Fiskars X27

[Hinerman]

Poop does that mean I have to plug it in to get it fixed?:msp_w00t: Well I hope this lives up to the hype I ordered one today thanks for the advice.

It was just a figure of speech. Maybe I was a little over zealous in my comparison. But the Fiskars is somewhat new, efficient, light weight, does the job it was intended to do very well (IMO), and has everybody talking----just like the M-tronic/autotune. Thank goodness we don't have to plug it in to get it fixed. I hope you enjoy the Fiskars as much as I have. To be honest, I use several splitting axes/mauls. I like them all, but if I had to pick one, it would be the Fiskars. I can't swing a Monster Maul all day, so I would have to supplement the Fiskars with a sledge and wedges.

 

[Hinerman]

Just remember, it aint a heavy maul. This is a different tool. It works by *speed* and accuracy, reading the wood well, and a good swing is different than a maul. Very much so. Not a maul, it is a splitting axe. Straight up over your head, down fast, real fast, then wrist flick at the last second if you want to. Big rounds work your way around outside to inside. Its not a brute weight splitting experience. Swing it like a maul, it wont work as well and you will be disappointed. And it will take some time to develop the new muscle memory and speed so it works better.

Have fun man!

Best post so far. Very well stated. And, I second your last sentence. The reason I want to cut wood is so I can split it. It is a great source of fun for me, more so than cutting!

 

[Hinerman]

I have read every one of the 1482 "should I get a fiskars?" threads.

Do you think I should just buy one?

Me too...I am not going to open another one or post in another one,,,,EVER!!!!:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[Lignator]

Hahahaha....another Fiskars thread.

But guess what, it deserves another thread. I too have a hydraulic splitter. For most rounds the Fiskars is the go to tool right now. Lite, efficient and quiet. I save the splitter for the big nasty pieces that might otherwise throw your shoulder out.

And yes, as the previous picture shows, they are sharp! They need to be kept sharp to work properly. I nicked myself on accident and got cut pretty good.

 

[flyboy553]

But it is so much fun giving crap to all the Fiskarites! That's my favorite pastime! If you guys were bragging your chevy's up, would give ya crap about them too! Doesn't matter to me what it is your bragging up, I will give you **** for it! That's just me!

Ted

 

[stihl023/5]

But it is so much fun giving crap to all the Fiskarites! That's my favorite pastime! If you guys were bragging your chevy's up, would give ya crap about them too! Doesn't matter to me what it is your bragging up, I will give you **** for it! That's just me!

Ted

There would be no sense in bragging up any new vehicle.

 

[artbaldoni]

Not a Fiskerite any more than I'm a Dolmarite, Stihlerite or anything else. I like to use what works. My new Dolmar works better than my old Stihl; my new X27 works better than my old Tru-Temper; my hydraulic splitter works better than my monster maul, etc...for me. Maybe not for anyone else. I must admit, I never cut myself with the Monster Maul!

 

[5speed]

Best post so far. Very well stated. And, I second your last sentence. The reason I want to cut wood is so I can split it. It is a great source of fun for me, more so than cutting!

I dont kno about the "straight over the head and swing" deal. I hold the axe to the side and swing outside to center, slide hand down to base of handle against primary hand, and splits just fine.

I can split 2 cords of good green wood loke this with my X27 and not even really get much of a workout. When i make contact the wood just explodes.

If you can read wood really good and hit slightly outaide of the center (over or under the center) I can usually get a 4-way split without much effort. I usually can do a ggod swing and the axe will imbed the tip in my block so as to hold the axe for me while I clean up the last split, or just retrieve another load of rounds to work on.

Oiling of the head isnt a must, but its the best thing you can do for yourself. This my sound odd, but i cover the head of my axe in "lard" not crisco. As I split the lard soaks into the hot steel and it gets better every outing.

Sent from my SCH-S720C using Tapatalk 2

 

[Nosmo]

Depends On What You Got It For

Just wanted to say mine works just fine for what I got it for. What did I get it for ?

Just to split a few pieces when I don't want to get the splitter out of the back end of my shop.

Nosmo

 

[Herd8497]

I dont kno about the "straight over the head and swing" deal. I hold the axe to the side and swing outside to center, slide hand down to base of handle against primary hand, and splits just fine.

I can split 2 cords of good green wood loke this with my X27 and not even really get much of a workout. When i make contact the wood just explodes.

If you can read wood really good and hit slightly outaide of the center (over or under the center) I can usually get a 4-way split without much effort. I usually can do a ggod swing and the axe will imbed the tip in my block so as to hold the axe for me while I clean up the last split, or just retrieve another load of rounds to work on.

Oiling of the head isnt a must, but its the best thing you can do for yourself. This my sound odd, but i cover the head of my axe in "lard" not crisco. As I split the lard soaks into the hot steel and it gets better every outing.

Sent from my SCH-S720C using Tapatalk 2

I agree that the green wood is easier. It has made splitting by hand much easier for me. I began to tackle what I would believe is nearly 2 cords of white ash this afternoon. I cut it in October. It was a b*tch. The green stuff split much easier in the fall. It was still great to swing at it, it just means I have more to work on tomorrow.

Jay

 

[Whitespider]

...swing is different than a maul. Very much so. Not a maul, it is a splitting axe. Straight up over your head, down fast, real fast, then wrist flick at the last second if you want to.

Hmmmmm...... that's interesting... because that's how I "strike" with a maul... both feet squared off and pointing to the target, slide the leading hand down the handle as I bring it straight up over my head, then "strike" down fast and hard.
I "swing" the Fiskars like any other axe... off foot slightly forward, and a full "swing" from above/behind the leading hand's shoulder.
I "snap" my wrists using either tool... more to minimize shock to the hands and arms then for splitting efficiency.

