How much throttle when cutting

[partsman51]

So, just am curious, how should one operate the chainsaw when cutting, I am only using a chainsaw once in a while, either taking down the last of my trees which I just did recently, or while out hunting to cut firewood, so am curious should one rev up full as you apply the chain to the wood or a moderate amount till it starts to cut then should you be full throttle or just enough throttle to cut through?
Wondering if I am not using the saw in the proper manner.

 

[mattfr12]

2 stroke engines are designed to run at high RPM chainsaws have a preset RPM limit from the factory to keep you from over reving them. but throttle application can change in different situations like when felling a tree when your getting close to the hinge sometimes i start pulling the chain slower.

 

[Bubbles Up]

Partsman51, Hello from Chilliwack!

When I start the cut I burp the throttle and make a mark in the bark,lift a bit then squeeze it full , all the way thru the cut.Make the chips or noodles fly! I do back off the throttle just as the log is about to drop ,I also slow up a bit on the end of my back cut just before it falls!

 

[Zombiechopper]

As a rule, always cut at full throttle. Chainsaws can run lean at part throttle. The above noted exceptions are fine.

 

[Brodie]

As stated all the above are good practices but the chainsaw is made to run at full revs all times when cutting. Kickback is more likely to occur when the chainsaw is at low revs.
The above should be practiced by people who really know how to use a chainsaw.

 

[ropensaddle]

As stated all the above are good practices but the chainsaw is made to run at full revs all times when cutting. Kickback is more likely to occur when the chainsaw is at low revs.
The above should be practiced by people who really know how to use a chainsaw.

Wide open and blurping near hinge in felling needs done by anyone felling a tree. If you cut wide open all the way through the notch, you just lost control of the tree. Not letting up can be a safety hazard even in buckingopcorn:

 

[ropensaddle]

Having said that, when in the cut wide open is the rule.

 

[BobL]

WOT - unless doing the stuff that other folk said.

 

[Anthony_Va.]

Always go wide open thru the cut, and just use common sense when getting near the end of the cut.

 

[Brodie]

Don't really want to start an argument but what has been told to us in Australia its full throttle or no throttle. If you are in a cut there is no need to dip or "blurp" the throttle you just need to release pressure from the wood being cut.

When im felling something from the ground im usually doing it with the 660 and im not having that thing kicking back on me. Ill keep the saw at full revs all the way through the cut, if i need a slower cut then i will pull the saw off the wood slightly. The saw is still cutting it is just taking less wood on each chain revolution.

 

[RandyMac]

Well, to me, the trigger is like a switch, it's on or off. Sometimes, a little blip is needed.

 

[luvsaws]

:agree2: WOT

 

[ropensaddle]

Don't really want to start an argument but what has been told to us in Australia its full throttle or no throttle. If you are in a cut there is no need to dip or "blurp" the throttle you just need to release pressure from the wood being cut.

When im felling something from the ground im usually doing it with the 660 and im not having that thing kicking back on me. Ill keep the saw at full revs all the way through the cut, if i need a slower cut then i will pull the saw off the wood slightly. The saw is still cutting it is just taking less wood on each chain revolution.

Lmfao we got us a dual so your wot all the way through to the dirt ehhhhh mate? I will admit I am wot 95.5 % of the cut but at ends or in hinge Ill check up a lil usually drive a wedge and make sure its going as planned. I have seen too many hinges break with tree usually going to the side and it was usually a greenhorn cutting too fast. From the saws best point of view wot in full load is optimum but near the ends many times full load diminishes. My 372 has cut millions if not trillions of cuts in its seven years and still runs great. If I got the chain the way I usually have it not letting up will turn a notched cut into a fast cut or cut straight through to dirt in bucking.<a href="http://www.sweetim.com/s.asp?im=gen&lpver=3&ref=11" target="_blank"><img src="http://content.sweetim.com/sim/cpie/emoticons/0002005E.gif" border="0" title="Click to get more." ></a>

 

[MCW]

Lmfao we got us a dual so your wot all the way through to the dirt ehhhhh mate? I will admit I am wot 95.5 % of the cut but at ends or in hinge Ill check up a lil usually drive a wedge and make sure its going as planned. I have seen too many hinges break with tree usually going to the side and it was usually a greenhorn cutting too fast. From the saws best point of view wot in full load is optimum but near the ends many times full load diminishes. My 372 has cut millions if not trillions of cuts in its seven years and still runs great. If I got the chain the way I usually have it not letting up will turn a notched cut into a fast cut or cut straight through to dirt in bucking.

I'm with you Rope. Blipping the throttle is fine when you're nearing the hinge or end of a cut. Big grunty saws at WOT on smaller trees with a nice cutting chain will always sneak up and bite you occasionally blasting straight through the hinge. Not a good idea to hold a saw at WOT and then semi back out of a cut.

The WOT theory is more for firewood cutters and mentioned in manuals to appease the lawyers. Just like cutting above your head. If you know what you're doing it's fine, and in some cases just has to be done. If you use a chainsaw a few times a year best you keep that saw below waist height though...

 

[BobL]

in a twenty minute milling cut I will 3/4 throttle for about 10 seconds at the beginning and 10 seconds at the end.

Thats 20 *60 = 1200 second cut

1180/1200 *100 = 98.3% of the time at WOT.

 

[WoodChuck'r]

Just turn the idle way up to keep the chain moving at all times that way you won't need to touch the throttle trigger at all.

 

[ropensaddle]

I'm with you Rope. Blipping the throttle is fine when you're nearing the hinge or end of a cut. Big grunty saws at WOT on smaller trees with a nice cutting chain will always sneak up and bite you occasionally blasting straight through the hinge. Not a good idea to hold a saw at WOT and then semi back out of a cut.

The WOT theory is more for firewood cutters and mentioned in manuals to appease the lawyers. Just like cutting above your head. If you know what you're doing it's fine, and in some cases just has to be done. If you use a chainsaw a few times a year best you keep that saw below waist height though...

I had a guy my last company hired that said he was a sawyer and knew how to fall trees. I never listen with complete trust which is a good thing. Anyway I decided to give him his chance on a tree in a new row that could go anywhere without hurting anything"or so I thought lol" He put the bar in no notch and walked a complete circle and could not hear me yelling tree of course twisted went the worst direction it could and pinched the bar and bent it in a bow It only hurt the bar which was toast and put the tree in a hard spot to clean-up which he did the rest of his day

 

[Sprintcar]

Always go wide open thru the cut, and just use common sense when getting near the end of the cut.

Bucking cuts, WOT, felling cuts use your own best judgment. Base rule of thumb, the more fuel under load, based upon the correct mix of course allows the cylinder walls and piston to stay covered in mix. Running part throttle in a cut you run the risk of a repair bill.

 

[MCW]

I had a guy my last company hired that said he was a sawyer and knew how to fall trees. I never listen with complete trust which is a good thing. Anyway I decided to give him his chance on a tree in a new row that could go anywhere without hurting anything"or so I thought lol" He put the bar in no notch and walked a complete circle and could not hear me yelling tree of course twisted went the worst direction it could and pinched the bar and bent it in a bow It only hurt the bar which was toast and put the tree in a hard spot to clean-up which he did the rest of his day

Hey I've put a number of trees in the wrong spot by flying through the hinge at WOT. It's easier to do than many people think, especially if you're on a tight schedule. I'm very very careful of this now after losing a few
Most people that big note themselves felling trees generally don't know what they're doing in my book - the old angled backcut is the first sign. It helps stop the tree from going backwards and guides the tree - did you know that?

 

[Scandy14]

Wao!!