D&B Mack
Sawin Wit It!
Maybe, I am not going to be towing mine. I am going to try it out at our house and then take it to the wood yard for working. So I like the balloon tires for moving it around.
DR Rapid Fire Rack & Pinion
- Thread starter VTWoodChucker
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Maybe, I am not going to be towing mine. I am going to try it out at our house and then take it to the wood yard for working. So I like the balloon tires for moving it around.
CampHamp
ArboristSite Lurker
Here are pictures of the machine. You can see the handles that were added after they filmed their marketing videos. I included a close-up picture of one. It looks easy to swing out of the way (I didn't try yet, though). You can move it pretty easily on the flat but it's heavy and hills will be tough - it's staying put in my case.
I started it up for a test run, even in the rain. Directions say to run it at full throttle. No wobbling. It went easily through the few logs I had at hand (one of them was gnarly, but only 8" across). The ram seems to move a bit slower than the SpeedPro I tested. The feel of the engage/disengage seemed more crisp to me - maybe it's because the flywheels have lower RPM's the way that I tested or maybe it is the different lever systems (?). I'd like to try the SpeedPro at lower throttle to see if that makes a difference (someone here said they like running their's slower - so if you test one, try it at slower speeds).
Let me know if there are any questions. We'll get more challenging stuff through it this weekend and will take a video.
Thanks to all the members for sharing your thoughts on this great site!
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I started it up for a test run, even in the rain. Directions say to run it at full throttle. No wobbling. It went easily through the few logs I had at hand (one of them was gnarly, but only 8" across). The ram seems to move a bit slower than the SpeedPro I tested. The feel of the engage/disengage seemed more crisp to me - maybe it's because the flywheels have lower RPM's the way that I tested or maybe it is the different lever systems (?). I'd like to try the SpeedPro at lower throttle to see if that makes a difference (someone here said they like running their's slower - so if you test one, try it at slower speeds).
Let me know if there are any questions. We'll get more challenging stuff through it this weekend and will take a video.
Thanks to all the members for sharing your thoughts on this great site!
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D&B Mack
Sawin Wit It!
I'm glad someone finally bought one of these things, put it through its paces and see how she does. I'd really like to see some video of stuff similar to what I posted of my Speedpro after I modded it.
being towable and almost a grand less was the deciding factor for me choosing the speedpro. the DR warranty/no fault return policy definitely takes the cake.
Best of luck with it.
being towable and almost a grand less was the deciding factor for me choosing the speedpro. the DR warranty/no fault return policy definitely takes the cake.
Best of luck with it.
CampHamp
ArboristSite Lurker
You'll get them. I didn't ask for them or pay anything extra. The DR guy on this site said it was a late addition to the design, so I was expecting them.
CampHamp
ArboristSite Lurker
Tough question. I flip-flopped on it.
There are two "unknowns" here: (1) we don't know how long the average Rapid Fire will last, and (2) we don't know how long Super Split will remain in business.
Conversely, I do expect the SS machines to last (good track record) and I expect DR to be around for a while (good sales engine, good service, good products, many products). I'd be covered under warranty if the DR machine crapped out (5 yrs coverage for an extra $100) but it really blows if you need proprietary parts (rack or pinion) after a company goes under. I'd be afraid of SS going under in this new market and so my answer is that I would still do the DR purchase.
Without a patent, SS probably needs better marketing to keep the same sales stream. Maybe there'll be an acquisition by someone who does that well to give them a boost? Then you'd have a different answer from me to your question. :msp_wink:
sunfish
Fish Head
I don't see SS going out of business, or changing much. Like you said, they have a good track record, very good. And have been in business a long time, I believe over 20 years now. They are a small company and sell machines as fast as they make em, two week delivery in the summer and up to two months in the Fall and winter is what I've been told. Parts should not be a problem either way, I believe the rack and pinion and bearings are stock parts that can be got from most industrial supply type places. The thing is also super simple and easily fixed if needs be.
EXCALIBER
ArboristSite Guru
Seems these things work great in straight grained hardwood with out any crotches in them, but how does one of these do with a 20 or 30 inch piece of wet cottonwood? If I had straight grained hardwood I could split most of that with my Fiskars and not have need for the splitter. So anybody spit anything that is actually hard to split like wet cottonwood?
Dalmatian90
Addicted to ArboristSite
Looking up, green cottonwood is 58# per c.f.
30" diameter x 20" long log...let's see that's (pi x r^2) * length...((3.14 * (15 * 15)) * 20)) / 1,728 c.i./c.f. = 8 c.f. by my math. 8 * 58 = 464# ...so I'm gonna go out on a limb and say there's not many folks picking those monsters up and putting 'em on their kinetic splitters.
Sounds like the realm of vertical splitters, log lifts, and noodling to me.
Unless you have a large production table or platform like the LogRite trailer for the SuperSplit and you're using a tractor to load the logs up on it.
For smaller pieces it's still an interesting question.
30" diameter x 20" long log...let's see that's (pi x r^2) * length...((3.14 * (15 * 15)) * 20)) / 1,728 c.i./c.f. = 8 c.f. by my math. 8 * 58 = 464# ...so I'm gonna go out on a limb and say there's not many folks picking those monsters up and putting 'em on their kinetic splitters.
Sounds like the realm of vertical splitters, log lifts, and noodling to me.
Unless you have a large production table or platform like the LogRite trailer for the SuperSplit and you're using a tractor to load the logs up on it.
For smaller pieces it's still an interesting question.
