Hard to cold start Stihl 026, arrrgh

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OcFerris

ArboristSite Lurker
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First, I'm sure this question has been asked and answered 10 times before but I've read and read and can't find an answer.

I'm a weekend wood warrior 2-3 months a year and I have an older Stihl 026 (not pro) that's been giving me trouble starting when cold. I can't tell you what year the saw is but I bought it used 7 or 8 years ago. It stared fine, hot or cold, until last year. It always starts first pull when warm but as it cools off it gets harder to start. Leave the saw sit overnight and we're talking 40-50 pulls to get it going again. Once it starts and warms up for 20-30 seconds it runs great, lots of power, responsive throttle, etc.. It doesn't seen to matter what the air temp is or whether the saw has been sitting for 2 days or 2 months, it starts about the same.

First thing I did was take it to the local Stihl dealer who replaced the plug and air filter, adjusted the carb then basically told me I didn't know how to start my saw. "You have to pull it 3 times with the choke on, turn off the choke and it will start every time" he says. He's right, if you let the saw sit for 3-4 hours between starts that will work. Let the saw sit overnight and no go. I explained that I've tried every combination of choke/no-choke methods of starting I can think of and his recommendation wouldn't work. Told me to "bring it back if you have trouble getting it started and maybe it's just too old to fix" so I paid my bill and left.

Next day comes and the saw doesn't start (no surprise) but at $80/hour for shop time I decided I can fix this thing myself. I mean jeez, spark + gas + air in the right combination and this thing has to run. One of the suggestions I came across here was to try choking it with my thumb over the carb. That worked. Darn saw burped on the second pull so I removed my thumb and turned off the choke and the saw started on the third pull. Well that was easy! From what I read I figured I had an air leak so in addition to the new plug and filter, I ended up replacing the fuel line and filter and rebuilding the carb. I didn't adjust anything inside the carb, just replaced all the parts with what was in the kit. Then I generally cleaned everything well, confirmed the butterfly was closing as far as possible and made sure the control lever was closing the valve on the new air filter properly. Everything looks right but it's no easier to start than it was before I got into it. (though I have to admit it does run better)

I did not replace the impulse line as the dealer didn't have it in stock (7-10 days!). I cleaned the old one and inspected it for cracks or holes, loss of flexibility etc. and I believe it to be good. When my dealer gets the part I will replace it but I have my doubts (based on zero experience whatsoever) as to how much improvement it will make. Also, the saw seems to have adequate compression. I don't know how much but it doesn't pull "easy" or drop to the floor if I hang it by the pull start handle. :)

This is getting personal and I don't want to give up on this saw but I'm starting to ask myself if I should have just replaced it with a good used one. I suppose I could incorporate the thumb choke start method and be done with it but that's not how I like to do things and it would just peeve me every time I did it.

Any suggestions as to what I should do next would be appreciated!
 
i have an 026 that i was given with a cracked piston, once i replaced the p&c replaced it runs great but has alway been a bear to start, the previous owner said it alway swas hard to start for him also. to save me from pulling for an hr to get it started i take the back cover off and pour a tiny bit of gas/oil on the air filter, 2-3 pulls later it is running fine. not a great method but it works and besides it is my backup saw. good luck.
 
Ethanol is a beotch! Try a carb kit - something your dealer didnt feel like doing. Much easier and faster for him to put a plug and filter on it and give it back. He WANTS you to bring your 026 back so he can offer you $20 for it towards a new one. He'll take the saw home, put a carb kit in it and either add it to his collection or turn around and sell it for $150 to the next guy!!

My $0.02

Oh yeah....carb kits are only like $10.
Much cheaper than that plug and filter you didnt need!
 
Since it will start easier when using your thumb over the carb inlet as a choke I would first concentrate your attention in that area. Check to see the flap in the filter ia actually closing tightly, actually check to see that the mastercontrol switch is moving the tang protruding from the filter as far as it can go to make the flap inside the filter close completely. To make a engine start easier you can adjust the L a tad richer, maybe start with an 1/8 turn counterclockwise and turn the idle screw in a tad to keep the engine idling happily. If neither of these things workout then it would be time for a VAC and pressure check.
 
