compression testing

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I can see a problem with dissimilar rates of expansion bw the aluminum cylinder and the steel of the plug. But I would bet that unless the plug is over tightened that there is enough slop in the threads that any expansion could happen without harmful results.
 
Still MS250

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Show off. :cool:
 
It might be advanced enough now for use on aluminum. Most people won't use anti seize on aluminum though.


Adequate thread capture? What does that mean, can you explain please?

Nothing really I made it up. If the threads don't come out with the spark plug on a hot engine, the danger of stripping comes during and after reassembly while stuff is hot and the Aluminum is cooling more rapidly than the plug threads. Just a wild guess but I made this up too.
 
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Nothing really I made it up. If the threads don't come out with the spark plug on a hot engine, the danger of stripping comes during and after reassembly while stuff is hot and the Aluminum is cooling more rapidly than the plug threads. Just a wild guess but I made this up too.

At least you admit your full of shazit, I'll give ya credit for that. No BushApe I know would admit to that.

Truth is, I've taken plugs out of air cooled saws and snomobiles without any issues what so ever. Worst that's ever happened is burnt fingers. If you don't over torque them then you won't have any issues. End of story IMO.
 
And watch this saw dude in his "different zone" (fast forward to start at minute 5:45 or so), as he makes 29 total pulls!



It only takes three to four pulls to know if you've got a problem...squirt in some 50W motor oil, if'n you want bragging rights.

It's also a good thing to note that his screw in gauge threads had adequate capture throughout the testing.:surprised3:
 
And watch this saw dude in his "different zone" (fast forward to start at minute 5:45 or so), as he makes 29 total pulls!



It only takes three to four pulls to know if you've got a problem...squirt in some 50W motor oil, if'n you want bragging rights.

It's also a good thing to note that his screw in gauge threads had adequate capture throughout the testing.

What a tool
 
It might be advanced enough now for use on aluminum. Most people won't use anti seize on aluminum though.




Nothing really I made it up. If the threads don't come out with the spark plug on a hot engine, the danger of stripping comes during and after reassembly while stuff is hot and the Aluminum is cooling more rapidly than the plug threads. Just a wild guess but I made this up too.
 
As long as the tester insert has a schrader valve at the tip end & about a foot of hose or less, you're good to go.

You normally get what you pay for concerning test equipment, accurate gauges are priced accordingly.
 
This is quite possibly the dumbest question ever asked I am sure but here goes.
I have thought about buying a tester some day but you all say be sure it has the /a Schrader valve near the tip. When you say tip which end are you referring to? The end by the gauge I assume,.. but I have to ask. I understand the shorter the hose ( to a point) means a better reading. But " tip" has me guessing. Thanks Jeff
 
This is quite possibly the dumbest question ever asked I am sure but here goes.
I have thought about buying a tester some day but you all say be sure it has the /a Schrader valve near the tip. When you say tip which end are you referring to? The end by the gauge I assume,.. but I have to ask. I understand the shorter the hose ( to a point) means a better reading. But " tip" has me guessing. Thanks Jeff
the end of
This is quite possibly the dumbest question ever asked I am sure but here goes.
I have thought about buying a tester some day but you all say be sure it has the /a Schrader valve near the tip. When you say tip which end are you referring to? The end by the gauge I assume,.. but I have to ask. I understand the shorter the hose ( to a point) means a better reading. But " tip" has me guessing. Thanks Jeff
the end of the hose where it screws in the cylinder
 
This is quite possibly the dumbest question ever asked I am sure but here goes.
I have thought about buying a tester some day but you all say be sure it has the /a Schrader valve near the tip. When you say tip which end are you referring to? The end by the gauge I assume,.. but I have to ask. I understand the shorter the hose ( to a point) means a better reading. But " tip" has me guessing. Thanks Jeff

Not at all, if the little check valve was at the guage end, it would add the hose volume to your combustion chamber volume and make your reading lower than it really is. It lowers the compression ratio.
 
But one thing the original poster should know, a compression gauge won't work on most of those old Pioneers, if that is what he is asking for. What models do you have?
 

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