Chain oil, etc.

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i'll catch a little hell for this i'm sure.

stihl hp ultra 50:1 in the mix.

just about anything in the bar tank other than used motor oil. it needs only to lube the chain. tackifiers are nice but if you turn up the oiler it probably won't be a problem. i have a bucket of unused tractor hydraulic i was going to start mixin in with my bar lube (stihl bar, poulan bar, and motor oil mix) soon as i get low

(runs away before being stoned by the mob)
 
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volks-man said:
i'll catch a little hell for this i'm sure.

stihl hp ultra 50:1 in the mix.

just about anything in the bar tank other than used motor oil. it need only to lube the chain. tackifiers are nice but if you turn up the oiler it probably won't be a problem. i have a bucket of unused tractor hydraulic i was going to start mixin in with my bar lube (stihl bar, poulan bar, and motor oil mix) soon as i get low

(runs away before being stoned by the mob)
Click to expand...

The mob is slow tonight. Must be off drinking.
 
me i use stihl ultra when i wasin Texas. In NC i use texaco 2 stroke oil. I sse our GOVT oil that is good
 
New to the saw thing...about as far from new to two strokes as you can get...

Amsoil saber pro...for the motor with torco 110 oct race gas... Easier to get than av gas for me and I use it in my quads to so I always have some around.

Bar oil? New 361 with used tractor engine oil mixed with diesel! Just kidding....
 
volks-man said:
just about anything in the bar tank other than used motor oil. it needs only to lube the chain. tackifiers are nice but if you turn up the oiler it probably won't be a problem. i have a bucket of unused tractor hydraulic i was going to start mixin in with my bar lube (stihl bar, poulan bar, and motor oil mix) soon as i get low

(runs away before being stoned by the mob)
Click to expand...

I used to be ignorant before I joined AS. I used 30 wt non-detergent oil on my chainsaw bars back in the dark age. That is what I used in with my dad's Homelite, and my Mac 380 with the oil squirt levers on them. Cheapest oil you can get, and no detergent in there to suspend stuff. I thought it was better than my father's oil, which was oil drippings (used crankcase oil). He swore by that stuff for all kinds of things.

Anyway, since joining AS and converting to using to real chainsaw bar oil in my saws, I noticed right away that my chains did not stretch as much and the bars stayed cleaner. Maybe its just an illusion, or mass hypnosis from reading so many posts on AS, but I think there is something to using a good chainsaw bar oil designed for that purpose. I have no plans on going back to non-detergent 30 wt oil any time soon. Nor to any dyno oil gas mix for that matter.
 
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windthrown said:
I used to be ignorant before I joined AS. I used 30 wt non-detergent oil on my chainsaw bars back in the dark age. That is what I used in with my dad's Homelite, and my Mac 380 with the oil squirt levers on them. Cheapest oil you can get, and no detergent in there to suspend stuff. I thought it was better than my father's oil, which was oil drippings (used crankcase oil). He swore by that stuff for all kinds of things.

Anyway, since joining AS and converting to using to real chainsaw bar oil in my saws, I noticed right away that my chains did not stretch as much and the bars stayed cleaner. Maybe its just an illusion, or mass hypnosis from reading so many posts on AS, but I think there is something to using a good chainsaw bar oil designed for that purpose. I have no plans on going back to non-detergent 30 wt oil any time soon. Nor to any dyno oil gas mix for that matter.
Click to expand...

why don't you say how you really feel?
i started with a stihl bar oil. i added poulan bar oil to it and then added motor oil of varying weights. started with a little non-detergent sae 20 i had a while back but usually partial new quarts left over from the vehicles oil changes. i do not forsee any harmful effects if i were to cut bar oil with my unused tractor hydraulic (providing it isn't too thin).
it will lubricate. it will cool. it will still have some tackifiers. it will also have plenty of detergent if i am not mistaken.
what's the downside?
 
Buzsaw said:
Which company refines/produced the oil for Stihl, Husky, or any chainsaw oil?
Click to expand...

lubrication technology in Golden Valley, MN produces two stroke oil and chemicals for Polaris, Arctic Cat and ECHO.

I use: echo Powerblend, Husqvarna XP and Mobil mx2t (2cases left!)
 
Stihl´s pre-mixed Motomix and stihl´s half synthetic baroil.
I buy the stuff at local Stihl dealer where i worked for three quarters of a year. So i get a nice discount. Since a few months i work parttime for community services near Amsterdam as arborist/treeclimber. It´s nice that community services provided the Motomix because of less toxic fumes. So i decided to buy it for my own business that i run now parttime.
 
