is NOT always the tune that allows it to start from cold. The cold start setting harder to find ... AND the saw has to be COLD every time you try to find it!! If you DO manage to bully the saw to life on a slightly "off" setting, you are now DONE trying to find the cold start setting because the saw is warm. You have to walk away before you can try again. That is my observation with this line of saws and I have one 021, two 23s, and three 025s.

What you need to do is tune the saw to start from COLD. It is a disgusting, time consuming process, but once you get it, you will like this little saw. My saws start every time, cut well, and are stone reliable now that I understand the issue.

The process:

Unflood the saw just like the dealer did. Leave the plug out and walk away for a spell, to let the saw dry out. Set the mixture settings just like it indicates on the cover. Replace plug and try to start using the Stihl recommended procedure. You have to listen hard for the pop. With the SLIGHTEST pop, take it off choke. It should now be on the high idle setting (one step up on the lever). Pull a few times, maybe up to 5 or 7. If it starts for you, great. you're there or at least very close. If it doesn't start, you flooded it. Now, some saws may be more forgiving and you still may be able to start them with some wrangling. NOT THIS SAW. This particular saw will not start no matter how many times you yank on it. Flooded is flooded and it won't start until you unflood it. Pull the plug, turn it upside down, and pull it over 10 or 15 times.. leave the plug out, go get a frosty one, and see who got kicked off the island.

Come back after a spell (an hour?) replace plug, and repeat this process AFTER READJUSTING THE IDLE MIXTURE SCREW SLIGHTLY. Your choice, richer or leaner. Yes, you are experimenting!! If you do this enough times, going through the unflooding and drying out process each time, you will soon find the idle mixture setting that will start the saw from cold... once you get this setting, REMEMBER IT. During the experimenting process, you will find that once you're headed in the right direction (leaner or richer) the saw will start to give you a clue or two...a faint pop or a near start. Once you tune it to start cold, it will start from warm or hot just fine. If you need to speed up or slow down the idle a bit, stay the bejesus away from the idle mixture screw...you worked HARD for that setting!! Just use the idle SPEED screw.

I walked Rookie1 through this with his 021 (he also was pulling his hair out) and once he got it, everything was fab. Yeah, I know, you shouldn't have to do this, and there will probably be a few Stihl fellers (sorry in advance guys) who will say that there's something really wrong with the saw if it won't start every time with the recommended procedure. I honestly don't know what to say about that, maybe it's true, or maybe it's hubris. However, that must mean there is something wrong with all three of my 025s and they all have exactly the same problem, which I've handled pretty well using the above procedure. You can too.

I think it's one of the reasons a few of the guys (Windthrown's "miserable to run" comment comes to mind) don't like these. I do understand that, but my patience was well rewarded with good, reliable starts, and nice-running saws. I've muffler modded them and they wake up very nicely. They are easy to work on, light, and they make nice, if modest, firewood saws. Having mucked around with them enough to understand them, I am a big fan of these little guys.

In my opinion, the 021 and 23 do not quite have the internal durability of the 025 (do a search on bent rods sometime, but don't show it to your mother) so you made a good choice there.

Good luck!!

:agree2::agree2::agree2::agree2:

I have beat the living tar outta the wifes MS-250 since 05' when we were clearing for this house and some jackass swiped my 346 and 262.

She previously beat the crap outta the thing(Literally dropped trees on it) for a couple years prior to that.

They ain't a pro saw, but will tolerate thier share of heavy use.

Ours used to hate me. It flat out would NOT start for me, though the wife had no issues with it. I finally figured out what was going on.

Our local dealer had instructed her to only pull three times on choke with or without a pop, and then switching to high idle, or it would flood.

That led me to adjusting the idle to as lean as possible while cold, and it's been an easy starter ever since.

The trick is to get it started and adjusted in a couple Min. or less, let it cool down and try again a little more lean each time, and then follow through with the usual bog and wiggle tests.

Once set, it's a 3rd pull or less every time.

Just quit tryin' to stretch the cord with 40 pulls in a row.
All you're doin' is wearing the spring thingys and frustrating yourself.;)

Stay safe!
Dingeryote
 
Not Easy2Start so follow the good advice!

Naw, that's not an Easy2Start saw, so disregard all the original advice on how to start those. Everyone's been giving good advice since your video, so just a matter of following it now.

Since your saw doesn't have Easy2Start, there's a good video on how to start a Stihl on the Stihl website. That may also help.

PPine
 
Ok, I have 3 adjustment screws on my saw. They are marker "H", "L", and "LA". The manual calls the H and L screws "high speed screw" and "low speed screw" respectively. It calls the LA screw "idle speed screw".

Which is the "idle mixture adjustment" and which way do I turn it for lean/rich mixture?
 
Ok, I have 3 adjustment screws on my saw. They are marker "H", "L", and "LA". The manual calls the H and L screws "high speed screw" and "low speed screw" respectively. It calls the LA screw "idle speed screw".

