Chain sharpening

[warjohn]

In the past I have tried using one of the oregon file guides that clamp on the bar with no success. Until a couple months ago I was paying to have chains sharpened. I spent over 200 dollars last winter alone. But when I visited Teacherman to help him with a large hack berry tree and my 2077 with a freshly sharpened chain wouldn't cut straight he hand filed it to perfection so I started hand filing. A couple weeks ago I bought a used 511a so now I use the grinder when I am at home and hand file in the field.

 

[Cliff R]

I've been cutting down trees and cutting up firewood most of my adult life, heated with firewood now for over 29 years, and currently manage 200 acres of woods. Currently we have close to a dozen chainsaws in the arsenal, with several different types/styles of chains on them.

I have never owned a chain grinder, or even wanted one. IMHO, it really doesn't matter whether you own one or not, take the time and learn how to correctly sharpen a chain. It is a skill that you will always use, and it will save time and money.

Each time I go to the woods, I take along at least 5 saws, with razor sharp chains, fueled, serviced and ready to go. I'll cut with them until they get dull or run out of fuel, then get another one. It's pretty rare these days if I sharpen one in the field, but on occassion it becomes necessary. I always "touch up" the chains at each time the saws are fueled up, and after every outing or at least before they are used again.

I've found that keeping the chain razor sharp at all times gets more work done on less fuel, in less time, and is a LOT easier on the saw.

You can do just as good a job as a machine, and remove a lot less material from the cutting tooth, as most often the chain just needs "touched up", not ground back into shape. Grinders eat up a lot more of the cutting tooth than I'm confortable with. The chains on my saws last for several years, and they are used frequently. Several folks I associate with that cut wood carry their chains to a shop to be ground, and one owns a grinder. They don't get very many outings from their ground chains, a lot of which I'm sure is due to the person grinding the chains not removing the minimal amount of material to get an edge back on the teeth.

WAY back when I first started cutting I used a file guide, then at about the 10 year mark started filing them by hand. The file guide will keep you honest, and can also be used like a grinder to true up the chain after several sharpenings by hand without a guide. Even so, I don't use it at all these days, everything is done by hand and I can sharpen a chain in about a minute and not even have to remove it from the saw......Cliff

 

[AUSSIE1]

Here here Cliff.
And as Matt stated why would you trust the store down the road to sharpen your chain?
Your chains will last alot longer learning to file.

 

[Cliff R]

I don't really believe shops whack away at your chains to shorten their service life.

Basically, WAY too many folks simply lack the attention to detail required to remove the absolute minimum amount of material from the cutting teeth. They just chuck them up and grind them all back far enough to that they know for sure they woln't have to go around it more than once on each side. The result is removing more than is needed to establish a good cutting edge.

I don't think they really try to shorten the chain life so they can sell more chains, as much as they just want to get them done as quickly as possible with the least amount of effort....FWIW....Cliff

 

[Fronty Owner]

I realize there are alot of variables here, but how many times should you need to move the file over the cutting tooth on a touch up? say an hour or so of cutting oak
I have one of the oregon files with the guide on it that holds the file at the proper depth and gives an angle guide. After I unload my truck, I will run over each cutter 10 or so times, but it sounds like maybe 2 or 3 is all I need to do.

 

[Philbert]

I realize there are alot of variables here, but how many times should you need to move the file over the cutting tooth on a touch up?

Pick the worst tooth.

Use the fewest number of strokes needed to get an edge.

Make the others the same.

It will take more strokes if you are cleaning up damaged teeth, as opposed to touching up an edge that is still cutting.

Don't mean to bring up a 'DUH' comment, but some guys don't realize that files don't last forever. They wear out and need to be replaced. So, if you are using an old, dull file, it will also take more strokes than using a sharp, new file.

Philbert

 

[clearance]

Pick the worst tooth.

Use the fewest number of strokes needed to get an edge.

Make the others the same.

It will take more strokes if you are cleaning up damaged teeth, as opposed to touching up an edge that is still cutting.

Don't mean to bring up a 'DUH' comment, but some guys don't realize that files don't last forever. They wear out and need to be replaced. So, if you are using an old, dull file, it will also take more strokes than using a sharp, new file.

Philbert

Excellent.

 

[Fronty Owner]

Ive used my file maybe a dozen times on 16" chains.

 

[BobL]

So how do you guys file the right side with the saw in the mill?

