How much better is a 372xp with the cylinder skirt removed?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Adam08ski

ArboristSite Guru
Joined
Oct 12, 2016
Messages
709
Reaction score
618
Location
Essex, UK
As the title suggests, I have a 372xp, pulls a 20" lovely. I have deleted the base gasket and ground a couple of holes in the muffler bolt holes.

It runs nice, but I notice that a lot of people remove the material on the cylinder skirt around the port transfers.

How much better can this make the saw? What am I likely to see or notice?

Thanks,

Adam
 
How come? To be honest I'm not that bothered about tearing the saw to pieces considering it is working well. Just seen it being done, think Spike60 had a youtube video on it. I am guessing that is a lot of material to remove therefore affecting case volume and all?
 
There is debate that it does anything on a ported saw even but some say it works for them. I do grind those area's but really only a touch more then the jug is lowered. I've done it that way many times and never saw a gain over the way i'm doing it and the way i do it is less grinding. I would say that bringing that wall up will yield you nothing noticable by itself and would probably take a special kind of port work to even take advantage of it.
 
You want to make a fast 372 with minimal risk? Order a non windowed Husqvarna 268 piston and get a machine shop to cut a pop up on the top. You will have to figure how much needs cut to get the proper squish clearance as just cutting off the difference in piston height will result in loose squish like all 372's have. Once the clearance is correct, assemble, and go cut wood.
I would advise you to keep your grinder away from that cylinder until you have a better understanding of porting. Stock 372 is like 101/124/78 or something like that and with that piston cut with a pop up you get a compression increase with an acceptable squish clearance and an intake of 88 or so. Compression ends up 180-190 psi if you get it right and you can use an OEM base gasket. It's alot of intake duration but it doesn't seem to hurt them at all and no spit back, just DO NOT lower the intake anymore if you port it.
I've built 4 that way but without the popup and they will run with any other ported 372 even before any actual porting. 3 of the ones i built were done with farmertec pistons @ $3 each lol. Chamber cutting way is trickier cause you got to degree the cylinder and bring everything back up which is a bit more involved then some should get.
This is the easiest way for a guy to get a fast 372 that can compete with the rest and is entirely reversable if you do the popup way. This will also likely get you more gains then any porting you do if you don't understand porting to begin with.
 
Yep. With the 372 I'll run anything from .018 to .024. I always prefer to be over .020. The 268 piston is very simple to do. No need to even think really. Some guys make it work by stacking base gaskets but they are never as strong that way. This is not to say the 268 piston is the best route to go but it's definitely the easiest for a guy looking for a strong 372. You could even roughly grind the pop up on the piston and it would work as long as you finished it nice. At the most is might cost a guy a piston if he screws it up but then you still got your OEM 372 piston to throw back in.
 
Forgot the mention that the stock 372 piston is 97 grams with no pin, clips, or rings. The OEM 268 piston is 73 grams and the farmertec is 66 grams. The lighter piston makes a huge difference in the way it revs and throttle response.
Little disclaimer though, like many AM pistons the 268 piston from farmertec is to wide between the wrist pin journals and allows for some rod walk but minimal. Golf full circle 266 piston is worse sadly. So use AM pistons at your own risk. I'm not gonna tell you to use a farmertec and have it grenade only to catch hell from you guys. Just remember, YOU will determine the quality of your build even if it's as simple as cutting a piston to fit. The OEM 268 piston fits the rod like the OEM 372 piston.
The farmertec ones i built are not seeing production but they are being tested by firewood hacks in the area to see if they hold up. Farmertec ring and wrist pin as well as it's a good bit shorter then the 372 pin. OEM clips and pin bearing. I do have one i've been cutting with on the hill but i built it with an OEM 268 piston. With this new lumber tax i have a feeling it may be shelved for a while :(
 
