Falling wedges. What's good, what's not, and why?

[outdoorlivin247]

The reason I know is I worked in an area with a lot of big hardwoods, We had several units silver maple that were a nightmare to fall, we are talking 088 with 60" bar big

What's a silver maple?...:msp_rolleyes:

 

[056kid]

The reason I know is I worked in an area with a lot of big hardwoods, We had several units silver maple that were a nightmare to fall, we are talking 088 with 60" bar big

I didn't know there where silver maples in Oregon?

 

[HILLBILLYREDNEC]

Buy affordable Silver Maple trees at arborday.org

The trees were planted by a farmer in 1901 and the grandkids of the farmer wanted to have the area cleared for a pond:mad2:,there was 60 acres of nice trees. Kinda sad to see them old trees be cut, the trees were over 90 years old. This job was a job I will always have bitter taste in my mouth, told the stupid kids we could leave some and shape the pond to fit, nope they said fell them and burn them, I did sell the better mill grade wood to a local mill, the kids were none the wiser, they were cheap sob,s any way,the trees were the extra money they shorted the company.

 

[Gologit]

Buy affordable Silver Maple trees at arborday.org

The trees were planted by a farmer in 1901 and the grandkids of the farmer wanted to have the area cleared for a pond:mad2:,there was 60 acres of nice trees. Kinda sad to see them old trees be cut, the trees were over 90 years old. This job was a job I will always have bitter taste in my mouth, told the stupid kids we could leave some and shape the pond to fit, nope they said fell them and burn them, I did sell the better mill grade wood to a local mill, the kids were none the wiser, they were cheap sob,s any way,the trees were the extra money they shorted the company.

So you're a thief, as well as being a fraud and a liar? You are no logger, and that is a plain fact.

 

[slowp]

Back on topic, I have one of those tiny orange maybe 4 inches long wedges. I used one to open a window that was swollen shut.

Last week, I got out a suitcase to pack for my trip to the coast. I saw that wedge in it. I started carrying one with me when going to training. I figured I might need to pry something open in an emergency. So, there it is.

 

[nw axe man]

You know, we talk about axes and wedges and what works and what doesn't. One of the things that isn't talked about too much is how to hang an axe so that it maximizes your wedging abilities. It's been my experience that most people aren't too familiar with how to properly hang an axe handle. In my travels it looks as if most guys just put the head on the handle without seeing how it's hung. The driving surface of the axe needs to be parallel to the length of the handle. If it's hung too far forward or backward it will result in lots of damaged wedges as the surface of the axe won't stike the head of the wedge square. As the head of the axe is driven on the axe handle the position of the head relative to the handle can be maneuvered by rasping the axe handle so that it is sitting square on the handle. Takes a little time but results in an axe handle that you can be consistant with while wedging.

 

[paccity]

i was taught that you need to get you head square. in referance to that. your right it makes a diff.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

very limited use of felling wedges. been using an old axe head and a splitting wedge so really interested in this thread. other than the obvious - ruining a blade - is there any advantage to using the felling wedges over the axe head and splitting wedge? any advantage of double taper over single taper? what is triple taper? any major advantage of hard-head over just plastic? seems like i've seen varying thicknesses on the butt height; how thick do yall like the butt to be? thanks, jerry

 

[nw axe man]

very limited use of felling wedges. been using an old axe head and a splitting wedge so really interested in this thread. other than the obvious - ruining a blade - is there any advantage to using the felling wedges over the axe head and splitting wedge? any advantage of double taper over single taper? what is triple taper? any major advantage of hard-head over just plastic? seems like i've seen varying thicknesses on the butt height; how thick do yall like the butt to be? thanks, jerry

If you're doing any directional falling at all you need to keep at least a few wedges handy. One of the most obvious advantages of using plastic is the weight. I'm assuming that you're using a 6 lb or more splitting wedge plus the axe. The weight savings alone are worth it. Not to mention wedges are designed to be used to shock trees over. Splitting wedges and axes are not designed for this use. Not sure if you're using the axe or the splitting wedge for the wedge but either way, it just makes your job a lot harder. As far as an advantage of single taper to double taper, I prefer the single taper. It's been my experience in most softwoods that the double taper wedges don't buy you much when you have serious wedging to do. Single taper wedges used properly will lift an incredible leaner. Again, it all has to do with thinking about how you're going to have to use them and where you place them in the tree. Never heard of a triple taper. I'm not saying it doesn't exist but I've never run across one.
I've used the hard head wedges in training when those were the wedges that were brought to the session. They didn't seem to work too badly.
When talking about the butt of the wedges you're going to get different thicknesses with each length. The 12" wedges are going to be the thickest at the butt. If you have any trees with diameter at all these are going to be the wedges to use. For smaller diameter trees the shorter wedges will work. I have a few but they are not part of my system that I use. I also have a few double tapers but will only use them if I have to double up using the thinner part of the wedge for a plate. Double taper seem to be a little harder than the Stihl/Madsens single taper wedges. If used when you need to stack, the combination of the harder double taper and the bit softer Stihl/Madsens works well and see to create a friction that holds them into the cut better. You are right about the chain damage using the splitting wedge and axe. That could be brutal. I remember seeing a chain that my father had that had hit a steel falling wedge. That was when they had two steel plates that the steel wedge was driven between. It's called "How to rat crap a chain in a hurry."

