HELP - Trouble with 044 #2

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Swapping parts over does kinda get old. And I hear ya about leaving the running one the hell alone. But here's my take. You know you have good parts right there. In an hour or two you will almost certainly have it pin pointed. Then order a new one. The old order, wait for part, and pray that's what you need gets old too. You have a spare carb, a carb kit used up on an old carb... How many more spares you want? Nothing wrong with hording. ;)
 
Did you tear the new fuel line when installing ? I Did that once and it would not stay running like you are describing
 
The saw has plenty of compression, that new fuel line was tough to install, but I did not tear it, and I inspected the old one carefully and could find nothing wrong with it.

I don't have a vac/pressure tester. If the coil does not work, I may bring it to someone who does.
 
When cold, the saw will go for about 20 seconds and die. Then, if you keep trying to start it, it will kick, but die just as it gets up to speed.
Mike, Sounds like something is wrong with your impulse signal, either from the case to the carb, or at the carb. You swapped carbs, problem still exists, check where the impulse fitting goes into the case.

Will it idle all day long and stall when given throttle , or will it quit at idle also ?
Still revs up to full speed then dies, right ........... both carbs ? (is it strong revving up, or does it sound lean as its revving up)

I'd be happy to look at it for you ............
 
Additional thought ................. The fuel line is a funky install, easy to pinch and cut it or fold it and pinch off fuel to the carb, especially at the turn up and to the carb, as well as through the tank itself ..................... just thinking out loud
 
It seemed like fuel to me too, but I've done all the fuel things I can think of. Replaced the filter, tired it w/o a filter, took the fuel line out & inspected it, then re-installed it. Then got a new fuel line & filter & put it in, rebuilt the carb, then replaced the carb. Nothing has changed. There are no pinches in the newly installed line (a Stihl Green line), good, but hard to install.

I disconnected the breather hose, and tried to run it with the cap loose, but ordered a new fuel filter any way (along with the coil).

I've also replaced the impulse line, and checked that the timing is on, and the gap to the coil is good, no detectable play in the flywheel.

Brad, is it durability or the timing curve you don't like on AM? If I determine it is the coil, I may search for OEM, but for now I just want it to run. Most of the used ones I saw on ebay looked like they may not work.
 
Pull the B&C off, then hold the powerhead in right hand with throttle open and start, grab squirt bottle of mix-gas with left hand and see if you can control RPM's with the mix .................... easy to do and I have to do it all the time in the shop repairing saws ............... pull the B&C and go for it !!!!!!!!
 
Have you tried another spark plug again yet ?is the old one dry or wet ?,the gap between the flywheel and the coil should be the thickness of a business card ,also how is the wire harness ? the old 044 ones i have ran across get old and brittle and can ground out to the case sometimes with bare spots
 
Brian, as I previously said the plug is usually a little wet, which is why I thing spark may be disappearing.
When you run your 2 cycle out of fuel, have you looked at the plug ?
My cylinder/plug/etc is allways wet (with oil), even after running dry of fuel


No matter ............ most important is that you do not give up or take it somewhere (unless one of us puts our grubby paws on it for you) ............ when you get time - we'd be happy to walk you through it all. Whosever guessignosis turns out to be correct wont mean squirt, getting your saw back in action for you is the key.
 
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