Falling pics 11/25/09

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Both of them are tight

Make sure your connections at the batt are good and shiny. Iv seen numerouse rigs with a "dead batterey" or some other bad part when it was just bad connections..
Look on the bright side, when I replace the starter in my ford,(86 fox body), I have to loosten the passenger side long tube completely, jack the motor up a few inches, remove the header, and then loosen the 2 bolts that hold the starter on... I have a gear reduction mini starter I need to put in, but I dread it too much....
 
Could be the solenoid. Seen the contacts inside the solenoid (on the starter) burnt/corroded before. That'll make it behave like described.

Could be one of the cables. I've seen cables have an internal break while still 'looking' fine. The strands will be broken at some point under the insulation. You can usually find the break by feel. I cut one open at a 'flexy' spot and found broken strands with corrosion at the break.

Also clean/sand the connections at each end of every cable.

OK.
I feel like I've just received a sentence. But I do appreciate it. Very much.
 
If you have a multi-meter, check for a voltage drop of more then .5V between anything in the starting circuit. Both the positive and negative side. This will need to be done while cranking. Good luck.
 
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OK.
I feel like I've just received a sentence. But I do appreciate it. Very much.

You'll get it. Check all the connections first. Then the cables. Then go from there...

The main pos cable (connects to both batts) is expensive IIRC. Hopefully it's just the connections. You can also find a bad cable by trying to crank it over for several seconds, then feeling along the cables for a hot spot (don't get burned, and ABSOLUTELY remove your watch and any rings from your hands for safety). The cables most often seem to fail within a few inches of the battery post...
 
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if you have a GOOD set of jumper cables ,go from your battery to the block neg and pos of starter direct ,then jump sol with a screwdriver ,that will tell you if starters bad or cables
 
You'll get it. Check all the connections first. Then the cables. Then go from there...

The main pos cable (connects to both batts) is expensive IIRC. Hopefully it's just the connections. You can also find a bad cable by trying to crank it over for several seconds, then feeling along the cables for a hot spot (don't get burned, and ABSOLUTELY remove your watch and any rings from your hands for safety). The cables most often seem to fail within a few inches of the battery post...

The main positive cable terminal on the starboard side battery is cracked at the head of the bolt side. But. I cleaned it all nice and shiny and got it nice and tight.
 
I definetly fall in the production
As opposed to maintenance category.
Anyone need a ditch dug thru shot rock with a pick and shovel. I'll trade ya.

Gotta be a good mechanic nearby you that you could bribe with some :cheers: to help you out...

if you have a GOOD set of jumper cables ,go from your battery to the block neg and pos of starter direct ,then jump sol with a screwdriver ,that will tell you if starters bad or cables

I put a sizeable notch on a wrench doing that trick with my '86 diesel Ford. Lots of current coming from two big Interstates.
 
Just a thought but if the terminal is cracked it might not be putting out the proper voltage
 
It's the terminal itself that's cracked? How does the cable running from that terminal look/feel?

I dunno. Its in a black plastic flex protector sheath. . Its been cracked for quite a while but with all the moving it, cleaning and retightening it kinda stretched to the point of breaking yesterday
 
TB, I think that if your terminal is cracked...that is your problem. Had that happen on my truck once, thought it should work even cracked...but no go.
 
Tramp I came home black with grease twice last week after putting my newly rebuilt fuel inj pump and a few other things back on the machine. Man I hate turnin wrenches too! Especially when the clock is tickin while losin money.

Digital Voltmeter my man! That will answer a lot of questions with out ever takin a wrench to it. Checking for voltage/continuity saves a lot of time. I've always got one in the truck along with the rest of my traveling tool box. Otherwise, jumper wires are quick and dirty. ####ing electrical problems are a #####.
 
Tramp and Bitz, I feel your frustration. I woke up early 'cause I had a lot of mowing to do, fired up the tractor, engaged the rear hydraulic control to put the wings down on my old Rhino flex wing mower. Loud crack. Got out and saw the cross in the driveshaft between the CV and the gearbox of the starboard side wing was busted. Unfortunately, it is asymmetric, and all locally (this morning) available options weren't. The good news, landowne moody ordered me one (80 bucks) to arrive thursday. The pastures will have to wait. I'm sorry to hear you are suffering down time
 
So, I thot about the getting someone to help me. A good friend is a mechanic for the State. He had a couch that he just bought and needed to be moved. :msp_thumbup:
So we did the couch and he came and helped me. We replaced the cracked terminal with a new one. Cleaned and replaced the ground strap to the block.. checked for any broke/ damaged battery wires replaced the starter relay with a new one tested the existing other old battery on a battery load tester. It showed good. . I fired up my International dump truck, pulled it along side and put the jumpers to it. . Before we started all this it would turn over. Now all it does is make the relay/ solenoid click.



And this was going on while wewere doing all this.
I would say I am officially stumped.
Oh and we tried cross parking the terminals on the starter. Nothin.
 
I don't wanna sound rude but there isn't some kinda black box comp thingy that may be needing reset? I had similar probs once and it turned out that it was the comp thingy. Just a thing that came to mind may not be anything
 

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