Falling pics 11/25/09

Shop deals on ebay
Advertise with us
shop deals on amazon
Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
attachment.php
 
1270d said:
What lengths are normal for the pnw? Are they bucked shorter at the mill or processes as delivered?
Click to expand...

The trim allowances for softwoods are well-covered up there. I have here the card for one of our local hardwood mills. Here are the lengths used hereabouts for alder and maple.

min top dia 6" alder, 7" maple
max butt dia 30"
chip 'n' saw 5" min (absolute
pulp 3" min, must be suitable for conveyor travel


Log -- Trim -- Preference

16' -- 16'8" -- acceptable
18' -- 18'8" -- preferred
20' -- 20'8" -- preferred
22' -- n/a -- no 22' allowed
24' -- 25'0" -- least preferred
26' -- 27'0" -- acceptable
28' -- 29'0" -- preferred
30' -- 31'0" -- preferred
32' -- 33'4" -- least preferred
34' -- 35'4" -- acceptable
36' -- 37'4" -- acceptable
38' -- 39'4" -- preferred
40' -- 41'4" -- preferred
 
dooby said:
Some of the mills are geared up for the 9' stud market. The mill I currently sale to has a three inch trim per 9'. And 27'9" is their favorite length. They will take tops down to 6" and have taken down to 5.25" w/o deductions. The best saw logs go to a small Mom n Pop band mill(they pay real gooooooooda!)and the rest go to a privately owned local mill in ColumbiaFalls, Mt..
Click to expand...

PM me the mom and pop info if they pay good, unless it's super secret? I can pass it on the Ron so he could maybe sell to them as well?

I assume the other mill you're talking about it Stoltze or RBM?
 
Are there published specs for allowable sweep in a log? Is it based on the sections the longer lengths will eventually be bucked into or on the whole log?

For example our veneer logs can have maybe a half inch of sweep, while saw bolts can be up to eight inches since they are bucked in half at the mill
 
1270d said:
Are there published specs for allowable sweep in a log? Is it based on the sections the longer lengths will eventually be bucked into or on the whole log?
Click to expand...

You sort of just answered your own question. Logs are always scaled from the small end; you can make better utilization of a defective log by bucking it into shorter lengths. Longer pieces are worth more. The guy bucking makes some of these decisions, the scaler some, and the guy running the headrig makes the final call.
 
starts at the faller, if it's not layed out as gently as poss everything else is out the window. :msp_wink:
 
Another steamy day in the holler, but wouldn't trade this life for anything.
Well..... Maybe to be the sailboat Captain for Hugh Heffner :)
View attachment 305668
Oh, I took this pic for my daughter, and tossed the Stihl Forestry hat so she could see me.
 
there really is an art to bucking for grade, you east coast guy have it down to a mad science what with all the peeler logs and what not, plus hard wood generally doesn't grow real straight.

Here its watch for cat butt, big knots and too much taper, any obvious defect, other then that they all pretty much turn into grade lumber or TP...
 
For the markets I deal with on veneer we are allowed no percentage of sweep. On saw logs .....as long as they can get it on the carriage without much hassle it will go for what ever it grades out as ex: grade 1, 2 or 3 .... Most logs with a sweep will bring at least a 2. I have sold some that went for 1's ... Depends on the scale man too.
 
It was too close to tell, so I opted for more work and a safer outcome. The little alder was getting too big.

This was what I did not want to break.
View attachment 306017
So I topped it first using my "bargain" wiggly wobbledy muscle powered pole saw. I'll finish it on a day when I feel like wearing long pants. The bottom is in a blackberry vine patch. Windows are in one piece. Objective met.

View attachment 306018

I used a slopping back cut. :)
 
Last edited:
Get a power pole saw. I have murdered everything around my house...and wherever else I want to prune. I can get up 16' off the ground.
 
Finally had cause to try Cody's alternate siswheel method (the one where you slide the cut off the face rather than pulling out a wedge behind it) and found it to be easier and more effective. Turns out the question isn't so much how far can you pull it but rather how far do you need to pull it.



As you can see, I overshot by just enough to inconvenience myself.

 
Getting the power pruner in the air can be a challenge. I'm just not tough enough to saw by hand in that position.
 
slowp said:
It was too close to tell, so I opted for more work and a safer outcome. The little alder was getting too big.

This was what I did not want to break.
View attachment 306017
So I topped it first using my "bargain" wiggly wobbledy muscle powered pole saw. I'll finish it on a day when I feel like wearing long pants. The bottom is in a blackberry vine patch. Windows are in one piece. Objective met.

View attachment 306018

I used a slopping back cut. :)
Click to expand...

Strong work! I've never seen a "T" type coos bay executed with a muscle powered pole saw before:biggrin::cheers:
 

Similar threads

slowp
Excellent Description of Cable Yarding Work
Replies
1
Views
662
Breckinridge Elkins
Breckinridge Elkins
Harlen
Falling Large Trees with a Small Saw
2
Replies
20
Views
3K
Husky Man
H
Elaitch
Estimate for cost of tree removal?
2
Replies
37
Views
3K
ClimberBusinessman
C
W
Where do fallers get their experience from?
2 3
Replies
55
Views
9K
slowp
slowp
GeneralKayoss
New Miller Here
2
Replies
22
Views
1K
GeneralKayoss
GeneralKayoss

Latest posts

Back
Top