Why would you want the wallowed out part on top? Isn't that where most of the pressure would be? In my case, It doesn't really matter since both sides are wallowed out.
That is how I usually tighten the chain. I hold up on the bar, tighten until the chain hits the bar and snug everything up. Sometimes I tighten just a hair more.
I don't think I am going to use that bar for any heavy cutting until I get a new one unless something comes up and I need to use it. I will still do some limbing with it but that is about it, maybe keep it for a spare.
Anybody have any experience with bars from Tractor Supply? Or would I be better off getting one from Baileys?
The bar is pretty bad mainly lack of maintenance remember to de burr the edge and rail and chain wear will be minimal. Also get a putty knive and clean grooves regular as the oiling holes stop up with trash then a build up begins transferring into the groove. Take a putty knife brace bar on a firm surface and run the putty knife down the groove away from you, it won't take long to see what I mean. If you use that bar lightly grind that burr offor hand file it from the side of bar. You just want the bur off or the corner leaving the part the chain rests on alone!
File's most are made to cut one way dragging backwards dulls its cutting edge remember to tap the file on a hard surface after several strokes to dislodge dust which will build up and also dull file!
Too tight likely! If chain is cold you should be able to lightly pull it in mid bar out of groove then let go and it fall back in place. If you have to pull harder its too tight. Also when hot just snug no extra needed.
I have been using a Harbor Freight electric sharpener for a while and it did a really good job. But now it will not sharpen a chain for nothing. I don't know if it is me doing something wrong or the sharpener is a piece of junk.
Anyways, I am going back to hand filing and wanted to see what you guys think of my sharpening. The chain is a .325 pitch, .50 gauge and full chisel using a 3/16 file. After you sharpen, do you remove the burr on the flat side of the cutter? If so, how?
Here are some pics:
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I will definitely read that, lots of good info in there. I am assuming that had nothing to do with double guard bars. I did notice that in the troubleshooting section, it said worn rails like in my case can be caused by limbing. I do a little bit of limbing, not all the time. Just to get the limbs out of the way of tractors and such while doing field work. I am in the bucket of a tractor and sometimes I have to reach to be able to get to them so I am using the end of the bar more. Maybe that is part of my problem.
I will admit I have not done much in the way or de burring a bar. Can I just use a flat file to de burr the edges? But I don't understand how a burr on the outside edge of the bar can affect the chain. I do clean out the bar groove from time to time. I use a small screwdriver ground down to fit in the groove.
I do clean out my file many times during sharpening.
I really don't think my chain is to tight but I could be wrong. I do not have to pull on the chain that hard.
Tzed, I tried sending you a pm but it would not let me. Anyways, what is the deal with the pic in your sig? What angle is that supposed to be?
I will definitely read that, lots of good info in there. I am assuming that had nothing to do with double guard bars. I did notice that in the troubleshooting section, it said worn rails like in my case can be caused by limbing. I do a little bit of limbing, not all the time. Just to get the limbs out of the way of tractors and such while doing field work. I am in the bucket of a tractor and sometimes I have to reach to be able to get to them so I am using the end of the bar more. Maybe that is part of my problem.
I will admit I have not done much in the way or de burring a bar. Can I just use a flat file to de burr the edges? But I don't understand how a burr on the outside edge of the bar can affect the chain. I do clean out the bar groove from time to time. I use a small screwdriver ground down to fit in the groove.
I do clean out my file many times during sharpening.
I really don't think my chain is to tight but I could be wrong. I do not have to pull on the chain that hard.
Tzed, I tried sending you a pm but it would not let me. Anyways, what is the deal with the pic in your sig? What angle is that supposed to be?
The cutter in my sigpic was ground on a dedicated square chisel chain grinder. Square chisel chain may also be made with a double-bevel chisel bit file. It is a somewhat advanced technique. If you keep trying with the round filing you will get the hang of it.
BTW, the reason you never drag a file backwards is because it ruins the relief. Relief is what allows the cutting edge to work. The reason that the back of the cutter on saw chain is lower than the cutting edge is to provide relief. When the relief on a file is taken away by back dragging it will refuse to cut.
What angle is that pic taken at? Is the front side of the tooth facing towards the you? That pic just looks like an illusion to me.
I always knew to never drag the file backwards, just never knew why. But I do now.
All the silver is inside side plate and underneath top plate. The plus side of this type grinding is the side plate is much less blunt than round ground. The minus side is grinder expense/grinding and filing difficulty. Square files are more expensive but will last a long time once you get the hang of it.What angle is that pic taken at? Is the front side of the tooth facing towards the you? That pic just looks like an illusion to me.
I always knew to never drag the file backwards, just never knew why. But I do now.
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This may help:
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You know 30 years as a pro tree man and I've yet to try sharpening square might use this as guide and give it a try
You know 30 years as a pro tree man and I've yet to try sharpening square might use this as guide and give it a try
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