you want to make a fast 372 with minimal risk? order a non windowed husqvarna 268 piston and get a machine shop to cut a pop up on the top. you will have to figure how much needs cut to get the proper squish clearance as just cutting off the difference in piston height will result in loose squish like all 372's have. once the clearance is correct, assemble, and go cut wood. i would advise you to keep your grinder away from that cylinder until you have a better understanding of porting. stock 372 is like 101/124/78 or something like that and with that piston cut with a pop up you get a compression increase with an acceptable squish clearence and an intake of 88 or so. compression ends up 180-190 psi if you get it right and you can use an OEM base gasket. it's alot of intake duration but it doesn't seem to hurt them at all and no spit back. just DO NOT lower the intake anymore if you port it. i've built 4 that way but without the popup and they will run with any other ported 372 even before any actual porting. 3 of the ones i built were done with farmertec pistons @ $3 each lol chamber cutting way is trickier cause you got to degree the cylinder and bring everything back up which is a bit more involved then some should get. this is the easiest way for a guy to get a fast 372 that can compete with the rest and is entirely reversable if you do the popup way. this will likely get you more gains then any porting you do if you don't understand porting to begin with.

So I understand basic exhaust and inlet opening. I am new to porting though. I have always done the usual open the muffler out, reduce squish and see what can be done with any intake mods IE opening out elbows and flanges around the filter etc. Never looked at transfer porting. Just looked on the 372 cylinder and the skirt looks to me like it is a barrier of sorts. I am obviously wrong though. I may investigate the 268 route. Keep my meteor piston on the side. I have worked 9 years in a machine shop and workshops. I'll be fine on the lathe. Thanks for the info.
 
On a side note I may just keep this 372 as it is. The meteor piston and cylinder are very shiny. :laugh:

However...

I shall get a 268 piston for a small project though. Do meteor ones measure better than farmertec and golf?

And I do have an 038 Mag with an oem, hyway and farmertec 52mm all associated with it.. can probably find something to do with that one ;)
 
The cool thing about the 268 piston is as long as you are smart enough to cut the pop up and get a good squish clearance your golden. No need to even think about numbers cause the pop up brings timing back to stock. So basicly your running stock exhaust and transfer timing with a bunch of compression and intake duration. You won't win races with it but it'll impress the hell out of you everyday you use it. I do the squish mod and bring everything up to my own numbers so they are stronger then just the popup will get you but the popup is still a dang stout saw.
I've never used a Meteor or Hyway 268 piston so can't say but i believe they only make the windowed 268xp pistons which work also but are heavier then the flat side 268 pistons. Use whatever you see fit, I just used the regular 268 one cause i had one OEM here and i know it works well. If you could find an OEM 266 full circle piston that would be killer. The Golf copy of the full circle piston is 78 grams but had no OEM to weigh. Still a good bit lighter then OEM 372 piston but the rod can walk way to much for me to consider the golf an option.
 
The cool thing about the 268 piston is as long as you are smart enough to cut the pop up and get a good squish clearance your golden. No need to even think about numbers cause the pop up brings timing back to stock. So basicly your running stock exhaust and transfer timing with a bunch of compression and intake duration. You won't win races with it but it'll impress the hell out of you everyday you use it. I do the squish mod and bring everything up to my own numbers so they are stronger then just the popup will get you but the popup is still a dang stout saw.
I've never used a Meteor or Hyway 268 piston so can't say but i believe they only make the windowed 268xp pistons which work also but are heavier then the flat side 268 pistons. Use whatever you see fit, I just used the regular 268 one cause i had one OEM here and i know it works well. If you could find an OEM 266 full circle piston that would be killer. The Golf copy of the full circle piston is 78 grams but had no OEM to weigh. Still a good bit lighter then OEM 372 piston but the rod can walk way to much for me to consider the golf an option.
Skirt longer or are you gaining intake?
 
I always check to see what one looks like at bdc,I'll grind any blockage but generally don't do any extra on a work saw.
20170502_153306.jpg
 
Skirt shorter or are you gaining intake?

quite a bit shorter. the intake is ****** but it makes a saw that runs much better then stock and takes care of the excessive squish issue. very doable mod for anyone which is why i mentioned it. the 268 piston saws i've done have great power across the board with ideal compression and are so easy to start it's retarded. like 2 pulls cold and a real half hearted pull warm.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top