Ah Ha - it's a BIL Mill design feature! (actually it was sheer fluke but I'm claiming it as a design feature).

Just about all Alaskans that have a lengthwise handle have their handles too low.
Check out the difference between the height of the handle in these two pics. Top one is BIL, bottom is a Granberg clone.

This means provided the BIL mill is set to cut 2" thick slabs or thicker I have enough room to get a file in between the lengthwise handle and the bar. If the mill set for less than 2" I have to move the bar away from the mill frame till it is at least 2"

The other feature is my magnetic anti-bar-sag device - it holds a long bar steady while I file.
This really works well.

To file I lay the mill over on its side on my portable work table I bring with me or half sawn log and start filing. To file the RHS I actually rest my chest on the top rail leaving my arms free to file - it sounds weird but it works.

 

[AUSSIE1]

Yeah cool Bob, thankyou.

 

[BobL]

Pick the worst tooth.
Use the fewest number of strokes needed to get an edge.

Good post Phil but it's not just about getting any edge, the edge has to be hard up against the cutter top plate and side plate.

Instead of edge look for "glint". A edge can form on a cutting edge without it necessarily being in the right place. This is why using a finger is not ideal for assessing sharpness.

In the RHS magnification the edge can still have an edge and your finger can still feel an edge but it is not in the right place and this cutter will not cut as well as the LHS cutter. The thing to look for is "glint" , if you can see glint, the edge is not in the right place. Keep sharpening till your see no glint - the edge should look black. In my home shop I wear head magnifiers to make sure I have no glint.

 

[Philbert]

Good post Phil but it's not just about getting any edge, the edge has to be hard up against the cutter top plate and side plate.

No disagreement here. I used the term 'get an edge' to keep things simple.

What I meant, or hoped people would understand, was to file just enough to get proper edges on the top and side. Obviously, there are a number of angles and profiles that have to be met, etc., for the cutter to work properly.

But more importantly, is that really a Husquvarna coffee can in your second photo?

Philbert

 

[BobL]

But more importantly, is that really a Husquvarna coffee can in your second photo?

Old school steel gas can - It's not mine - It's best buddy Huds. He has a heap of cool Husky stuff and I like going to his place to play!

 

[MCW]

Lets be honest Bob, this is the edge you really want to see on a chain to get good results...

You've already seen it and thought it was pretty impressive

 

[Philbert]

That chain doesn't cut, it just oxidizes its way through wood.

Philbert

 

[ggosling]

Thanks to all,

I received the Stihl file guide and proceeded to sharpen about 12 chains that I own currently. Part way through the process I watched an instructional video to confirm I wasn't' missing anything because it seemed fairly simple and straight forward. Seems like an easy process and only one chain I needed to remove some material from the top of the depth links.

Thanks to all who pointed me down the filing path. May still look for a grinder at some point but no urgent need.


Garry

ps. the Oregon file guide is 15 bucks cheaper and looks identical.

 

[wheelman]

Good deal you will never regret learning to hand file. It is a skill you will always carry with you and its not nearly as heavy as a pile of spare chains.

 

[gallegosmike]

I started hand filing with a husky guide, then graduated to hand filing without the guide. It is so much faster without the guide! I am getting a grinder to realign the cutters every 3-4 sharpenings. Plus its quicker to drop the rakers with a grinder then by hand. I know that with a file, I get real close the angles that I need. But the anal side of me wants to 100 persent accurate with the angles. If I had the money, I would buy a silvey grinder and raker grinder. It is pricey, but nice and accurate.

 

[Philbert]

I know that with a file, I get real close the angles that I need. But the anal side of me wants to 100 persent accurate with the angles.

Just a thought.

If you like hand filing but want dead on angles, think about getting one of the Oregon or Granberg filing guides for $30 - $40 and only use it every 3rd or 4th time to true things up from the eyeball jobs.

Philbert

 

[Evan]

i free hand with a hand 7/32 file and also free hand with a dremel and 7/32 sharpeningstone.

i touch up on the job if i feel my chains duleing or i just switch to sharp saw and finish out the day. i also sometimes pack a few chains if im planning to cut alot. i can switch chains in a few minutes instead of sharpeing.

with the dremel you have to be very carfull to not take off more then you need to.

i check rakers with a straight edge across the cutters so i can make sure theyre below them.