p61 western
ArboristSite Guru
After the chain is half gone what method do you use?That guide will work just fine until the tooth is about half gone.
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After the chain is half gone what method do you use?That guide will work just fine until the tooth is about half gone.
Sent from my KFSOWI using Tapatalk
I am using a straight edge from tooth to tooth, then checking with feeler gauge. It could use more bite when cutting. It is a off brand chain that is fighting me.My Oregon chains are better to work with.How are you using /measuring with the feeler gauge? How does it cut?
After the chain is half gone what method do you use?
Can't accurately gauge it off of the final cutter height if you take off much off. Might be OK if you are only going to take one or two file passes.Without reading through all these posts I'll say that filing the rakers first, then filing the cutters prevents taking the edge off the cutters, particularly on chisel and semi chisel.
Your doing it right ! The file might be just a little high . Wish I could show on the picture ? Try to do it with words .Look on the outside profile there are three horizontal lines top middle bottom . Notice there's a small angle . No matter what it gets sharpen with , it needs to get to the bottom of the horizontal line . What I notice with this sharpening is just starting to get high and that's normal with hand filling . What going to happen at this rate about half way through the chains life is a condition called to much slop . A lot people blame the rakers an get a new chain . When to much slop happens you can file the rakers off an not much is going happen .Here are some more pics.View attachment 530108 View attachment 530109 View attachment 530110 View attachment 530111
Try a few and see what you like.What would be a better file than the Oregon files?
Thank you Philbert that is exactly what I was looking for. Good heads up on the Pherd standard and smooth.Try a few and see what you like.
A lot of people have brand preferences; I am usually happy with most name brand files. I just bought some STIHL files at a farm store for less than the Oregon files at the same store. Some guys were really excited about Save Edge files a while back:
http://www.baileysonline.com/Chains...s/Round-Chainsaw-Files/Save-Edge-Round-Files/
Pferd files are available in both a 'Standard' (coarser) and 'Smooth' (finer) cut, for rough shaping and final finishing or light touch ups.
https://www.pferdusa.com/info/PDF/CSF.PDF
Philbert
I use my old fop. As Super Mike mentioned the Husky gauges are still available as well.After the chain is half gone what method do you use?
I wish could show on the picture to. Do you have a link to a video? Can you explain more about the slop, what it is and how to avoid it.Thanks in advance.No matter how it gets sharpen, getting the right depth is what you need to look for . Going to run dremals as long as there electricity to run them .
Your doing it right ! The file might be just a little high . Wish I could show on the picture ? Try to do it with words .Look on the outside profile there are three horizontal lines top middle bottom . Notice there's a small angle . No matter what it gets sharpen with , it needs to get to the bottom of the horizontal line . What I notice with this sharpening is just starting to get high and that's normal with hand filling . What going to happen at this rate about half way through the chains life is a condition called to much slop . A lot people blame the rakers an get a new chain . When to much slop happens you can file the rakers off an not much is going happen .
You can get the husky guides for about $4 ea.
505 69 8100 .325
8101 .375
8102 .404
8103 .375 lo pro
Thanks for the info I will order a couple of those and try them out.The one I got for 3/8" LoPro in the guide kit wasn't... however the 3/8" was a FOP. I'd double check.
You can get the husky guides for about $4 ea.
505 69 8100 .325
8101 .375
8102 .404
8103 .375 lo pro
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