 

[nw axe man]

i was taught that you need to get you head square. in referance to that. your right it makes a diff.

It's just like everything else in all occupations. The little things make all the difference in how your day goes. Just one of them going sideways can throw you off balance the rest of the day.

 

[plasticweld]

I never thought that I would be able to add to 4 pages of what kind of wedges do you use. I guess I have taken for granted what I was shown years ago and figured everybody did it the way I do
I carry three wedges on my belt in a pouch that holds my 3 pound axe with a 16 inch or so handle the other way I have done it is with a two wedge pouch and a hammer holder that goes on a belt basically cut off from the rivets and riveted back on to the two wedge pouch this is the most common unless I am in really big wood. I do like KH wedges but will use just about any type from 8 to 10 inches

What I did not see mentioned was anyone else cutting wedges out of dead hardwood as you work. I look for any dead Hornbeam or Iron wood or dead white or red oak that is good and dry and take my chainsaw and make the wedges as needed when working, I always use a combination of plastic and wood wedges because the wooden ones do not bounce out and if you are getting close with the saw it does not hurt the saw to saw into it nor destroy any thing of value. I have been in places where I had large trees and there wa lot of wedges is what I needed and I would find a dead piece of wood laying off the ground and make the wedges as needed any size that seemed to fit the need. Small wood where I knew there was a chance I would hit the wedge; large wood where I needed a combination of many wedges to get the job done. Either way I could tackle the job with carrying a minimum of tools because I could make what I needed as I went, I thought everyone did this..

As long as we are on the topic of tipping over trees the other method used is what is called a Sampson or at least this is what it was called back in Maine more than 30 years ago. What you do is take your saw and as high as you can reach notch out a spot in the tree a couple inches so the it has a squared off cut at the top. I then look for a long pole that I can make about 8 to ten feet long about 3 to 4 inches in diameter. I then look for a pole that I can cut 6 to 7 feet long and then notch the pole about a foot from the bottom to hold the long pole from slipping off of the shorter one. What I am doing is using the short pole as a lever to lift the long pole into the cut so I can tip the tree over the pole when it is about 7 feet long lets me get under it and push with my legs lifting a lot In smaller wood where a wedge does not work well this works great. If you have only one saw and have no way to cut your self out if a tree leans back on you and you can not get a wedge in then the best thing to do is make one of these first thing in the morning and the worse you will do is have to walk back and find it but it will save you time and let you get your saw out. If there is any interest I will bring my camera to the woods next time and take a couple of photos..Bob

 

[HILLBILLYREDNEC]

So you're a thief, as well as being a fraud and a liar? You are no logger, and that is a plain fact.

I am not a thief the owner the company told me what do. He was told to burn the trees, he told me to salvage the good logs to help recoup the money they failed to pay us. I take being called a liar as fighting words so let us not go down that road:mad2:

 

[056kid]

I bet he'd straighten you out like a piece of wire. . .

 

[lfnh]

Pardon the minor derail.

Expect some have seen these shoulder collars before.
Just a simple piece of backstrap, saddle stitched.
Help a little to keep the handle shoulder from getting chipped and beat up.

Another way is to use 14-18" of raw hide strap wrapped on wet and tight.
When it dries it will be harder and tougher. No pic of this as old Kodak
power supply went to lunch.

View attachment 188853

 

[indiansprings]

Great thread, lot of good info in it. Until a couple of years ago I was just using a regular ole steel splitting wedge, needless to say I used it sparingly. I've since bought several of the Stihl wedges in 8 and 12" lengths and use them often. No need to worry about chain damage, I usually drive them with a 28" handled axe.

PNWHBRN, dude, don't you ever get tired? One thread your a professional gypo faller, the next an EMT, the next a carpenter. It is obvious to anyone that has been in the woods for any length of time that you obviously don't have a clue. I can't see how you post so much with white finger, how do the guys who have been running saws 20-30 years still do it. Please stop the trolling, just resort to reading and learning.
You own pnw guys are getting on you just as hard as anyone else, how can so many be wrong?

 

[Sport Faller]

Pardon the minor derail.

Expect some have seen these shoulder collars before.
Just a simple piece of backstrap, saddle stitched.
Help a little to keep the handle shoulder from getting chipped and beat up.

