Frickin 192T!!!!!!!!!!

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Had some time to finally play with it today.
Red loctite on the shaft, lined up the keyway and tapped it on with a socket. I tightened everything down and reassembled.
No love. Good spark, the plug is wet but it won't even pop. Even after tapping the flywheel it would still try to move on the shaft, so I am certain it's out of time.
$100 for a new flywheel, $500ish for a 200t, I see a 200t in my furture!
 
Had some time to finally play with it today.
Red loctite on the shaft, lined up the keyway and tapped it on with a socket. I tightened everything down and reassembled.
No love. Good spark, the plug is wet but it won't even pop. Even after tapping the flywheel it would still try to move on the shaft, so I am certain it's out of time.
$100 for a new flywheel, $500ish for a 200t, I see a 200t in my furture!



Send it..........
 
Send it..........

Hang on a bit, let me see what chains I am going to need, you want the 14" bar with it? I still have two new in the package chains, and I am going to get a 16" on the 200.:cheers:
(can you tell I had you in mind to start with?)
 
sigh.... lap it on... no loctite...


I'll give you $25 for it.... after all, a FW is $100 (or so you say..).. and then there's my labor...
 
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If it's still moving after you tightened it,try a washer under the nut.Drawn down tight that flywheel should'nt budge.
 
sigh.... lap it on... no loctite...


I'll give you $25 for it.... after all, a FW is $100 (or so you say..).. and then there's my labor...

My cost from dealer is $89.95 + tax.

Lap it on? I don't underdtand that one. sorry.
I cleaned up the key with a file as best I could, but I am afraid even if I do get it lined up again the taper may not be enough to hold it in place.
The nut tightens down plentny a washer might keep it from spinning when I tighten it down but I am not sure there are enough threads to do it properly.
 
My cost from dealer is $89.95 + tax.

Lap it on? I don't underdtand that one. sorry.
I cleaned up the key with a file as best I could, but I am afraid even if I do get it lined up again the taper may not be enough to hold it in place.
The nut tightens down plentny a washer might keep it from spinning when I tighten it down but I am not sure there are enough threads to do it properly.

Ship it.....:cheers: :cheers:
 
Ultra says I'm not supposed to tell you how to lap...


and.. the taper is ALL that holds the FW on.. never the key... if it's slipping it will shear off that cast key in the blink of an eye...

O.k., make sure Ultra isn't watching this thread..

Lapping. Remove the old key fragment. Get the friggin' loctite off the shaft and FW. Take some valve grinding/lapping paste... put on the shaft/fw rotate by hand (with a small pressure on the FW axially to the crank) until you see very good witness marks on 80% plus of both surfaces.. degrease.. tap on, torque down... protect the seal while you do the lapping..



Any chance you've cracked the old FW?
 
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I won't tell.


I don't think it's cracked, unless it's a hairline, but I looked it over.
I understand the taper is what locks it, but the key aligns it, and somehow it moved the first time with the taper.
I may give the lapping a try, when I have time (yeah, right like thats going to happen right now!) But after running a 200t I am kind of itching for one anyways:)
 

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