Hand filing chain

[p61 western]

Perhaps some better pics are in order I will mess with the camera,and use some of the tips to get better pics of the chain.As always thank you for all the tips and help.

 

[Boomer 87]

Maybe not real safe but when I get done with a chain filed or ground I GENTLY drag my thumb print across the tops. If it slides over its not sharp enough if it tries to "dig in" so to speak then it's good to go. Not that I'm recommending you do that but I do it.

 

[old guy]

It looks to me like you do not have a 30 degree angle on the top plate, there should be an engraved line on top of the tooth towards the back end, this is the angle you should copy. Also go a little bit deeper down with the file to put a little bit more hook on the corner. A picture straight down from the top would give us additional info.

 

[Philbert]

Philbert this is the chain I was asking about that had the c2 on the drivers and s on the depth gauges.It came with a bar I got at custom chainsaw parts.It was pretty ruff brand new,inconsistent top plate angles and what not.

I looked on his eBay site. It shows a number of chains which appear to be copies or clones of Oregon and STIHL chains, probably made in the land of the Panda (?) They are listed as 'unknown' brand and 'unknown' country of origin. It may cut OK for you. If not, you will get a lot of practice sharpening!

I won't comment on the depth gauges, as I can't tell if the tooth has .025" clearance from a picture.[emoji6]

Eyes getting bad?

Philbert

 

[p61 western]

It looks to me like you do not have a 30 degree angle on the top plate, there should be an engraved line on top of the tooth towards the back end, this is the angle you should copy. Also go a little bit deeper down with the file to put a little bit more hook on the corner. A picture straight down from the top would give us additional info.

Good eye they are at a 25 degree angle it works good for my cutting.There are no witness lines on this chain.Thanks for the tips.

 

[p61 western]

I looked on his eBay site. It shows a number of chains which appear to be copies or clones of Oregon and STIHL chains, probably made in the land of the Panda (?) They are listed as 'unknown' brand and 'unknown' country of origin. It may cut OK for you. If not, you will get a lot of practice sharpening!


Eyes getting bad?

Philbert

Lol well I could use the practice sharpening.

 

[Boomer 87]

There's nothing wrong with 25° I grind a bunch of mine that way. I always was told 25° on chisel 30° on chipper and small limbing saws. I can't prove it tho

 

[DSW]

Here are some more pics.View attachment 530108 View attachment 530109 View attachment 530110 View attachment 530111

The rakers are way too high. Knock those down at least a bit and a bit more if the saw will pull it. The tooth doesn't look to have a thirty degree angle on it. Now that it's off it might be harder to correct if you're not sure what you're going for, because you're going to have to reshape it.

 

[p61 western]

The rakers are way too high. Knock those down at least a bit and a bit more if the saw will pull it. The tooth doesn't look to have a thirty degree angle on it. Now that it's off it might be harder to correct if you're not sure what you're going for, because you're going to have to reshape it.

It's at 25 on purpose for the hardwood I cut, and holds a edge a little longer. As for the depth gauges there set at .025.The pics are pretty poor, I'll try to get better pics in the am.

 

[Andyshine77]

There's nothing wrong with 25° I grind a bunch of mine that way. I always was told 25° on chisel 30° on chipper and small limbing saws. I can't prove it tho

Both will work you just have to find what works in the type of wood you cut, I prefer 30° most of the time on Stihl RS chain, Oregon normally 25° as it doesn't hold an edge as well as Stihl chain.

 

[Philbert]

. . . the depth gauges there set at .025.

Not to complicate things . . . , but some people believe that the depth gauge offset should be relative to the the cutter, as opposed to absolute (e.g. always 0.025"). The term progressive depth gauge offset does not refer to a political philosophy, but the idea that the offset should increase as the cutter gets filed back. Some people will express this as an angular relationship, such as 6°.

This is best explored and described in this classic thread:
http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...ly-progressive-depth-raker-generators.114624/

This requires use of a File-O-Plate (FOP - no longer made), or the depth gauge tool on the Husqvara roller guides, or a digital angle finder (DAF), or just taking a bit more off as the cutter gets worn/filed/ground back, especially if it does not seem to be cutting aggressively enough.

Philbert

 

[Andyshine77]

Not to complicate things . . . , but some people believe that the depth gauge offset should be relative to the the cutter, as opposed to absolute (e.g. always 0.025"). The term progressive depth gauge offset does not refer to a political philosophy, but the idea that the offset should increase as the cutter gets filed back. Some people will express this as an angular relationship, such as 6°.

This is best explored and described in this classic thread:
http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...ly-progressive-depth-raker-generators.114624/

This requires use of a File-O-Plate (FOP - no longer made), or the depth gauge tool on the Husqvara roller guides, or a digital angle finder (DAF), or just taking a bit more off as the cutter gets worn/filed/ground back, especially if it does not seem to be cutting aggressively enough.

Philbert

Thanks for posting that link! I was having trouble finding it.

 

[DSW]

It's at 25 on purpose for the hardwood I cut, and holds a edge a little longer. As for the depth gauges there set at .025.The pics are pretty poor, I'll try to get better pics in the am.

It must be the picture then, I wasn't even getting picky on whether it's 25 or 30, from my perspective it doesn't look that close to either.

I may get a lot of people who disagree with this, but .025 doesn't mean a lot to me, if I can't eyeball it and safely say the raker is under the tooth, I knock it down. I cut almost exclusively hardwood. I like a saw that feeds and I run saws that are usually well sized for the wood so it's not an issue.

I don't want this post to sound negative, I 100% support people learning to hand file their own chains. It's very rewarding.

 

[p61 western]

Well made some cuts today, and all in all not to bad. I need a new depth gauge tool though, checked them with feeler gauge and they are pretty high. So I will knock them down and do more test cuts. Any recommendations on good depth gauge tools.,seem's that my Oregon tool is way off.

 

[p61 western]

Anybody have a fop you don't want or have a use for? pm me if you do please.

 

[Andyshine77]

Anybody have a fop you don't want or have a use for? pm me if you do please.

Doubt anyone will part with a fop. The husky roller guides work well, and for most part the simple Oregon and Stihl guides that sit on top of the teeth works well enough for most.

 

[p61 western]

Doubt anyone will part with a fop. The husky roller guides work well, and for most the simple Oregon and Stihl guides that sit on top of the teeth works well enough for most.

I was using a Oregon guide that sits on top with those result's. Maybe I got one that was no good, or I'm doing something wrong. I'm working with the Oregon 20 dollar file kit,prolly time to get some better stuff.

 

[Andyshine77]

That guide will work just fine until the tooth is about half gone.

Sent from my KFSOWI using Tapatalk

 

[Philbert]

Anybody have a fop you don't want or have a use for?

The File-O-Plates are chain specific many different models.

Philbert

 

[super3]

Anybody have a fop you don't want or have a use for? pm me if you do please.

You can get the husky guides for about $4 ea.

505 69 8100 .325
8101 .375
8102 .404
8103 .375 lo pro