You said you put your thumb on the carb and choked it and it started this prob means that the choke is not shutting all the way.a bad impulse line would make it not want to run at any time not just start up.If you cant straighten out the problem by looking at the choke i would pres/vac test it next.
 
The tank housing where the all inclusive choke/on/off hi idle shaft sits is warn out and when you choke it, it isnt choking all the way.

I have an 026 in the shop right now that the customer can not ever start, he brings it in and I manually hold the switch down forcibly and it starts 2-3 pulls every time. He has 4 026/260's, this is the only one that gives him trouble. Its the oldest in his fleet and the shaft has a ton of play in it.

The play is enough that the tiny little spring in the air filter is enough to pull the choke off just enough to give him trouble.

And you said you got a new air filter, so now you have a fresh even stronger spring.

1 more thing, he is wrong to state that its 3 pulls with choke on turn off and it will start.

You either need to hear a pop-flutter-die or have that instance where the starter cord tugs back just a little.

I also have an 038 in the shop that has this same issue. the slot that the shaft sits in is so worn that the only fix is a new tank. Customer doesnt want to spend the money on it.
If it wasnt a 038 I might consider fixing it up and using it.
 
The tank housing where the all inclusive choke/on/off hi idle shaft sits is warn out and when you choke it, it isnt choking all the way.

I have an 026 in the shop right now that the customer can not ever start, he brings it in and I manually hold the switch down forcibly and it starts 2-3 pulls every time. He has 4 026/260's, this is the only one that gives him trouble. Its the oldest in his fleet and the shaft has a ton of play in it.

The play is enough that the tiny little spring in the air filter is enough to pull the choke off just enough to give him trouble.

And you said you got a new air filter, so now you have a fresh even stronger spring.

1 more thing, he is wrong to state that its 3 pulls with choke on turn off and it will start.

You either need to hear a pop-flutter-die or have that instance where the starter cord tugs back just a little.

I also have an 038 in the shop that has this same issue. the slot that the shaft sits in is so worn that the only fix is a new tank. Customer doesnt want to spend the money on it.
If it wasnt a 038 I might consider fixing it up and using it.
That stuff will make you nuts.Do you know if the new 261 uses that same style linkage or are they good to go now?
 
That stuff will make you nuts.Do you know if the new 261 uses that same style linkage or are they good to go now?

Good question. I havent had any tear downs on them yet. I will check mine later today.
 
It runs!

Ya know, when I posted this originally I couldn't find the post to find any replies. I obviously must have been doing something wrong! Sorry for not responding before now.

Anyway, it's running! My dealer did get the impulse line in stock so for the $3 I went ahead and replaced it. Still didn't start so I went back over the carb rebuild. It seems that I didn't set the metering lever arm properly. Stumbled across that little info gem in one of these threads. Anyway I adjusted it, put the saw back together and it started on the 4th pull. Surprised the crap out of me! I was still skeptical so I let the saw sit on the bench for 6 days. Do you know how hard it was to let it sit there, just knowing it might actually start? I couldn't stand it any longer and tried it again yesterday. Yep, started on the 4th pull again. Perfect! Or perfect enough! It runs great. I'm sure all the other "repairs" helped too.

It was my first chainsaw repair and first carb rebuild and I learned it all here at AS. Thanks for all the replies!
 
metering lever arm?

Ya know, when I posted this originally I couldn't find the post to find any replies. I obviously must have been doing something wrong! Sorry for not responding before now.

Anyway, it's running! My dealer did get the impulse line in stock so for the $3 I went ahead and replaced it. Still didn't start so I went back over the carb rebuild. It seems that I didn't set the metering lever arm properly. Stumbled across that little info gem in one of these threads. Anyway I adjusted it, put the saw back together and it started on the 4th pull. Surprised the crap out of me! I was still skeptical so I let the saw sit on the bench for 6 days. Do you know how hard it was to let it sit there, just knowing it might actually start? I couldn't stand it any longer and tried it again yesterday. Yep, started on the 4th pull again. Perfect! Or perfect enough! It runs great. I'm sure all the other "repairs" helped too.

It was my first chainsaw repair and first carb rebuild and I learned it all here at AS. Thanks for all the replies!

What do mean by adjusting the metering lever arm? I have exactly the same problem with my 026, and have replaced the carb, air filter and plug - all with no help. I have to use ether for a cold start and then it is fine all day.
 
