chainsaw files and chain sharpening

[Swamp Yankee]

I've been wanting to ask the question regarding the 3/8ths Stihl chain for a while now. Actually came to the PC this time intent on starting the thread and here it is kinda. Stihl recomends the 13/64th file for their 3/8ths, nearly all other 3/8ths recomends the 7/32nds. I hand file (with a jig int eh shop, free hand in the field). I was real interested in the carbide cutting jig I saw ina thread a few days ago (http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/180488.htm), but it only comes in 7/32nds, and just been wanting to know....

What do most of the folks here run on their Stihl 3/bths chain 13/64ths or 7/32nds? Seen some ansewer this already in tis thread.

dw

Your choice, either works

13/64 works best for the first sharpening as it provides the little bit of extra clearance between the tooth and the raker making filing just a bit easier. After that you're good to go with either.

Take Care

 

[Cliff R]

"Hand filing is an art, if you cant get real good at it, dont bother doing it, keep your chain out of the dirt and buy more loops."

Well said. I've been running saws since mid 1970's, and hand sharpen all my chains, and do regular bar maintenence. I "touch-up" at every fuel stop, and after every outing.

I don't bother with extra loops, and refuse to take saws apart in the field. It's usually cold, and I'm trying to get a lot of wood cut, not sit on the tailgate working on a saw.

Touching up between tanks takes seconds. This gets more work done, and easier on the saw and the operator. It takes some practice to get good at hand filing. Buy a BIG shop vise, and a file guide to get started. It's much easier to duplicate the correct angles/depth with the bar held stationary, at least till you get the deal figured out. Once you have mastered the technique, one can touch-up a chain in the field in less than 2 minutes, and get right back to work again.

These days I have a nice arsenal of saws to choose from, so will usually take 4-5 saws on every outing. I cut till they are empty or dull, or both, then grab another saw. Before the next outing, I blow the chips out of the saws with compressed air, touch up the chains, grease the roller nose, tighten the chains, and top them off with fuel and oil.

We cut a LOT of wood here, and getting a lot of work done in the minimum amount of time is essential. I don't piss around will dull chains and saws that I'm having to "push" to get to cut. Hand sharpening adds another dimension to firewood cutting. Even so, I see a LOT of hand sharpened chains on customers saws that look like someone took a rock to them, and the angles are all over the place. This deal just isn't for everyone, but for serious enthusiasts, I highly recomend it......Cliff

 

[Chris-PA]

I've been sharpening blades on tools and knives since I was a kid, it's just something I find relaxing and enjoyable. Putting and edge on steel is something that takes some time to get a feel for. I've always sharpened chains by hand, but I never took the time to learn what I was doing until recently, and I'm still learning. I notice that on the latest literature from Oregon, the recommendations as to file size don't always match the rules listed here. They're recommending:

5/32" for 91VG (3/8LP), 90SG (3/8 Microlight), 33SL (0.325).
3/16 for 20BPX and 95VP (0.325)
7/32 for 72V (3/8)

I tried the 5/32 on some (modified) loops of 33SL I have and didn't really like the results.

One other thing I found is that you need good lighting. I thought I had a good light set up when I was working in the barn the other day, and was happy with the results. But when I got it out in the daylight later I was not impressed and had to go re-do it.

 

[deye223]

I was real interested in the carbide cutting jig I saw ina thread a few days ago (http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/180488.htm), but it only comes in 7/32nds
dw

got some news for ya the sharpener comes in 7/32 3/16 5/32 check the website

 

[outdoortype]

Hand filing maybe an art, but it can easily learned...

The filing jigs/aids work miracles. The Husky roller guide is invaluable. It's worth switching to Oregon or Husqvarna chains just to use this thing. I started out using the roller guide and a vice and now I can freehand chains without even using a vice. Also, the depth gauge tool is better than the ones made by Oregon or STihl.
I also agree that the file is key. Always take an extra file to the woods. A new sharp file just makes all the difference in the world. Like the others have said, touch up often. And I think this is where 3/8 pitch chain shines. There aren't as many teeth & depth gauges for a given bar length. And it just seems like the larger tooth gives more room to work under the top plate.

 

[jeepyfz450]

Why cant you use the husky roller type guide on Stihl chain?

 

[TK]

Why cant you use the husky roller type guide on Stihl chain?

It relies on the shape/style of the cutter to sit proper.

 

[TK]

These work well also

Non safety chain only I believe.

 

[Timbit]

I've been sharpening blades on tools and knives since I was a kid, it's just something I find relaxing and enjoyable. Putting and edge on steel is something that takes some time to get a feel for. I've always sharpened chains by hand, but I never took the time to learn what I was doing until recently, and I'm still learning. I notice that on the latest literature from Oregon, the recommendations as to file size don't always match the rules listed here. They're recommending:

5/32" for 91VG (3/8LP), 90SG (3/8 Microlight), 33SL (0.325).
3/16 for 20BPX and 95VP (0.325)
7/32 for 72V (3/8)

I tried the 5/32 on some (modified) loops of 33SL I have and didn't really like the results.

One other thing I found is that you need good lighting. I thought I had a good light set up when I was working in the barn the other day, and was happy with the results. But when I got it out in the daylight later I was not impressed and had to go re-do it.

Good call - I am a strong proponent of following manufacturers rec's. Oregon and STIHL give files to chain compatibilities. I hand file if the chain is left on the bar when I get back to the garage. Touching up at each fuelling is good idea, if you are inclined, but I tend to switch out the chain instead. I prefer bench grinding in the garge with tunes and beer after the kids go to bed. I use both Windsor and Oregon grinders and mostly Oregon wheels. If I hit a rock or fence I will remove the chain and use the ginder to even up the cutters on the whole chain. Both STIHL and Oregon give varying grinder settings for their chains. My settings are different for STIHL and Oregon chains. The cutter is designed to have a specific angle for optimum cutting. However it can be altered depending on what you are trying to accomplish by cutting. Competition cutters angle theirs differently than a firewood supplier. There are tolerances but there is give an take on performance.
My 2 cents, take it or leave it, check the manufacturers instructions for the chain you are using to find the correct starting point for file size and filing specs and follow it. Hope that helps. Happy cutting!

 

[CTYank]

It depends, but a .325" chain takes a 3/16" file and I think generally that a 3/8" chain takes the 7/32" file. The biggest thing I have found is to buy a Granberg File-N-Joint (or equivalent). Its a jig that clamps on the bar and holds all of the filing angles so that all of the teeth get sharpened the same way. It also keeps the cutter still while you file it. Its the only way I have been able to keep the left hand and right hand cutters the same length, so the chain will cut straight and not curl to one side or the other. The other important thing is to have a supply of sharp files. A brand new file gets the cutter razor sharp. After I've used a file half a dozen times or so, it starts getting dull and quits cutting. Then its time for a new file. I usually buy a box of a dozen files bevery time I get a new chain.

The filing jig and a steady supply of new files is the best combination I've found.

Yup. Been using the same one for 35+ yrs. Not so quick on tossing a file, though. I'd loosen the clamps on the file and rotate it 45 deg, then later another 45 deg. Just to use it all up. They're not free, you know.

 

[triumph79]

What files do i use for 7/16 and 1/2 chain

 

[super3]

What files do i use for 7/16 and 1/2 chain

1/4 5/16