HELP - Trouble with 044 #2
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GrassGuerilla
Olympic Piss-reving wanna be.
I already dumped the fuel & replaced it, and pulled the flywheel to ensure it was still "on key".
Will replace the fuel line tomorrow, just to make sure, and then check the flywheel for play and ck the ignition.
Will replace the fuel line tomorrow, just to make sure, and then check the flywheel for play and ck the ignition.
windthrown
361 Junkie
As suggested, they want you to check the fuel tank vent to make sure it is allowing air to replace the gas as it is used in the tank. If the vent is clogged that can cause a vacuum and not allow fuel to flow. Cracking the gas cap allows air into the tank if the vent is clogged up or the vent line is pinched.
SN on Stihl saws do not really correlate to time of use on them, or even when they are first sold. Many sit in warehouses in Germany or the US before they are distributed. Many sit on shelves at dealerships, and then after they are first sold.
SN on Stihl saws do not really correlate to time of use on them, or even when they are first sold. Many sit in warehouses in Germany or the US before they are distributed. Many sit on shelves at dealerships, and then after they are first sold.
I had other things to keep me busy yesterday, but today I installed an OEM fuel line & filter ... no help. So I cracked the gas cap till I saw fuel seeping ... no help. I pulled the recoil and tried to detect play in the flywheel, but I could not. Not sure I would be able to detect it, but I tried. Also, the gap looks good and I cleaned the surfaces (there was some oil fouled sawdust on them).
I'm exhausted on ideas other than changing the coil, but willing to listen if anyone thinks of something else.
Thanks.
I'm exhausted on ideas other than changing the coil, but willing to listen if anyone thinks of something else.
Thanks.
Big_Wood
westcoast dweller
metering lever in the carb set to low starving jets of fuel after choke is off.
I checked it before I rebuilt the carb, and it was fine. I rebuilt the carb and replaced that part, still did not work, so I installed a new carb. I don't think it is the carb.
Big_Wood
westcoast dweller
ok. the OP and thread was TL so i DR 
Anyone know of a coil doing this? Starts, but won't run???
cutforfun
Addicted to ArboristSite
Switch the coil from your other saw, rule it out.
T27_Scrench
ArboristSite Lurker
My 026 did exactly what you describe a few months back. The fuel system was all new, and I had a spare coil lying around so I swapped it out. No change. Turned out to be the spark plug. Ceramic was cracked inside it, and as soon as combustion heat got it hot, the spark jumped inside the plug instead of in the cylinder. Fired the saw up in the dark and watched it happen. Really weird and was a first for me. The plug was a NGK BPM7Y and had been in the saw 6 years. Sometime we forget the simple stuff...
Thanks guys for the suggestions.
I have already changed the spark plug (that & fuel filter were the first things I did).
With aftermarket coils being rather cheap, I think I'll leave my other saw running, but thanks for the suggestion, I did think of that.
I have already changed the spark plug (that & fuel filter were the first things I did).
With aftermarket coils being rather cheap, I think I'll leave my other saw running, but thanks for the suggestion, I did think of that.
Trx250r180
Saw polisher
Have you pulled the plug out and sit the plug electrode against the jug and check for spark pulling it over ? if have spark and fuel it will run unless your engine is broked ,have you pulled the muffler cover off and see if smoked the piston yet ?
If you have good spark ,dump a little mix down the spark plug hole and see if it pops off ,if it does run doing that ,you are not getting fuel for some reason ,also try another new spark plug ,sometimes if the electrode is fouled it will not run
If you have good spark ,dump a little mix down the spark plug hole and see if it pops off ,if it does run doing that ,you are not getting fuel for some reason ,also try another new spark plug ,sometimes if the electrode is fouled it will not run
Brian, it starts, it just won't run. I'm sure there is spark, or it would not start. I've done everything I can think of to address a fuel issue, so I'm going to try another coil unless there are other ideas. I spoke to a repair guy at Stihl today and he told me sometimes coils do strange things. He offered to test it by putting another coil in it, but I figured that would cost me more than getting an AM coil.
The only good thing is, when I do get it running, it should run like new for a long time!
The only good thing is, when I do get it running, it should run like new for a long time!
GrassGuerilla
Olympic Piss-reving wanna be.
Mike, don't you have two? Swap coils and see if the problem moves. Hope you get it solved.
Thanks, I will just try a new one, they don't cost enough for me to go through the trouble. The other 044 runs great, I'm leaving it alone!
fearofpavement
Trying them all
But, but, but, by moving parts from one to another you can actually identify bad parts. If you have two 044s I think you should switch parts over one at a time until you can move the problem to the running saw. (And then likely the other one will be running.) It's not that hard to switch the coil. If you put on an aftermarket one and the saw still doesn't run are you SURE it's not the coil? If you take the known good coil off the running saw and put it on the dead saw and it works, then you've found the problem. I' would do the same thing with spark plug, carburetor, etc. You have an ideal opportunity by having two saws to find and fix the correct problem without shotgunning it (which is what you've been doing).
You are correct Fear, but how much more can it be??? If the new coil does not make it work, I will follow your advice. I think it is very unlikely a replacement carb or spark plug that is also bad would do the exact same think. It is not like it does not fire, it just does not run.
I guess it has just been very frustrating and I'm tired of taking them apart and putting them back together again. It is a pain in the neck to do the impulse line, and those new green fuel lines are tough to get in, but the saw will be better because I changed them (especially the cracked but not yet broken impulse line).
Thanks for your comments.
I guess it has just been very frustrating and I'm tired of taking them apart and putting them back together again. It is a pain in the neck to do the impulse line, and those new green fuel lines are tough to get in, but the saw will be better because I changed them (especially the cracked but not yet broken impulse line).
Thanks for your comments.
fearofpavement
Trying them all
The carbs are easy to switch. Try that. If nothing changes and the new carb runs on the other saw, then you for sure have eliminated the carb issue. That's what I would do with the coil too. If you put a new part on and that part was defective, you can move to other stuff assuming it wasn't the problem. By moving the problem to the other saw, you can know for certainty what was broken. Sure, it's some work but knowing instead of guessing has some value.
fearofpavement
Trying them all
Please elaborate on what you mean when you say the saw will start but not run.