Which is the "idle mixture adjustment" and which way do I turn it for lean/rich mixture?

L is the idle mixture adjustment.
LA is the Idle Speed adjustment.

I don't have an 025 manual but normally IN- is leaning( clockwise )out is richening( counteclock wise) Look to see which direction is in or out?

A
 
Ok, I have 3 adjustment screws on my saw. They are marker "H", "L", and "LA". The manual calls the H and L screws "high speed screw" and "low speed screw" respectively. It calls the LA screw "idle speed screw".

Which is the "idle mixture adjustment" and which way do I turn it for lean/rich mixture?

It is good news that you have three adjustment screws total. Many of these saws were outfitted with only the idle mixture adjustment and the idle speed screw... the high speed mixture screw was omitted (fixed jet). Once you get this puppy running nicely, you can open up the muffler some as long as you richen the high speed mixture screw. You will see a noticeable increase in performance.

One step at a time, though! Stick with it, you'll get it!
 
Okay.....is there someone that lives close to this guy that can help/show him how to get this puppy running?

I drop start. Using the weight and momentum of the saw flips it over pretty good.

If a saw is flooded, I put it on the ground, choke open, throttle held open with left hand, knee on top of the saw to hold it down, and the right hand pulling the rope.

A two stroke CAN NOT run with any liquid in the crankcase. FYI

I use the term "fire" for the pop noise. The engine is "turning over" every time the rope is pulled and when it's running.
 
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If it is 100F a lot and the saw has been stored with gas in the tank you may not need to choke it at all. Next time try starting it with the switch in the second position from the bottom.

Give it no more than 3 pulls.

If no start then choke it and pull it once or twice and then set switch in the second position from the bottom.

How old is this saw?
 
bought one off ebay.

I just bought a 250 easy start off ebay for $300 because it looked great and I wanted to see what the easy start was all about.. RTFM..(read the flippin manual)...I have had Stihl saws most of my smart adult life. I got this one via fedex and fueled it up..pumped the primer bulb and pulled it one time on full choke..popped..one pull on half choke..runs..guy I bought it from said he used it for one small takedown..and I believe it..clean saw. I just wanted to see how the easy start thing worked..personally I am not a fan. My dad taught me if you can't cock the gun you can't shoot it. If you can't start the saw..probably shouldn't run it. btw..I giggled like a schoolgirl every time I started the easy start thing..it is a toy..not to get down on the people that use them..just concerned about the lawsuits from the people that couldn't start a saw without it. I think it is a good idea for 2 reasons.. women that can't pull over a big saw and seasoned people that don't have the strength to get the old girl started anymore. Good luck
 
MS 250 stories cont.

I was given a "blankety blank" ms250 the other day. Guy says he hates it, can't get it to run for nuttin' its a POS. He has a 460 next to it that is a real saw and a husky 455 as a backup. I'm there to check out a grinder he posted on CL( that's another story...) anyway he is hatin' on the 250. Says he has had it to two shops and no one can start it. they condemned it to the "clunker" pile. I say let me have her for a few days. He says only if you keep it and get it out of here...OK if I have to.

I remembered this thread and started normal checks...spark-good, fuel-getting there, pull filter-clean enough, Compression 130+. OK what's the deal? Pull,pull, pull keeps flooding don't want any part of starting(or burping). Yup I get frustrated some. Change out the plug and so on...come back to this thread and remember its a "easy start"...has the bulb and wind em up chain adjuster. This morning I say, man I don't remember feeling anything different when pulling on this saw then any other 260 or smaller saw I've ever pulled, what is this "easy start" thing all about. Anyway I go downstairs to feel what the differences are and I say lets just pull once on choke, no bulb push in and see what we get. I got to tell you I can't tell the difference but there was a slight burp, and man it was more like passing gas( SBD ) then a good old 2 stroke burp. Anyway knock it off choke and get a good burp. two more pulls and it fires.

Maybe Tommy or one of the pros can tell me, but what does the "easy start" do other then make it NOT easy to start?. I was gonna keep this thing as a "loaner" but it's too complicated to start....the jury is still out on this one for me. It's clearly not going to sit next to the 026 just yet though. She might be the red handled "Step child"...for now.
 
OK, wanted to post an update for all of you that have helped me.

First, I turned the idle mixture screw almost 3 full turns leaner. Not sure how it was set that rich, but probably contributed a lot to the flooding.

I have been able to consistently get it started within a dozen pulls. The trick is to never pull more than twice on full choke no matter if it putters or not. It is constantly over 90F here, and often over 100F. I learned that at those temperatures, there is no such thing as a "cold" engine, even if it hasn't been run in a week. I am often able to get it started within a few pulls on the partial choke setting, without using full choke at all.

So I guess the lesson is that this saw is very susceptible to flooding, and to be very judicious in the use of the full choke setting.
 