Another way is to use 14-18" of raw hide strap wrapped on wet and tight.
When it dries it will be harder and tougher. No pic of this as old Kodak
power supply went to lunch.

View attachment 188853

that's pretty a fancy cat handle wrap, my axe and maul are sporting duct tape grey :msp_biggrin:

Also, has anyone used the Black Bear rifled wedges from Bailey's, looks like a neat idea for stacking

 

[nw axe man]

I never thought that I would be able to add to 4 pages of what kind of wedges do you use. I guess I have taken for granted what I was shown years ago and figured everybody did it the way I do
I carry three wedges on my belt in a pouch that holds my 3 pound axe with a 16 inch or so handle the other way I have done it is with a two wedge pouch and a hammer holder that goes on a belt basically cut off from the rivets and riveted back on to the two wedge pouch this is the most common unless I am in really big wood. I do like KH wedges but will use just about any type from 8 to 10 inches

What I did not see mentioned was anyone else cutting wedges out of dead hardwood as you work. I look for any dead Hornbeam or Iron wood or dead white or red oak that is good and dry and take my chainsaw and make the wedges as needed when working, I always use a combination of plastic and wood wedges because the wooden ones do not bounce out and if you are getting close with the saw it does not hurt the saw to saw into it nor destroy any thing of value. I have been in places where I had large trees and there wa lot of wedges is what I needed and I would find a dead piece of wood laying off the ground and make the wedges as needed any size that seemed to fit the need. Small wood where I knew there was a chance I would hit the wedge; large wood where I needed a combination of many wedges to get the job done. Either way I could tackle the job with carrying a minimum of tools because I could make what I needed as I went, I thought everyone did this..

As long as we are on the topic of tipping over trees the other method used is what is called a Sampson or at least this is what it was called back in Maine more than 30 years ago. What you do is take your saw and as high as you can reach notch out a spot in the tree a couple inches so the it has a squared off cut at the top. I then look for a long pole that I can make about 8 to ten feet long about 3 to 4 inches in diameter. I then look for a pole that I can cut 6 to 7 feet long and then notch the pole about a foot from the bottom to hold the long pole from slipping off of the shorter one. What I am doing is using the short pole as a lever to lift the long pole into the cut so I can tip the tree over the pole when it is about 7 feet long lets me get under it and push with my legs lifting a lot In smaller wood where a wedge does not work well this works great. If you have only one saw and have no way to cut your self out if a tree leans back on you and you can not get a wedge in then the best thing to do is make one of these first thing in the morning and the worse you will do is have to walk back and find it but it will save you time and let you get your saw out. If there is any interest I will bring my camera to the woods next time and take a couple of photos..Bob

Please do take some pics of this Sampson. I have a picture of it in my head but would like to see it in action.
The wooden wedges you speak of don't work too well out here. The US Forest Service used to keep them around till they finally realized that they just don't work too well out here where the trees are so tall. The ones they used just fell apart in a little bit. They did make great door stoppers, though. The plastic ones seem to hold up the best and are the most common. There's still a few guys that use the aluminum wedges but not too many. Most grind out a handle and use them for pounding a wedge or at least getting it started.

 

[nw axe man]

Pardon the minor derail.

Expect some have seen these shoulder collars before.
Just a simple piece of backstrap, saddle stitched.
Help a little to keep the handle shoulder from getting chipped and beat up.

Another way is to use 14-18" of raw hide strap wrapped on wet and tight.
When it dries it will be harder and tougher. No pic of this as old Kodak
power supply went to lunch.

View attachment 188853

Not to be pushy, Ifnh, but I'd take those edges on your axe and give them a little grind. I do like the collar, though. Seems like it would prolong the handle when the hand to head to wedge doesn't seem to match up like it sometimes does.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

...As long as we are on the topic of tipping over trees the other method used is what is called a Sampson or at least this is what it was called back in Maine more than 30 years ago. What you do is take your saw and as high as you can reach notch out a spot in the tree a couple inches so the it has a squared off cut at the top. I then look for a long pole that I can make about 8 to ten feet long about 3 to 4 inches in diameter. I then look for a pole that I can cut 6 to 7 feet long and then notch the pole about a foot from the bottom to hold the long pole from slipping off of the shorter one. What I am doing is using the short pole as a lever to lift the long pole into the cut so I can tip the tree over the pole when it is about 7 feet long lets me get under it and push with my legs lifting a lot In smaller wood where a wedge does not work well this works great. If you have only one saw and have no way to cut your self out if a tree leans back on you and you can not get a wedge in then the best thing to do is make one of these first thing in the morning and the worse you will do is have to walk back and find it but it will save you time and let you get your saw out. If there is any interest I will bring my camera to the woods next time and take a couple of photos..Bob

sounds like a human tree jack. pix would be great. video would be better.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

that's pretty a fancy cat handle wrap, my axe and maul are sporting duct tape grey :msp_biggrin:

mine too