Husqvarna low smoke mix oil at 25:1 into 95 octane pump gas; John Deere Chaingard BC oil for stringy, syrupy fun.
 
volks-man said:
why don't you say how you really feel?
i started with a stihl bar oil. i added poulan bar oil to it and then added motor oil of varying weights. started with a little non-detergent sae 20 i had a while back but usually partial new quarts left over from the vehicles oil changes. i do not forsee any harmful effects if i were to cut bar oil with my unused tractor hydraulic (providing it isn't too thin).
it will lubricate. it will cool. it will still have some tackifiers. it will also have plenty of detergent if i am not mistaken.
what's the downside?
Click to expand...

How do I really feel?

I :heart: my 361s Mang!

As for mixing and blending oil, I dunno. Seems cheaper to just buy bar oil on sale. $5-$6 a gallon, vs $2.50 a qt these days for plain oil.

My experience is just that. Your milage may vary.
 
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windthrown said:
How do I really feel?

I :heart: my 361s Mang!

As for mixing and blending oil, I dunno. Seems cheaper to just buy bar oil on sale. $5-$6 a gallon, vs $2.50 a qt these days for plain oil.

My experience is just that. Your mialage may vary.
Click to expand...

to clarify:
i don't go out and buy stuff to mix with the bar oil. that would be foolish. if i have motor oil left after a fill or top-off in the car i dump that in to the bar oil bottle. i haven't used the tractor hydraulic yet, but i didn't run out and buy that for this purpose either. i no longer have the tractor but i have the oil.... gotta do something with it.:)
 
volks-man said:
to clarify:
i don't go out and buy stuff to mix with the bar oil. that would be foolish. if i have motor oil left after a fill or top-off in the car i dump that in to the bar oil bottle. i haven't used the tractor hydraulic yet, but i didn't run out and buy that for this purpose either. i no longer have the tractor but i have the oil.... gotta do something with it.:)
Click to expand...

I see! said the blind man to his deaf son...

If the hydrolic fluid is new, you could sell it on CL. That stuff is getting pretty spendy. I used to have about six 5 gallon containers of used hydrolic fluid from servicing the Kubota. I finally got rid of it with some sharps and old paint at a local high school hazardous waste dump day. I was going to build an oil burner to heat the barn that burns used motor, hydrolic and ATF oil pretty cleanly. They had a design on MEN that looked pretty simple.

I was thinking of using up some half bottles of unused 5-30 wt oil that I have to thin my bar oil down for winter use. I do not buy diesel any more (no longer have the Kubota, it stayed on the ranch when I moved away). I would rather use something other than kerosene or diesel to thin bar oil with. I have also been thinking of flipping to something more biodegradable and environmentally friendly than dyno bar oil, but the biodegradable stuff to really expensive and hard to find around here. I have also read some not so good things about it hardening on chains and bars.
 
i see stones

i have given much thought to running canola oil.
i think the key to that hardening and gumming prob is flushing out the tank with mix and running dino through it before storage.

(ducks and runs from the stones.)
 
I've run into people who use canola oil and say it's better, never used it myself though. It doesn't seem any cheaper than regular bar oil, so I guess the main reason you would want to use it would be for your health. And I guess if you wanted to fry up some squirrels or rabbits while you were out cuttin...
 
here come more stones.

my thing is:

i wouldn't dump a quart of dino oil on my lawn. let alone gallons. that is what i feel like i am doing with it in the woods. just dumping it out all over the place a little at a time. canola may complicate my life a little but maybe i will sleep better?
 
I just started using the woodland pro synthetic from baileys in my backpacks and saws, no probs. was using poulan synthetic from wally world before that with no probs....woodland is a little cheaper and is fd rated.
 
Well, dyno oil breaks down too. Also when I was cutting pines this summer? Man, I almost fell over from all the terpentine that was in that wood. Plants have a lot of hydrocarbons in them and not all of them are good for the environment either.

Most of the boilogists I have seen out collecting samples were looking for oil in water runoff. The stuff that gets into the ground seems to be less of an issue. Bar oil is also well distributed, and typically not pooled in any one place. I have been in bogs that were never cut, and seen oil films on the water. Mainly from natural oils in plants. Of course, in cut areas it tends to be more motor oil film, and detergents (phosphates from fertilizers). Though the detergents also help to break down the oils.

I can sleep at night using dyno bar oil for now. If only my favorite 361 would give me more room in the bed at night though? :heart:
 
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