Hot blast enemy or friend

[Whitespider]

...the vent temps are before the blower kicks on so fan speed will not change that.

Oh... wow... I don't know how those are supposed to work, but that don't seem right to me at all. I would think the circulation blower should come on when air jacket temps are somewhere in the 110°-130° range. When I said my air jacket temps would hit the 200° limit, I was talkin' when the circulation blower running on high speed... the "limit" just shut down the draft induction blower.
*

 

[Whitespider]

Only because something didn't seem right, I just downloaded the manual for your Tundra.
If your grill thermometer is reading air jacket temperature correctly, and it's reaching something near 200° before the blower kicks on, something ain't right. It should come on at 140°, shut off at 120°... and there is, or should be, a 160° limit switch that shuts down the air intake.
This is from page 60...

9.3 Fan control
The fan is activated when the air jacket temperature of the furnace reaches 140 °F and
stops when it drops below 120 °F. If the air jacket temperature exceeds 160 °F, the air inlet
damper closes and the fan will continues to blow until temperature returns below 120 °F at
which point the air inlet control will open again.

Although I did find a discrepancy... the wiring diagram on page 58 shows a 110° fan control and a 200° limit switch. Meaning the blower should start up when air jacket temps reach 110°, and the air intake should close at 200° (200° actually makes more sense than 160°... to me anyway). Either way, the blower should come on well before 180°-200°.

 

[Whitespider]

Yeah... I know... I keep amending what I'm sayin'... but...
I just went back and reread what you've posted. If you took the temp measurement 12-iinches up in the the 8-inch heat vent pipe, and the blower is set to start at 140° (as stated on page 60), it would be possible for the temperatures to be somewhat higher than those in the actual air jacket below. But even at 180°-200° 12 inches above... that's a difference of 40°-60°, and that still seems like a lot (to me). If the blower is set to start at 110° (as shown in the wiring diagram)... that's a difference of 70°-90°, and that's definitely indicating something ain't right.
*

 

[laynes69]

The higher temps also occur in the Caddy, must be the location of the sensors, both are located above the large heat exchanger tube. I know there's been a few users that had their sensors replaced from the company. Whitespider is right, temperatures should not be that high, that's quite a difference in temperature.

 

[Cpeder]

Well I figured that problem out! The face of the grill thermometer was rotated counter clockwise. I didn't not no it moved. So let it get to room temp and set it to zero. Now I'm reading 110 roughly and 90 while blowers are on cooling the exchangers.

 

[Whitespider]

Ah-Ha‼
LOL‼
I'm not sayin' any more than that
After-all, I did have an "issue" with my thermostat a couple weeks back
*

 

[Cpeder]

I had to laugh once I noticed it moved. Oh well problem solved

 

[brenndatomu]

Ah-Ha‼
LOL‼
I'm not sayin' any more than that
After-all, I did have an "issue" with my thermostat a couple weeks back
*

Dang gadgets!

 

[brenndatomu]

Ah-Ha‼
LOL‼
I'm not sayin' any more than that
After-all, I did have an "issue" with my thermostat a couple weeks back
*

Let me guess, it was stuck on readin 70* all the time

 

[flotek]

I believe that Just because you don't see ghost flames after a couple hours doesn't mean the secondaries are not helping . Not all combustion is visible to the eye . I know from dumping old race fuel on cardboard and scrap lumber that You can light methanol and never see so much as a flicker but it will consume the whole thing and burn you badly

 

[Cpeder]

So what kind of stack temps are you guys havin with the caddy? I'm running at 110 with the damper closed and 250 with the damper open. The would is less then 20% moisture.

 

[laynes69]

I see around the same. With the damper open 250 sounds right, the highest I've seen was close to 300. With it shut down, 125-150.

 

[Cpeder]

No creosote issues with temps that low? The gas has a long way to travel up a 32" exterior chimney and cool.

 

[laynes69]

No creosote issues with temps that low? The gas has a long way to travel up a 32" exterior chimney and cool.

No, I have a 5.5" insulated liner. I get some creosote towards the top, but it's very little. The problem before the liner was condensation, the flue was too cool and draft was poor.

 

[newyorker]

i see about the same temps i got on the roof to clean the chimney for the first time last week and their was zero creosote im think il just have to clean it once a year the way its looking 15ft 6" stainless inside chimney

 

[chucker]

i see about the same temps i got on the roof to clean the chimney for the first time last week and their was zero creosote im think il just have to clean it once a year the way its looking 15ft 6" stainless inside chimney

!!!!!!!!!!! "DONT FOOL YOURSELF" !!!!!!!!!! chimney fires are always starting when the operator is over confident that their good to go and alls safe! check your flue every month and stay alive to see a second 55! !"WEAK UP" ........ BEFORE YOUR DEAD!

 

[newyorker]

chimney fires start because operator error...bottom line

 

[Cpeder]

If end up with a 6 inch liner I will have no room for insulation. But if draft is good I don't see the need for it. I check my flue often sweep as needed. The house and chimney not even two years old yet. Taracota flue with chimney block around ect. Pretty common. I feel most peoples problems with this type of chimney is when the flue has chips or chunks out of it where the creosote deposits then when u sweep it looks flush even tho there's a big chunk still there. Seen this on houses I've renovated.

 

[Cpeder]

Agreed normally is operator error. Correct me if I'm wrong but in makes sence to me The beauty of the caddy tundra or kuuma is the lack of the higher temps it takes to ignite creosote.

 

[laynes69]

If end up with a 6 inch liner I will have no room for insulation. But if draft is good I don't see the need for it. I check my flue often sweep as needed. The house and chimney not even two years old yet. Taracota flue with chimney block around ect. Pretty common. I feel most peoples problems with this type of chimney is when the flue has chips or chunks out of it where the creosote deposits then when u sweep it looks flush even tho there's a big chunk still there. Seen this on houses I've renovated.

Insulation is required if the structure of the chimney is not up to code. An unlined chimney, a chimney with cracked or damaged flue tiles, etc. Many people line chimney's that are up to code and don't insulate. If you choose to line, just stuff some rock wool around the liner at the top of the chimney to create a dead air space around the liner. Don't forget to sweep well to remove any deposits before lining.