CampHamp
ArboristSite Lurker
As requested, here's a look at the RapidFire in action.
I didn't have anything interesting to split lying around, so I cut down a Beech tree yesterday to feed this new machine. I decided to cut the butt end first instead of the crotch pieces further up the tree. We'll get try the crotch pieces later this week. However, this piece is bigger than I usually work with and it had some character to it: it was live wet beech, it had two center eyes (must have had two leads as a youngster and they merged together over the years), it had a few knots as well that were about 2" in diameter. Not something I would like cutting by hand and is a good early test for me.
I'm taking it cautiously, you'll notice. I have tons of respect for the forces at work here and I'm not comfortable yet having only done a few much easier pieces with this splitter so far. Sorry for the watermark in the video - it was a surprise to me when I was done assembling the video.
I marked with text in the video just before two tougher splits where the log rode up on the wedge a couple inches. These two high riders were tougher cuts through knots or curvy grain. I'm not sure if there is a technique for keeping these down on the wedge, but I expect it is just a matter of running them back through.
Working the rounds off the back of my UTV is going to work well. Instead of leaving large pieces on the table, I learned to pull these right back to the tailgate as a working table.
I don't like how the guides on either side of the beam prevent me from sliding splits right back and around without lifting them up over these rails. You'll see I'm fighting with these early on in the video. They may help center rounds (tdb), but I'm not convinced it will be worth the hassle.
This splitting is really fun. I felt safe and will be much more productive than swinging the axe.
[video=youtube;iFiPurAkeso]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iFiPurAkeso[/video]
I didn't have anything interesting to split lying around, so I cut down a Beech tree yesterday to feed this new machine. I decided to cut the butt end first instead of the crotch pieces further up the tree. We'll get try the crotch pieces later this week. However, this piece is bigger than I usually work with and it had some character to it: it was live wet beech, it had two center eyes (must have had two leads as a youngster and they merged together over the years), it had a few knots as well that were about 2" in diameter. Not something I would like cutting by hand and is a good early test for me.
I'm taking it cautiously, you'll notice. I have tons of respect for the forces at work here and I'm not comfortable yet having only done a few much easier pieces with this splitter so far. Sorry for the watermark in the video - it was a surprise to me when I was done assembling the video.
I marked with text in the video just before two tougher splits where the log rode up on the wedge a couple inches. These two high riders were tougher cuts through knots or curvy grain. I'm not sure if there is a technique for keeping these down on the wedge, but I expect it is just a matter of running them back through.
Working the rounds off the back of my UTV is going to work well. Instead of leaving large pieces on the table, I learned to pull these right back to the tailgate as a working table.
I don't like how the guides on either side of the beam prevent me from sliding splits right back and around without lifting them up over these rails. You'll see I'm fighting with these early on in the video. They may help center rounds (tdb), but I'm not convinced it will be worth the hassle.
This splitting is really fun. I felt safe and will be much more productive than swinging the axe.
[video=youtube;iFiPurAkeso]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iFiPurAkeso[/video]
mooseracing
ArboristSite Operative
Freshly cut wet stuff, or down and dry?
CampHamp
ArboristSite Lurker
The wedge is 6 1/4" high. Maybe the engineers think that it's better to ensure a clean pass through to keep from having too much pressure build up (?) I'll see if this riding-up recurs with other pieces (I expect so). Wonder what the SS and SpeedPro wedge heights are and if these users get this behavior?
D&B Mack
Sawin Wit It!
SpeeCo is 8" (according to spec page), not sure about the SS.
speedpro's is 8" and I think it makes a big difference. we have had a few that don't split cleanly with some nasty twisted hickory but I haven't split any elm yet with mine. we keep a hatchet close by to get the strings.
millerhill
ArboristSite Lurker
It's the super split private labeled. Yes they're fast, but along with fast you also get dangerous. I wouldn't own one for that reason. The video is pretty funny. Total splitting speed (how fast your wood pile gets to its destination) does not start or end with the splitting process itself, so speed is relative for sure.
You clearly don't know what you're talking about. Why don't you try learning a few facts before you go dancing all over your keyboard.
Mr. HE
Locust Cutter
Sawing for Sanity
A hatchet by the splitter can be a real lifesaver. Even in hardwood, it's handy as all hell. Can be a back-saver too'.
1. Is that courtesy of Paul or an analogy?
2&3. How would it more or less dangerous than any other splitter on the market? Complacency can be just as dangerous if not more so than "speed" or more accurately velocity. I wish I had access to the studies to accurately reference them for justification, but there have been multiple studies across various activities that have shown, on average, people tend to pay more attention to what they're doing when there is a higher chance of injury. IE; Driving faster, flying aerobatics, etc. If anything I'd argue that conventional Hyd splitters are FAR more dangerous, especially the slower ones, as you're far more likely to be momentarily distracted from the task at hand, quite possibly at the most in-opportune time. I know that I've looked away several times while splitting and never really thought about it, until now. I think that a S.S. or a similar concept would be a lot safer in the long run, as you could pre-position the log against the wedge before activating the ram, leaving your hands free and CLEAR of the line of fire.
You clearly don't know what you're talking about. Why don't you try learning a few facts before you go dancing all over your keyboard.
Mr. HE
Why not give him the chance to explain himself, ask questions or offer guidance before summarily running him down, especially in a public forum? The best analogy I ever received about being a NCO that was worth something, was to praise publicly and admonish privately, albeit in slightly different vernacular. I'm finding as I get a bit older, that goes for parenting, mentoring, and generally being a better person to be around.
