Chain sharpening

[SteveH]

Reason I finally got a grinder last winter was after using the Granberg and hand filing, chains eventually, for me, get off as to length of cutters, etc. and no way I wanted to spend the time with a micrometer.... Not for chains. Plus, now and then you hit that little stone in the tree or a nail or something that buggers up a few teeth. Fixing that stuff by hand is a pain. I figured that either I toss those chains or take 'em in at $8 a pop plus gas/time. Got the grinder for those times, don't regret it though I still do my daily touch-ups and fine tuning with the Granberg. It's fast, simple, and effective. Chains that get a bit out of whack I set aside til I get time and then go to the grinder to get 'em back in sinc. Some people just toss the chains into the recycle bin; I'm one of those folks who doesn't like to toss an otherwise ok chain. Bugs me. So, the grinder. Worth the investment?? One could argue it either way, but I've got it so the argument to myself is over. But either by hand/eye or Granberg-style guide you can do a real good job for the cost of a few files.

 

[B_Turner]

Good post Phil but it's not just about getting any edge, the edge has to be hard up against the cutter top plate and side plate.

Instead of edge look for "glint". A edge can form on a cutting edge without it necessarily being in the right place. This is why using a finger is not ideal for assessing sharpness.

In the RHS magnification the edge can still have an edge and your finger can still feel an edge but it is not in the right place and this cutter will not cut as well as the LHS cutter. The thing to look for is "glint" , if you can see glint, the edge is not in the right place. Keep sharpening till your see no glint - the edge should look black. In my home shop I wear head magnifiers to make sure I have no glint.

Yes yes yes.

As a woodturner, I sharpen woodcutting tools (and then use them getting the feedback) many many dozens of times a day.

With any woodcutting tool, I strongly feel (from experience) that other than cutting with the tool which is the best information of course, feeling the edge with you finger does not provide nearly the same information as looking at the edge. Sometimes with a chainsaw cutter an old toothbrush helps brush away grit to see the edge more clearly.

The chrome bur makes it a little more tricky to look for "candle", and the toothbrush helps. Naturally one doesn't look at every tooth, but a random inspection keeps the process accurate.

For example, look at new oregons vs new stihls off the reel and you can see the difference in the edge, which translates to how well they cut when new.

 

[mtfallsmikey]

A grinder, used wrongly, can harden the cutting edge of the chain to a point where a file will not cut it anymore....we found that out on my 036 RSC chain.

 

[EzTrbo]

Ok, I've been reading all the things said and the grinder, hand file, free hand, etc etc debate. Friend of mine has been showing me how to file by hand, and I'm starting to get it down. Still not as good as what he does. I had two chains sharpened and one on the saw..dad ended up using one to tear down a small shed and rocked it pretty good. I thought I had it looking alright but after a few cuts into an oak yesterday I just gave up and swaped chains. Do i need to touch this one up with a grinder now that it has been rocked pretty good or what? I really want to be able to hand file all the time but is there some time where the grinder will come in handy, such as the rocking?


Thanks

Trbo

 

[edisto]

Ok, I've been reading all the things said and the grinder, hand file, free hand, etc etc debate. Friend of mine has been showing me how to file by hand, and I'm starting to get it down. Still not as good as what he does. I had two chains sharpened and one on the saw..dad ended up using one to tear down a small shed and rocked it pretty good. I thought I had it looking alright but after a few cuts into an oak yesterday I just gave up and swaped chains. Do i need to touch this one up with a grinder now that it has been rocked pretty good or what? I really want to be able to hand file all the time but is there some time where the grinder will come in handy, such as the rocking?

I bought a Granberg bar-mounted guide for that sort of thing, and to make sure everything is squared up when I've worn/sharpened a good bit of the way through the cutter, or get a used chain with a bar/saw purchase.

 

[Bushranger1]

First get the the correct files & file holders for the chains fitted to your saw.

A logger showed me a great way to sharpen chains in the field about 30 yrs ago & its worked for me ever since. The problem for me was always how to stop the saw moving if I did not have a vice.

Do a shallow plunge cut at a good working height either in a tree you are about to cut or in a stump that is close by. Now leave the saw in the cut & shut the motor down & apply the chain brake. If you have done the plunge cut correctly your saw should sit horizontal sticking out of the tree. Now just file the top teeth you can access & every time you need to rotate the chain to get at some more teeth take the saw out of the tree, release the brake, rotate the chain by hand (wearing gloves of course) then re-apply the brake & push the saw back in to do the next set of teeth. Note you do not need to restart the saw till your done.

A word of warning though! Plunge cutting is very dangerous unless you know how to do it correctly. Don't attempt it unless shown by a professional or you could be struck violently by your saw.

 

[aldo]

Don't forget to run your saw and let the bar oil running to let the grindings flick off before ripping back into the timber.

I quite enjoy filing, it works out a lot more economical as the shops around here seem to take a lot off the chains. If I ever let them do one agian I'll measure the teeth to see how much the steal off of me.

 

[EzTrbo]

I bought a Granberg bar-mounted guide for that sort of thing, and to make sure everything is squared up when I've worn/sharpened a good bit of the way through the cutter, or get a used chain with a bar/saw purchase.

Thanks, I will look into one.

Trbo

 

[edisto]

Thanks, I will look into one.

I got mine here.

 

[Henry G.]

The Husky roller guide is a snap to use, I can sharpen a 20" chain in about 5-7 minutes tops. Just snaps on and off the chain as long as its tight (like it should be). Has a depth gauge too, I think I paid $11.99 at Lowes?