Here's a link to Walbro's service manual for the WT series of carbs.

www.walbro.com/media/21907/WTseries.pdf

The metering lever is #59 and sits under the diaphram. The diaphram pushes one end of the lever and the other end lifts the needle. If the needle doesn't open the correct amount either too much or too little gas will be supplied to the engine. The last page describes how to adjust the lever. This is the basic principle and you may need a different document based on make and series of carb on your 026.

I would assume a new carb would be properly adjusted from the factory, assuming it was a new carb.

Good luck!
 
Sure is a mickey mouse choke with those in the air filter, I have a 038 here that take at least 15 pulls using the choke. With my thumb over the carb 1 pull. I did adjust the low a little richer to make it start easyier. Steve
 
Ya know, when I posted this originally I couldn't find the post to find any replies. I obviously must have been doing something wrong! Sorry for not responding before now.

Anyway, it's running! My dealer did get the impulse line in stock so for the $3 I went ahead and replaced it. Still didn't start so I went back over the carb rebuild. It seems that I didn't set the metering lever arm properly. Stumbled across that little info gem in one of these threads. Anyway I adjusted it, put the saw back together and it started on the 4th pull. Surprised the crap out of me! I was still skeptical so I let the saw sit on the bench for 6 days. Do you know how hard it was to let it sit there, just knowing it might actually start? I couldn't stand it any longer and tried it again yesterday. Yep, started on the 4th pull again. Perfect! Or perfect enough! It runs great. I'm sure all the other "repairs" helped too.

It was my first chainsaw repair and first carb rebuild and I learned it all here at AS. Thanks for all the replies!

Well my fellow CADians, we got another member. He may not know it yet but we got him.

Congrats on getting the saw running. Hey I got an idea, why dont you find another saw cheap and fix it and sell it. Then after you sell a few you keep the cool ones. Then sell more, fix more to buy more and more and more and more.......HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

:msp_lol:
 
Glad you got the problem solved- a few more thoughts for folks reading this thread in the future.

I've seen an 026 with a broken control lever- hard starting because the choke wasn't being held closed. New control lever fixed it right up.

There's also a little red rubber umbrella thingy that can be installed in the tank vent on the older saws that use the tower style vent- it's a check valve that allows the fuel tank to build and hold a little pressure, making for easier cold starts, or so the theory goes.
 
I've seen an 026 with a broken control lever- hard starting because the choke wasn't being held closed. New control lever fixed it right up.

Got a used 440 with a worn/broken master control lever. When set to the choke position, the choke butterfly closes but the throttle butterfly stays closed, too. Cold starts take 10 pulls for the motor to catch. Warm starts OK. New part coming in next week.
 
Well my fellow CADians, we got another member. He may not know it yet but we got him.

Congrats on getting the saw running. Hey I got an idea, why dont you find another saw cheap and fix it and sell it. Then after you sell a few you keep the cool ones. Then sell more, fix more to buy more and more and more and more.......HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

:msp_lol:


It's true. I actually posted that a while back but since then I've ported and muffler modded that 026, picked up an 036 pro and rebuilt that along with a port job and muffler mod, an MS170 lightly modified with adjustable carb and muffler mod and currently have several 010AV and 011AV in various stages of rebuild/repair. Somehow, I've also been crowned the family expert for chainsaw, weed whacker and leaf blower repair. :dizzy: I'm having a blast!
 
All, Thank you for this thread. Even though I have a Jonsered 650, this pointed me in the right direction. I did not notice that the choke was not fully closing. While fiddling with it I could see that I had about a 1/8" more pull I could do on the choke to close it all the way. I tested the choke theory by stuffing a diaper wipe in the carb and sure enough, it sputtered on the second pull. The problem is that there are two pieces of metal that are pressed on the choke shaft--one goes to the choke lever and the other holds the throttle open when the choke is pulled. After 20 years of use, one had slid a little and when the choke was closed it would come back just a little letting too much air in. A few smart taps on the choke arm piece of metal, brought them to closer together (make a smaller V on the shaft) and sure enough it starts on the second pull. What was amazing to me was how small an opening on the choke made this happen.
Thanks again.
Cheers,
Todd
 
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