Chain sharpeners....

[Oldtimer]

It took a lot of attempts, but I can now file a 20" chain by hand in about 4 minutes and make it cut as good as a new one, as long as I don't need to hit the rakers...in that case add another 4 minutes.
The thing about power sharpeners is they can effectively heat treat the tooth, making it a real pain to sharpen with a file if you have to. Also, doing it "free hand" with a power tool it's easy to get the chain cutting keyholes..

 

[sbhooper]

I guess that a grinder is fine if you want to lay out the money. A good grinder is as much as several new chains. A file is quick, handy, portable and you can get lots of use out of a chain using a file on it instead of a grinder. Using a file, I get more than my money's worth out of my chains and they are sharp without worrying about burning the chain up.

I use a "c" clamp attached to a board as a vise. I set the board on the tailgate of my pickup or mule and sit on the end of it. The saw is clamped in the "c" clamp and is secure. I make sure that my chain is tight and sharpen it. I also made a shop vise jig for holding a chain to sharpen it, but I never use it. My sharpening is done with my field vise and unless I am cleaning the saw or something, I don't ever remove the chain. I stop to fuel the saw and just take a break and tune up the chain also. It just takes a few minutes and gives you a breather before you go back to cutting. I use Stihl and Oregon file guides-nothing special. Works for me!

 

[Walt41]

a file. its cheaper and faster and easier and you end up with a sharper chain. just practice and youll end up with a sharper-than-new chain

Yes Yes and yes, with practice even I have been able to get a great edge

 

[Philbert]

I use a "c" clamp attached to a board as a vise. I set the board on the tailgate of my pickup or mule and sit on the end of it. The saw is clamped in the "c" clamp and is secure.

Photos?

Philbert

 

[sbhooper]

I'll try to get a good one tomorrow. It is going to be raining too hard to do anything anyway!

 

[Haywire Haywood]

I have the NT grinder with CBN wheels for both 3/8 and 325. I used to sharpen with it every time but have since fallen back to the round file except for when I rock a chain out like today... that 36" loop of rocked out chain will be on the grinder tomorrow.

Ian

 

[Nosmo]

C Clamps

I like the C clamp method too. I use two of them - one on each side of the bar and this keeps the saw from rocking when sharpening. I carry the C clamps and my file when cutting away from home.

No need for a stump vise or other holding device. Just the C clamps and the tailgate of my truck when out in the timber.

Nosmo

 

[gwiley]

I see a few comments about C clamps. I bought a stump vise from Bailey's and I love it. It is cheap, small, well designed and can be used on a stump or log so you don't need to carry a board with you. If you file in the field the stump vise is the way to go.

I typically don't use a vise at all, just set the saw on my lap (chaps) - the vise is reserved for rocked out chain or for when I am exhausted and need to sit a while and rest anyway.

 

[Philbert]

I've posted a few photos of C-clamp holders in other threads and am interested to see if sbhooper has come up with another way. Always interested in seeing new ideas and nice implementations of existing ideas.

I do have a vice in my workshop and a stump vice for stumps, but C-clamps can be nice for tailgates, picnic tables, etc. In one thread, a guy posted a photo of a coarse thread screw he welded or brazed onto a C-clamp to make his own stump vice.

Philbert

kevin j 's clamp seen at a GTG (built into cover of tote box that carries sharpening and lube supplies)

My C-clamping fixture

 

[sbhooper]

Here is the vise that I use for all of my sharpening. It is shown here sitting on the tailgate of my Kawasaki mule. I just tighten the chain to where it should be, sit on the board to stabilize the saw and sharpen the chain. It is easy, quick, and totally portable.

 

[Philbert]

Here is the vise that I use for all of my sharpening.

Thanks SB; looks nice and simple. It looks like the C-clamp is held in a slot in the board with some type of epoxy putty? Is that right?

Philbert

 

[sbhooper]

Yep. I just took an extra piece of 2x6 and cut a hole lengthwise with the chainsaw. It is the putty that you cut off a piece and work it with your fingers until mixed.

 

[Oldtimer]

You guys are making up jigs and such, which is fine..but try boring a hole through a small junk hardwood sapling about 4" in diameter.. Bore it at belly hight, bore it at a slight up/down angle, so the saw-head is angled down a bit. Wiggle the chain around side to side in the hole to open it up just a bit. You'll need the bit of room to move the chain as you file.

Presto: cost free, no hassle saw vise.

I personally file both sides of the chain from the first tooth I can reach by the muffler to the last one I can get at the sapling, then lift the saw a touch, use the file to hook behind the last sharpened tooth and advance the chain in the cutting direction until the next un-sharpened tooth is close to the tree but still can be sharpened, and repeat. You'll notice the fresh sharpened tooth when you reach it, and bang...done.

If this doesn't make sense, I can take a few pictures. It's simple, fast, free. And if you're in the woods a half mile, it beats walking out to the truck.

 

[Philbert]

try boring a hole through a small junk hardwood sapling

OT,

That's a time-honored method if you have the trees to spare, or if you bore into a tree that you are about to clear anyway. But I can't do that in the city or where we are doing selective cutting.

Some guys will cut a kerf in a stump or round to stabilize the bar in the same manner, with the saw motor resting on another piece of wood.

If you tap a stump vice into a good sized log, you also have a place to sit!

Lots of ways to do it, and it's good to know more than one.

Philbert

 

[Oldtimer]

OT,

That's a time-honored method if you have the trees to spare, or if you bore into a tree that you are about to clear anyway. But I can't do that in the city or where we are doing selective cutting.

Some guys will cut a kerf in a stump or round to stabilize the bar in the same manner, with the saw motor resting on another piece of wood.

If you tap a stump vice into a good sized log, you also have a place to sit!

Lots of ways to do it, and it's good to know more than one.

Philbert

Another way I have seen is to bore a hole in a 2x4, and make it fit into a stake pocket of the truck...that way you bring the junk sapling with you.

 

[Philbert]

Another way I have seen is to bore a hole in a 2x4, and make it fit into a stake pocket of the truck...that way you bring the junk sapling with you.

I like that one - that's new to me!

Philbert

 

[mtfallsmikey]

I really don't have the time for field sharpening...just carry spare chains for all of my saws with me.....but, I'm going to get a stump vise just in case.

 

[Homelite410]

I personally fell in love with my Grandberg Grind-N-Joint!! Its about 15 min for me to do a 30" chain..

 

[gwiley]

I personally fell in love with my Grandberg Grind-N-Joint!! Its about 15 min for me to do a 30" chain..

Hmmmmm, really? I can do an 18" chain in under 5 minutes fee hand filing in the field without taking it off the saw well enough to get surprised compliments from folks watching me work.

 

[mtfallsmikey]

Hmmmmm, really? I can do an 18" chain in under 5 minutes fee hand filing in the field without taking it off the saw well enough to get surprised compliments from folks watching me work.

And that's no B.S.
I'm not that quick, but I'm getting there...patience, gwiley, he has to go thru the whole process of the Granberg, etc. first, then he will discover the true method, like we all did!