3 turns leaner? Most saws start out at one turn out on the H and L screws and then adjust from there when it's running. 3 turns plus out really could get too much gas.
 
Guys,

I can't remember when I had this much fun last time. Holy crap.
I was almost on my way there somewhere in the middle to get an air ticket over the pond and cut that wood for you. You must have upper arms thicker than a 12 inch log from all that pulling. And the video "pulling as gently as possible" ( and then it turns out that you don't have
an easy. .sorry .. hard to start saw. ) almost killed me.

I'd quote Tommies advice to clean out the flooded engine by pulling with the muffler off and put into the E2S user manual. Too bad you got it stared now and this thread dies. Buy hey, why not continue the thread until it starts in less than a dozen pulls ? That would be your next challenge.
 
I used a Stihl Farm Boss many years ago - always started by the 3rd or 4th pull. Bought a new Stihl MS 250 with Easy2Start (not for me) system . I have used it twice and both times took me almost 1/2 an hour to get it started. Now I flat out cannot get it to start. Took it back to the dealer, who opened it up, declared the engine was flooded, dried it out. I picked it up today, and the guy showed me again how to start it. Made it look easy. I got it home, tried to start it myself, absolutely nothing. Will not start to turn over (purring sound).

Here is my technique:

set it on the ground, depress trigger, set switch to Cold Start (last one on the bottom). Pick it up, holding the front handle with my left hand (not holding the chain brake at all).

Pull it hard 3 times in quick succession. Nothing, no sign of it beginning to start. Set the switch to Warm Start, pull it 5 times, nothing. Set it to Run, pull it. Nothing.

Opened up the case, removed spark plug, checked gap (fine), turned saw upside down. Nothing comes out; it's dry. Put it back together. Set switch to Cold Start, pull it 5 times. Nothing.

What am I doing wrong?


I have the Stihl MS 250C Easy2Start

I got it used (like new) and had never used Easy2Start before. I didn't have a clue about it.
It wouldn't start. When I pulled the cord there was plenty of spring back, but nothing happened; no feeling of engagement whatsoever, no pop or start sound; nothing.
Started searching.
No manual. I could find no reference manual for the Stihl MS 250C Easy2Start on any of Stihl's sites worldwide; only the manual for the MS250. No mention of easy2start. I can't reason why this is; are they embarrassed about it?
I finally found a breakdown of the recoil starter on a parts seller site.

Based on this info I disassembled the recoil unit:
This is not a difficult process; just be cautious,
Removed the c-clip and pulled off the easy2start unit off the arbor.
You don't have to touch the screw on top of the arbor.
Everything looked like new and in perfect condition.
When you pull the start cord the two little pawls should spring out to engage the easy2start unit.
This wasn't happening. The movement of the pawls was very stiff and they wouldn't spring out.
I removed the spring clip which guides the movement of the pawls and holds them in place.
Be careful to keep the start rope unit and the spring below it in place so that it doesn't un-spring; this isn't hard to do; I'm just urging caution.
I was able, by moving the pawls, to see that they were very stiff.
I removed each pawl and sanded the cylinder with very fine sandpaper (400 grit) until I could reinsert them and get free movement. It doesn't take much.
I replaced the spring clip being careful to install it in the proper orientation.
When I pulled the start cord, the pawls sprung out the way they should.
I reassembled the recoil unit.

The saw started the way it should:
Pull the cord gently on cold choke; hear the pop.
Pull the cord gently on warm choke; away it goes.
 
wow! this is an old dead thread you have brought back to life!

Happy to report that, 8 years after I started this thread, I have my MS250 (without Easy2Start) well-tuned, starting on 2-3 pulls every time, and running like a champ. Last summer I cut up 9-cord grapple load of hardwood with the Mighty Midget

I don't know if this thread will help anyone else, but thanks for the memories
 
ha funny 8 year later but good brave handy workshop running dog to pull apart the mechanism as its very fiddly and easy to have a spring or part jump out. My 025 still going ok tho i have had to replace the start hub arbor as worn out and failed to engage but in doing so the shop gave men the wrong part and so some frustration to figure this out of have to do it twice
The saw itself has worked hard training hmm 150 plus new saw users each starting a saw for their 1st time and doing it over and over it proved very handy for any crew ladys as no need for shear strength just gentle yank and it goes.
 
Yea, fun thread from the old days! Glad you got it figured out! They start out a bit fiddly, but once you get them dialed in, they become a nice little firewood saw. I firmly believe that the more choked up those saws got due to EPA restrictions, the harder they were to get the mixtures right. That stupid little hole in the muffler just didn't let them breathe. Then they changed the carb from the nice WT-215 and things got worse. ANY 025/250 that came in my door would get a used, EBAY WT-215 and a roto-rooter job on the muffler. A whole new saw. I took one of them all apart and did a port job on it... didn't mess with timing or anything, just widened the exhaust and intake. It became an incredibly snappy and satisfying saw to run.
 

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