DIY Barrel Stoves...

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You might consider going to smaller diameter pipe inside the barrel so that you have a bigger heat transfer surface to really suck the heat out.

Definitely a consideration to keep in mind. I thought about that initially, but I found a 6" duct-booster fan for cheap when I was ordering parts so I am going to start with that. However, I am planning to position the 6" tube dead center of the upper barrel so that I can go in and install some smaller tubes around it if I feel I need more heat. Thanks for the suggestion.
 
I just had a thought about barrel stoves. I have the Vogelzang single barrel kit and it seems a lot of heat goes right up the pipe, even with the damper closed down. What would happen if we let the stove pipe go right down into the barrel about a foot? Kind of like the new DIY outdoor boilers are made these days. I wonder if this would help the efficiency of the stove.
 
Probably lots of smoke out of the door anytime you open it.

My buddy has a homemade stove made from a chunk of pipe and the door is too high. Every time you open it up there's smoke everywhere.
 
I just had a thought about barrel stoves. I have the Vogelzang single barrel kit and it seems a lot of heat goes right up the pipe, even with the damper closed down. What would happen if we let the stove pipe go right down into the barrel about a foot? Kind of like the new DIY outdoor boilers are made these days. I wonder if this would help the efficiency of the stove.

I have thought about those barrel stoves a lot. Say you started with one with a totally removable top lid so you can work freely inside. Ok, now add in two countered baffles a couple inches apart, so the gases have to travel back and forth inside before exiting the normally installed exhaust. Bottom baffle has the opening at the rear, top baffle at the front, then gases go across the very top of the inside of the barrel and out. Leave the gaps decent for the baffles. Now weld the lid with the door installed back to the barrel, it has to block that top baffle enough to not leak, or add an additional smoke barrier plate there.

I think you would get a lot more efficient burning inside the barrel and more heat out of it and not going up the stack. You could still have a normal top barrel as well, just make sure whatever chimney/draw you have is good enough for an additional two turns inside the stove.
 
I have thought about those barrel stoves a lot. Say you started with one with a totally removable top lid so you can work freely inside. Ok, now add in two countered baffles a couple inches apart, so the gases have to travel back and forth inside before exiting the normally installed exhaust. Bottom baffle has the opening at the rear, top baffle at the front, then gases go across the very top of the inside of the barrel and out. Leave the gaps decent for the baffles. Now weld the lid with the door installed back to the barrel, it has to block that top baffle enough to not leak, or add an additional smoke barrier plate there.

I think you would get a lot more efficient burning inside the barrel and more heat out of it and not going up the stack. You could still have a normal top barrel as well, just make sure whatever chimney/draw you have is good enough for an additional two turns inside the stove.
That's a good idea Zogger.But the stove operator must not allow the fire to go crazy so as not to cause the baffle(s) to sag.
 
That's a good idea Zogger.But the stove operator must not allow the fire to go crazy so as not to cause the baffle(s) to sag.

Ya, thought of that, would need cross and vertical support brackets as well as using some heavier gauge steel for the baffles themselves. And then maybe start with something like a propane tank instead of a normal oil drum? Some sort of barrel shape heavier gauge, as mentioned elsewhere, large steel casing/pipe.
 
Got my double barrel built and installed a couple weekends ago, forgot all about this thread. I don't have the additional heat exchanger installed yet (haven't convinced my uncle to come by for a welding visit), but everything else is running smoothly. I had a short enough run of pipe that I was able to avoid having to use a ceiling support box, and instead just cut my pass-through very close to the OD of the chimney pipe. Once I get the exchanger and associated parts installed I will start up a new thread with the pics I'm sure I'll get bashed on for not having here yet.
 
I just had a thought about barrel stoves. I have the Vogelzang single barrel kit and it seems a lot of heat goes right up the pipe, even with the damper closed down. What would happen if we let the stove pipe go right down into the barrel about a foot? Kind of like the new DIY outdoor boilers are made these days. I wonder if this would help the efficiency of the stove.
not on the botttom drum. but if you added the second barrel,,yes..been there, even now..
 
I have been using the same barrels in a double 35 gallon stove for 31 years. Just last year tore down and did an inspect and reseal, only problem found was slight warp on one side of the bottom barrel. The stove was built with the Stotz kit which was UL approved and my insurance company covered it installed in the basement. I only keep about 1 inch of ash in the bottom and have not had a problem with burn out or controlling the fire. I burn black locust and can hold heat all night with no problem. I do clean all the ash out of the bottom once the heating season is over, read many years ago that ash or sand left in it through the summer months will collect moisture from the damp air and cause the barrel to rust.
 
The Stotz kits are nice. It a shame they aren't still being sold. I've got one in the shop out back and had another that I gave to a friend. Mine are both double 55 gallon.
 
Del,
Do you have the automatic draft control? Its the bomb once you figure out where to set for the temps you want.
 
Del,
Do you have the automatic draft control? Its the bomb once you figure out where to set for the temps you want.

I do have one. It fits on the door over the air entrance opening.

I also had a catalytic kit that Sotz sold from back in the eighties.

I thought Sotz was off the market.

Do you know if they are still being sold?
 
They are out of business from all the research I have done. I too had the catalytic converter, never did see the benefits they were advertised to produce. I just last year remover it from the stove even though it hadn't been used in years.
 
Olyman,
It is correct but they have been out of business since mid 90's I beleave.
 
Up at our old Moose and some years Mouse Camp, we installed a baffle in the barrel stove, cut down greatly on the wood consumption and much less heat was going up the chimney. Was always fun watching the new guy put his "new" boots near the stove to dry them out, only to find a molten pile of rubber and leather 20 minutes later, stunk like hell but was always good for a laugh.
 
Up at our old Moose and some years Mouse Camp, we installed a baffle in the barrel stove, cut down greatly on the wood consumption and much less heat was going up the chimney. Was always fun watching the new guy put his "new" boots near the stove to dry them out, only to find a molten pile of rubber and leather 20 minutes later, stunk like hell but was always good for a laugh.
built my own dbl barrel stove some years back. friend came home from work,,to ask que.. he damned near put his back right against the stove,,with a insulated coverall on!!! above three minutes later,,he jumped away from the stove,,and some smoke was coming off of his coverall!!!!!!!!!!! clown..said,, "I didn't think it was that hot"...yeah....
 
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