Dolmar 5100, Another one down.

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"I think your only option is to go through Dolmar. One thing that helps is deleting the carb compensating function. Do this by removing the foam filter sealing ring that sits on top of the carb, and blocking off the hole in the bottom of the filter."

My dealer did this to my saw when I bought it. I have had no problems with it. My compression is 210psi.



Is the sealing ring put back on and does it seal anything?Did the dealer mod void your warranty because I would think it would?
I would like to see how a stock NE346xp with 210psi. would run:hmm3grin2orange:

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This is the only pic I have of the 5100 carb & air filter.I sold mine in favor of a ported NE346xp and don't remember how things were put together on it.I would like to run a ported 5100.
 
Is the sealing ring put back on and does it seal anything?Did the dealer mod void your warranty because I would think it would?
I would like to see how a stock NE346xp with 210psi. would run:hmm3grin2orange: .....

They don't, but compression is only one of several factors, regarding how a saw runs. ;)
 
The last 026 carb kit I got from the dealer was close to $40.00:msp_confused: ....

I understand that it often is cheaper to buy carb kits by carb brand/model, than from the saw brand - and assume Stihl has the highest price, as usual on parts....
 
Update:

The saw lives. It took me about 2 hours to clean the cylinder. It was on the hairy edge of savable. Sorry, no pics. I used acid first, then a ball hone, then sand paper, then a ball hone, then scotch brite, then a ball hone, then more acid, then more sand paper, then I washed it.....then I started over....you get the idea.

I found this saw a bit more difficult to work on than it should have been. Dolmar used very shallow t27 heads on the screws. As a result I had to press very hard on the ratchet to keep the tool engaged with the screw. Also, they seemed to put loctite on every screw. The combination made for lots of trouble for a saw that is a year or two old. The carb box area is a pain. The cylinder needed to be loose to install the intake boot. The muffler is held on with 6 screws....6, yes 6. After market parts are not available.

The piston needed to be de-burred though it was an OEM.

The supplier I used needs to go out of business. It took 2 months from the order date to get the parts (piston, base gasket, carb kit, rim). That was the first and last time I will ever use psep dot biz. What little customer service they had was inexcusably bad.

I should be able to score some wood by Tuesday to try it out. At first blush it seems heavier than my 026. It may actually be lighter but it feels heavier in my hands. I think the balance needs to be addressed.

In the end, I think this will be a nice saw. But, given how this saw came apart, I will never buy a Dolmar (unless something changes).
 
Update:

The saw lives. It took me about 2 hours to clean the cylinder. It was on the hairy edge of savable. Sorry, no pics. I used acid first, then a ball hone, then sand paper, then a ball hone, then scotch brite, then a ball hone, then more acid, then more sand paper, then I washed it.....then I started over....you get the idea.

I found this saw a bit more difficult to work on than it should have been. Dolmar used very shallow t27 heads on the screws. As a result I had to press very hard on the ratchet to keep the tool engaged with the screw. Also, they seemed to put loctite on every screw. The combination made for lots of trouble for a saw that is a year or two old. The carb box area is a pain. The cylinder needed to be loose to install the intake boot. The muffler is held on with 6 screws....6, yes 6. After market parts are not available.

The piston needed to be de-burred though it was an OEM.

The supplier I used needs to go out of business. It took 2 months from the order date to get the parts (piston, base gasket, carb kit, rim). That was the first and last time I will ever use psep dot biz. What little customer service they had was inexcusably bad.

I should be able to score some wood by Tuesday to try it out. At first blush it seems heavier than my 026. It may actually be lighter but it feels heavier in my hands. I think the balance needs to be addressed.

In the end, I think this will be a nice saw. But, given how this saw came apart, I will never buy a Dolmar (unless something changes).

I will pay for parts and shipping......
 
Sooooo..... your complaining that Dolmar used loctite, bolted the muffler on too well, you used a crappy torx driver, and you ordered parts from an iffy company instead of one of our reliable sponsors. Your right, Dolmar does suck. Sheesh


BTW, the 5100 is a fair bit heavier than your 026. Also the piston is a Mahle, same as everyone uses else except the newer Stihls.

Best of luck to ya.
 
......

I should be able to score some wood by Tuesday to try it out. At first blush it seems heavier than my 026. It may actually be lighter but it feels heavier in my hands. I think the balance needs to be addressed.

.....

It is about a pound heavier than an 026, so no wonder it feels heavier......:msp_smile:
 
These saws are known to come from the factory excessively lean. Enrichening the carb should be the only thing needed to a new 5100. They are otherwise really well built.

That hadn't mattered if all dealers did their job, but Dolmar failed to make sure they did.

That wasn't the only issue though, as should be well known by now.....;)
 
Sooooo..... your complaining that Dolmar used loctite, bolted the muffler on too well, you used a crappy torx driver, and you ordered parts from an iffy company instead of one of our reliable sponsors. Your right, Dolmar does suck. Sheesh


BTW, the 5100 is a fair bit heavier than your 026. Also the piston is a Mahle, same as everyone uses else except the newer Stihls.

Best of luck to ya.

My Torx driver is a gear wrench brand that is nearly brand new. This is a high quality driver that I have been extremely pleased with. The bolts are crap. There is very little height to the torx drive in the head. The combination of that, and the loctite meant this saw was difficult to break down. I was merely saying that this saw was sooo close to being a very good one, but Dolmar made some bad decisions. Had they used better bolts, the loctite would have been a welcome addition.

Had someone wrenched on this saw even once with an iffy driver and I would have had to drill out and re-tap all the bolts.
 
My Torx driver is a gear wrench brand that is nearly brand new. This is a high quality driver that I have been extremely pleased with. The bolts are crap. There is very little height to the torx drive in the head. The combination of that, and the loctite meant this saw was difficult to break down. I was merely saying that this saw was sooo close to being a very good one, but Dolmar made some bad decisions. Had they used better bolts, the loctite would have been a welcome addition.

Had someone wrenched on this saw even once with an iffy driver and I would have had to drill out and re-tap all the bolts.

Are the front of the Torx bits rounded out, seen this a lot which makes the bit feel like it's not in the bolt head very far. I have read many post on these saws and have wrenched on the one I got and see nothing wrong with the bolts.
 
The only time I've seen this as a problem is when the bolt head was full of junk.

I will see if I can get the pokey end of a dial caliper down there to measure the depth. It is not nearly as deep as the Stihl or baileys bolts I have used. The saw had relatively few hours and was nearly perfectly clean.
 
Like the others are saying, I have never had a problem with Dolmars bolts. Get a Wiha T-handle t-27 from Bailey's and don't look back.
 
My Torx driver is a gear wrench brand that is nearly brand new. This is a high quality driver that I have been extremely pleased with. The bolts are crap. There is very little height to the torx drive in the head. The combination of that, and the loctite meant this saw was difficult to break down. I was merely saying that this saw was sooo close to being a very good one, but Dolmar made some bad decisions. Had they used better bolts, the loctite would have been a welcome addition.

Had someone wrenched on this saw even once with an iffy driver and I would have had to drill out and re-tap all the bolts.

gear wrench= Taiwan/or china
 

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