Homelite Chainsaws

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And the good news is:

I've noticed that there are new pistons w/rings available online and not just the leftover NOS units for Homelite SXL's.

1 13/16" bore seems to be fairly common. Pioneer 1200, Craftsman/Roper 3.7", Poulan 361, Remington PL/SL-4 come to mind.
 
I've noticed that there are new pistons w/rings available online and not just the leftover NOS units for Homelite SXL's.

1 13/16" bore seems to be fairly common. Pioneer 1200, Craftsman/Roper 3.7", Poulan 361, Remington PL/SL-4 come to mind.

Carl when swapping pistons between models/brands yo need to carefully check a few things.

-Pin bore to crown height.

-distance etween the rings and the crown and pin.

-Pin to bottom of skirt length.

-pin diameter.

-conrod 'little end' width. Distance between pin bosses on piston.

-ring locating pin location. Don't wanna snag a ring in a port.

-squish measurement when installed.

-pressance/absence of rod clearance cuts, port windows, or other features on the skirt(s).
 
Carl when swapping pistons between models/brands yo need to carefully check a few things.

-Pin bore to crown height.

-distance etween the rings and the crown and pin.

-Pin to bottom of skirt length.

-pin diameter.

-conrod 'little end' width. Distance between pin bosses on piston.

-ring locating pin location. Don't wanna snag a ring in a port.

-squish measurement when installed.

-pressance/absence of rod clearance cuts, port windows, or other features on the skirt(s).

Yup, for sure, for sure.:msp_sneaky:
 
Picked up my first Zip. It has spark and compression but I will have to go through the fuel system, so new lines filter and kit for the carb. I do have a spare tilly with a new kit in it. It also has a 8 pin .404 rim which will go on my 770D.
Photo0281.jpg
 
anyone know how much a homie ez6 would be worth. looks to be complete with good compression. said to have been running when set up. may be two of them. ones definitely an ez6, don't know what model the other is but is definitely a homie of the same era.
 
starting to put my C5 back together. got most of the parts assembled. question - when putting the seals in do i pack the back side of the seal with grease like i do with wheel seals. also, do i need to coat the outer edge of the seal with gasket compound or just put it in dry. also, when i took it apart, the seal on the flywheel side had been driven down to be in contact with the bearing; should i reassemble it like that or should it be even with the case top? thanks, jerry
 
anyone know how much a homie ez6 would be worth. looks to be complete with good compression. said to have been running when set up. may be two of them. ones definitely an ez6, don't know what model the other is but is definitely a homie of the same era.

It depends on what it looks like and if you can find a buyer. They don't bring much on 'the bay unless it's really nice and it helps if it runs. I guessing around $50 if it's complete.
 
starting to put my C5 back together. got most of the parts assembled. question - when putting the seals in do i pack the back side of the seal with grease like i do with wheel seals. also, do i need to coat the outer edge of the seal with gasket compound or just put it in dry. also, when i took it apart, the seal on the flywheel side had been driven down to be in contact with the bearing; should i reassemble it like that or should it be even with the case top? thanks, jerry

Wouldn't hurt to put a little Moto Seal or silicone on the outside of the seal..as for the grease, I wouldn't, but a light coating of 2 cycle oil probably wouldn't hurt. I would put the seal even with the case. Others may chime in here with differing opinions...
 
I agree. Just a little oil in the seal lip, and a thin smear of motoseal around the metal seal body. I usually put 'em flush with the face of the case. If there's some room to play with, you may want to look at the crank surface to see if there's a groove worn it it from the last seal lip. If so, seat the seal a bit deeper if you can to put the seal lip on 'virgin' metal. Since the last seal was driven in deep, the groove (if there) is probably worn on a spot on the crank farther in than where the new seal lip will ride if you seat the seal body flush with the case....
 
anyone know how much a homie ez6 would be worth. looks to be complete with good compression. said to have been running when set up. may be two of them. ones definitely an ez6, don't know what model the other is but is definitely a homie of the same era.

I think I paid around $40-$50 for my original EZs (EZ6 was the next model). Worth more if in real good shape with good original decals and the "ash tray" starter pulley cover but it all depends on who wants it.
 
Anyone know what a Homelite model D61 is? I know its an export model, just not sure what the domestic version of it is.