Seems to me that you're giving up a lot of potential head speed by "striking" with the Fiskars rather than "swinging" it... but, whatever works, is what works.

Don't tell me you "swing" a maul?? 'Cause, man... that will flat wear you out!

 

[Whiskey_Bravo]

I bought an X27 last week. I ordered it online from the big orange box store when I placed an order for some other miscellaneous items. Last night was the first time giving it a good and proper work out.

I took the X27 out in the yard with my old True Temper splitting maul and went to work on a big pile of green rounds. The pile was mostly maple with some oak mixed in it as well. Let me tell you right now....it does not work like a regular maul. Just as Zogger said earlier, it truly is a splitting axe and I still have not figured out how to use it properly. The light weight and sharp blade make it a dream to use on smaller and dryer pieces, but it and my regular old maul would get buried in the larger pieces that were very stringy or would just bounce off them. I am going to try a larger base block next time, since mine is starting to rot, and also spraying it down with WD40 every so often. Since all of my wood is green and I do not have a mechanical splitter, I am considering ordering a mega maul from Bailey's...since the solution to all life's problems is a bigger hammer. Plus I am still young and strong, so i figure if I can physically handle swinging a mega maul all day then why not?

 

[Whitespider]

I don't use the Fiskars Axe to bust larger rounds, I don't see that as an efficient use of the tool, or my time and energy.
The maul does the halving (and quartering, depending) in less time, with fewer "strikes" and less overall energy used... the finish-up work goes to the axe where brute power isn't needed (or necessarily desired).

(Of course, this all assumes I haven't rolled the hydraulic splitter, powered by an internal combustion engine, out of the shop.)

 

[5speed]

Your larger rounds wont be an issue at all guys. Work your way around the outside busting good sizeable pices off until you have a fairly decent center left. At this poont solit the center piece as you would a normal size round and your done. This is a tool and you have to find the best way to utilize it and the time and energy spent using it to it fullest potential.

I have split green rounds up to 4' in diameter uaing this method and not much real.work is needed. Never have used a log splitter. Never needed one.

Sent from my SCH-S720C using Tapatalk 2

 

[JakeG]

I rarely split green wood mainly because I only take down dead or dying trees (10-24" dbh) and let the logs sit until ready to split. For me, logs ready to split when I see multiple rings and cracks on the ends. At this point, they are no match for the X27 and it's just plain fun. The 20"+ logs take longer to dry out. With these, I'll partially split them working around the outside and leave the center 8-10" for another day.

Today will be the first time I've attempted splitting fresh (1 & 3 day old) oak, I'll post back with my findings. Traditionally like splitting green wood with the x27. I haven't had ANY LUCK... AT ALL. But I can let it sit as I don't really need it.

 

[zogger]

I rarely split green wood mainly because I only take down dead or dying trees (10-24" dbh) and let the logs sit until ready to split. For me, logs ready to split when I see multiple rings and cracks on the ends. At this point, they are no match for the X27 and it's just plain fun. The 20"+ logs take longer to dry out. With these, I'll partially split them working around the outside and leave the center 8-10" for another day.

Today will be the first time I've attempted splitting fresh (1 & 3 day old) oak, I'll post back with my findings. Traditionally like splitting green wood with the x27. I haven't had ANY LUCK... AT ALL. But I can let it sit as I don't really need it.

I let rounds sit until they check as well, seems to work better, plus, sometimes the bark comes of easy then. I have done some nice red oak green before, it usually works well to split like that, but again, I am always far ahead on cut versus split I can afford to let them sit awhile. Heck, I have some random species assorted rounds way over a year sitting right now. Just ran out of space in that area to stack splits, had to wait until I used up this past winters wood first.

Hickory though, I want that split ASAP after cutting.

 

[turnkey4099]

I rarely split green wood mainly because I only take down dead or dying trees (10-24" dbh) and let the logs sit until ready to split. For me, logs ready to split when I see multiple rings and cracks on the ends. At this point, they are no match for the X27 and it's just plain fun. The 20"+ logs take longer to dry out. With these, I'll partially split them working around the outside and leave the center 8-10" for another day.

Today will be the first time I've attempted splitting fresh (1 & 3 day old) oak, I'll post back with my findings. Traditionally like splitting green wood with the x27. I haven't had ANY LUCK... AT ALL. But I can let it sit as I don't really need it.

I split green Willow and green or dry Black Locust. Works well in both but then green willow almost falls apart on its own unless it has a knot.

Harry K

 

[Whitespider]

...larger rounds wont be an issue... Work your way around the outside...

That technique has been mentioned before... many times.
But seriously, why would I do that if I could just pop it in half with one good thump from the maul ??
It's a matter of using the right (or best) tool for the job at hand. After all, I wouldn't drive 20p, ring-shank, pole barn nails with a 6-once tack hammer. Yeah, it can be done... but why, when a 20-once framing is the better tool for the job ??
The Fiskars Splitting Axe is not designed, or intended to replace the maul... splitting big rounds with an axe makes no more sense then driving those 20p nails with a tack hammer.

 

[5speed]

I find any way i can to stay outdoors. This is a great excuse, and unless I am doing a job for.someone or hurrying to sell, this just keeps me fit of body and mind.

If ive had a really bad day and my temper happens to flare, the extra work is really appreciated.

I do agree, splitting with a maul when practical is smarter, but unless its needed I just wanna work. Its an ethical thing for me to always keep moving.

Sent from my SCH-S720C using Tapatalk 2

 

[hatchet13]

It works

Bought one at the beiginnin of fall split every peice of 13cord no problems .me and one of my buddy's startd on the pile on Saturday morn and were done 2cases n 3 packs of Marbs later b4 Sunday arrived