Frustrated: Stihl ms290 dies after heating up

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If it just dies when it warms up, I bet on the spark plug.

That is what it does. I got a new plug yesterday.

Im curious. Ive never seen a screen with glue stuck in it like that. I would totally disassemble the engine and check and rebuild properly.

Uh-oh, lol. I hate to hear that! Anyone else have an opinion on that... how it got there without being evidence of something seriously wrong?
 
Im curious. Ive never seen a screen with glue stuck in it like that. I would totally disassemble the engine and check and rebuild properly.
Have you ever used Dirko? If you have you'll know that it really is messy and gets on everything you touch. When I use it I find it on everything, even stuff I didn't think I was around. It doesn't surprise me at all that it was on that screen if the saw was apart but it should be removed from that screen. I guess it's possible it could have come through the engine and out the exhaust but it probably wouldn't do any damage other than maybe stopping up an oil passage but maybe not. That could only happen if someone used an excessive amount of it during assembly and some of it came loose..
 
Have you ever used Dirko? If you have you'll know that it really is messy and gets on everything you touch. When I use it I find it on everything, even stuff I didn't think I was around. It doesn't surprise me at all that it was on that screen if the saw was apart but it should be removed from that screen. I guess it's possible it could have come through the engine and out the exhaust but it probably wouldn't do any damage other than maybe stopping up an oil passage but maybe not. That could only happen if someone used an excessive amount of it during assembly and some of it came loose..

A previous poster mentioned a wire brush; I used that and got it all out. But I don't think it was much; I'd say it was over 90% open but now it's 100% open.
 
A previous poster mentioned a wire brush; I used that and got it all out. But I don't think it was much; I'd say it was over 90% open but now it's 100% open.
It would be nice to know if someone put that on the screen or if it came from the engine. If any more gets on the screen it might mean it came from the engine which means it's coming off from around the joint at the crankcase/cylinder I guess. I've had trouble figuring how much Dirko to use, you don't want to much or too little.
 
At the end of the tank vent there is a flat head screw turned in the end of the pipe, take the screw out and try the saw
 
At the end of the tank vent there is a flat head screw turned in the end of the pipe, take the screw out and try the saw
Blow air through the pipe first to make sure it's not blocked, open the gas cap first tho cause if you don't you will remember this day for a long time loll
 
What does the screw do? Is it not blocking the tube or is it partly blocking it or what? If I were to do this and it ran and did not quit, what's the diagnosis?

I bought a new tank vent (the tube with the screw in the end), too, cost $5.
 
What does the screw do? Is it not blocking the tube or is it partly blocking it or what? If I were to do this and it ran and did not quit, what's the diagnosis?

I bought a new tank vent (the tube with the screw in the end), too, cost $5.
Have you put it on yet
 
That type of vent is rarely an issue. The red on the exhaust screen is Dirko that blew out of the crank case when the engine rebuilder used too much of it. Usually it's a non-issue.
 
As for the dirks in the screen. I'm saying whoever worked on that saw may not be the best mechanic and messed something else up putting the engine together. I've used it and silicone and other sticky stuff to put things together and keep it clean and off of other parts.
Now for something completely different. Put an inline spark tester on spark plug and go cut til it stalls. See if it has spark or not.
 
UPDATE: I am sure some will be surprised. I put the new spark plug in (and that's all I did during this test round) and went to cut some wood and it did fine, not dying until it ran out of gas. I had put in maybe half a tank. I put some more gas in it and made a couple more cuts. It needs a carb adjustment, but it appears to me that the problem was solved with a new spark plug. Kinda makes me mad I didn't install a new one in the first place. Would have saved me $80 plus time and anguish. At least I have a new air filter and carb. Thanks for replies.
 
Do yourself a favor and remove the tank vent then try.. Your air filter was wet with fuel meaning tank pressure is overcoming the needle and seat allowing the carb to flow fuel all the time irregardless of the intake opening. It's impossible to restart because it's flooded and runs great for five minutes til it literally starts choking itself on fuel. Best part is that vent is only a dollar or two

A Very Logical and analytical explanation Until I read this I was agreeing with most everything said but I myself had oversighted what you yourself said at the start of this post... WET air filter. Very GOOD POINT>
 
Yep, I had an 036 do the exact same thing and I tried a carb kit, swapping coils, etc, etc. Finally, spun a new plug in it and all was well. But man was I mad at myself for not swapping plugs right off.
 
At the end of the tank vent there is a flat head screw turned in the end of the pipe, take the screw out and try the saw
Not necessary to take the screw out, just move it to a different place in the tube. After a while the threads dig into the tube and cut the passage off, moving the screw starts the process all over..
 
UPDATE: I am sure some will be surprised. I put the new spark plug in (and that's all I did during this test round) and went to cut some wood and it did fine, not dying until it ran out of gas. I had put in maybe half a tank. I put some more gas in it and made a couple more cuts. It needs a carb adjustment, but it appears to me that the problem was solved with a new spark plug. Kinda makes me mad I didn't install a new one in the first place. Would have saved me $80 plus time and anguish. At least I have a new air filter and carb. Thanks for replies.
Why do you say it needs a carb adjustment?
 
Why do you say it needs a carb adjustment?

Bear in mind that, as I said in a post on here, "I know enough to be dangerous." But as I cut, it kinda bogged down and it's a fairly new chain and I thought it should not be doing that. It ended up getting stronger and I made the cuts. But somewhere in there, I didn't like the sound the saw was making. I don't know enough about chainsaws to know but I heard a sound that sounded too metallic, too much of a clattering sound when it idled down to low speed. It may be normal but it made me nervous and I quit cutting. It might be a normal sound that a two-stroke makes but I have never been around small two-strokes, only a 125cc two-stroke Yamaha motorcycle from 40 yrs ago!

Assuming the saw is ok, I just don't think it is adjusted ideally to cut. But then again, I don't know how long a chain should last either. I know the chips should not be sawdust and it was making good size chips but also there was some finer dust... but I don't know if that was due to some other factor, such as me not going through the cut at the ideal speed or what.

Also, as I said in an earlier post, I don't recall the dealer mechanic adjusting this saw for the four-stroking sound after he put the new carb in. He kinda acted like it should be good to go with factory specs, and that bugs me now that the said that. I know he knows what four-stroking adjustment is because he actually did that early on in this repair story when I had the previous carb on it.

I appreciated everyone's advice, including yours!
 
Sorry, I just don't think the new plug cured your problem. However, keeping running it chasing all of the other gremlins
suggested hasn't done your saw any favors either.
I know the gang here will be screaming at me, but they usually do anyway.
I just hate to see anyone doing damage to their saw.
Have you inspected your fuel line yet? Can you take a close pic of it?
 
A Very Logical and analytical explanation Until I read this I was agreeing with most everything said but I myself had oversighted what you yourself said at the start of this post... WET air filter. Very GOOD POINT>

Strange How things work out. Yesterday I was cutting some Fwood and my saw was running great then started acting up, boggish then die, hard restarting.
I didn't think the air filter could be the problem in only 5 minutes of cutting.
I cracked the gas Cap a turn then put it back on.
Worked great the rest of the Fwood cutting session. I usually keep them on the heated back Porch ( the saws I use the most)
Makes me ponder warm saw hitting cold air and so on...
My saw is a 056 Magnum II And I believe it is the Original gas cap . SO MANY YEARS.
I am going to keep my mind on it and maybe it is the temp change.
But maybe it is telling me it is to cold to cut Fwood ..
Never Heard that one before.
Has anyone heard that one before?
 

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