Jim
 
Homelite 150 Automatic

Yesterday I was doing a property clean-up for some friends and ended up with a couple of chainsaws in the process. One of them is a pretty cool looking Homelite 150 Automatic that didn't look too beat up for it's age!! The other one is some small generic Craftsman(might make a good loaner/truck saw if I can get it running).

Sooo since I have not a clue about this 150 Automatic I figured asking here in the Homelite thread might just produce some good background knowledge on the track record of this saw. How strong do they run..........were they a durable saw.........how to know if it's a points or electronic ignition before tearing into it(was there a production S/N when they transistioned from points??)........is it worth putting money into it cause it will most likely need a new bar/chain assembly!!???????
 
Yesterday I was doing a property clean-up for some friends and ended up with a couple of chainsaws in the process. One of them is a pretty cool looking Homelite 150 Automatic that didn't look too beat up for it's age!! The other one is some small generic Craftsman(might make a good loaner/truck saw if I can get it running).

Sooo since I have not a clue about this 150 Automatic I figured asking here in the Homelite thread might just produce some good background knowledge on the track record of this saw. How strong do they run..........were they a durable saw.........how to know if it's a points or electronic ignition before tearing into it(was there a production S/N when they transistioned from points??)........is it worth putting money into it cause it will most likely need a new bar/chain assembly!!???????

I'm one of few that actually like the 150 chainsaws! They have adequate power if tuned right, one of a kind looks and are fairly easy to use. Most of the complaints come when people have to work on them, not the easiest to the inexperienced but after you've done a few it gets better. If you plan to use one you'd better pick up a few for spares because most places don't carry parts for them anymore. Ebay still has parts and parts saws though.
 
I'm one of few that actually like the 150 chainsaws! They have adequate power if tuned right, one of a kind looks and are fairly easy to use. Most of the complaints come when people have to work on them, not the easiest to the inexperienced but after you've done a few it gets better. If you plan to use one you'd better pick up a few for spares because most places don't carry parts for them anymore. Ebay still has parts and parts saws though.

Thanks for your informative response! By chance do you know the timeframe(S/N wise) of when the 150 went to the electronic ignition vs. the points??

Any chance you might have a link to where a on-line parts manual or parts list would be??
 
Will the carb off a Zip work on an EZ?

Acres says they are different but not sure if they are too different.

Should work Steve. Only difference may be in the throttle arm. Both are Tillotson HL's. I have a Zip carb and an EZ carb to compare this weekend.
 
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Thanks for your informative response! By chance do you know the timeframe(S/N wise) of when the 150 went to the electronic ignition vs. the points??

Any chance you might have a link to where a on-line parts manual or parts list would be??

Honestly, I didn't know the 150 ever had the electronic ignition. All I ever had were points models. Not to fear though, I can't tell the difference when they're running whether they're points or not.

I looked through my manuals and don't have one for the 150. You can go to the "Beg for Manuals" thread and somebody will fix you up with one. Those guys are pretty good at that..
 
Honestly, I didn't know the 150 ever had the electronic ignition. All I ever had were points models. Not to fear though, I can't tell the difference when they're running whether they're points or not.

I looked through my manuals and don't have one for the 150. You can go to the "Beg for Manuals" thread and somebody will fix you up with one. Those guys are pretty good at that..

I've seen NOS electronic ign modules for 150's on feebay before. IIRC, I've seen factory "conversion kits" for 150's too. It had a module, flywheel, and other stuff I can't remember. Since I'm not in the "love 'em" camp for the 150's (and guys either love 'em or.....), I didn't look too closely at the listings. I have seen TONS of NOS parts for those things on the bay over the last year. About six months ago, there was a sudden increase of it. Some distributor or dealer must've sold out their NOS stuff. Lots of NOS cases, ignitions, P/C's, whole engines, and the like. Only thing on 150's that I pay attention to are the clutch drums (when they're rim drive) and the bars, as they can both be used on my Super E-Z's...:D
 
The irony of the 150 is, at least in a few older Homelite shop notes, it was actually built for ease of service! I tend to agree, but as already said, you have to do it a few times to understand it. If its your first time tearing into one, its so unconventional compared to other saws that everything seems weird. Give it half a chance though and its a really simple saw to repair. It was Homelite's first piston ported saw.

Dan
 
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