How to sharpen chain saw

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Ironworker

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Hi I am new and have a husky 455, I would like to know best way to sharpen with dremel and 3/16 stone.
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This is my fourth load in as many years and want to rip thru it as fast as I can with only 1 saw
 
By turning the dremel tool on.

:hmm3grin2orange:

Sorry coulnd't resist.

7

Edit: nice load of wood!
 
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The best way I have found is by hand. When the cut starts turning to one side then I use my bench grinder. Uselly around 3 or 4 hand sharpings. I normally only sharpen when the chain is noticably dull. I really like save edge files. They get the job done the fastest for me. I can sharpen a 36" skip tooth chain in about 7 to 10 min. I also have found that woodland pro chain works best for me. I have hit fence and a few nails with little damage. It only takes a few strokes with a file per tooth to have it razor sharp. Free hand filing works the best for me.

Ray
 
Read the owners manual first then punch up some youtubes and you'll get the right idea.

If you can it's probably better to ask a wood burning friend or neighbor for the heads up. Once you know how...it's easy.
 
the Dremel doesn't do a bad job. The important thing is to get the right angles, both the verticle and the horizontal.

Here's a good video:
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Buy another chain!

:agree2:

I prefer to sharpen with a file and file guide in a heavy vise on my workbench, so I take a few sharpened chains into the field with me for long cutting sessions. Chain gets dull? Just swap it with a sharp one and keep cutting.

I do have a stump vise if I need to sharpen in the field, but I rarely use it.
 
:agree2:

I prefer to sharpen with a file and file guide in a heavy vise on my workbench, so I take a few sharpened chains into the field with me for long cutting sessions. Chain gets dull? Just swap it with a sharp one and keep cutting.

I do have a stump vise if I need to sharpen in the field, but I rarely use it.

That's exactly what I do.:chainsawguy:
 
I second a good file.once you get a 'saveedge' file you'll keep a few on hand for future use.lock your bar in a good vise,mark a link on the chain with a silver colored sharpie,look at the top of the tooth,there is usually a line on top of it to use as a guide.push the file against the tooth with a forward stroke.keep your file parallel to the line on top the tooth do not push on the tooth on the back stroke.make three or four strokes on each tooth then reverse the bar in the vise and repeat on the other side of teeth.the more you practice the better you'll get.remember a dull file is completely useless
 
Thanks for all your help, I think I'll grab a file on the way home tomorrow.
ps I have a jonsered 625 that was giving to me and I can't get going, anyone in Orange County NY or NW NJ that can help or point me in the right direction
Thanks
 
I say use a file too. Youll have better results and after some practice itll be just as fast. If your lookin for a simple easy to use guide I recommend the carlton file o plate. There just a few bucks and better than any of the other more expensive ones I tried, IMO. I freehand most of the time and just use a guide ever couple few sharpenings or if I get in some wire or something and gotta really work on it.
 
Just heat treat the cutting edges and never worry about sharpening. I bought a house in the woods that previous home owner never removed any dead trees that fell. I went through three chains this spring (cutting rotten trees on the ground) and took the old chain to work to test it on the Hardness tester. The Oregon chains (cutting edge) are heat treated to Rockwell 38. This is very soft compare to Carbide with Rockwell 88-95 that you will find on most table saws or commercial lumber mills saws. They do this on purpose so you keep on buying chains. I bought micro torch that runs on propane and heated just the edges of each tooth till they were glowing red, then pressed ice cubes into them. Been cutting for the entire summer and fall without ever needing to sharpen. And I've been cutting only nasty stuff laying on the ground with grass growing on top. I have six cords of wood from rotten trees and probably another 4 cords of waste I cut off that was all moldy and completely rotten. My chain finally fell apart (broke chain ling) right before Thanksgiving. The chain was just worn down all over the place and bar groove was all messed up. That's how long the chain lasted. Got new bar and chain and heat treated the edges right away. I have two more trees that are few years old on the ground and then I get to cut some nice clean fresh wood for a change. I'm tried of cutting this garbage but I have to clean up what is laying around first.
 
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Just heat treat the cutting edges and never worry about sharpening. I bought a house in the woods that previous home owner never removed any dead trees that fell. I went through three chains this spring (cutting rotten trees on the ground) and took the old chain to work to test it on the Hardness tester. The Oregon chains (cutting edge) are heat treated to Rockwell 38. This is very soft compare to Carbide with Rockwell 88-95 that you will find on most table saws or commercial lumber mills saws. They do this on purpose so you keep on buying chains. I bought micro torch that runs on propane and heated just the edges of each tooth till they were glowing red, then pressed ice cubes into them. Been cutting for the entire summer and fall without ever needing to sharpen. And I've been cutting only nasty stuff laying on the ground with grass growing on top. I have six cords of wood from rotten trees and probably another 4 cords of waste I cut off that was all moldy and completely rotten. My chain finally fell apart (broke chain ling) right before Thanksgiving. The chain was just worn down all over the place and bar groove was all messed up. That's how long the chain lasted. Got new bar and chain and heat treated the edges right away. I have two more trees that are few years old on the ground and then I get to cut some nice clean fresh wood for a change. I'm tried of cutting this garbage but I have to clean up what is laying around first.

:popcorn:
 
Just heat treat the cutting edges and never worry about sharpening. I bought a house in the woods that previous home owner never removed any dead trees that fell. I went through three chains this spring (cutting rotten trees on the ground) and took the old chain to work to test it on the Hardness tester. The Oregon chains (cutting edge) are heat treated to Rockwell 38. This is very soft compare to Carbide with Rockwell 88-95 that you will find on most table saws or commercial lumber mills saws. They do this on purpose so you keep on buying chains. I bought micro torch that runs on propane and heated just the edges of each tooth till they were glowing red, then pressed ice cubes into them. Been cutting for the entire summer and fall without ever needing to sharpen. And I've been cutting only nasty stuff laying on the ground with grass growing on top. I have six cords of wood from rotten trees and probably another 4 cords of waste I cut off that was all moldy and completely rotten. My chain finally fell apart (broke chain ling) right before Thanksgiving. The chain was just worn down all over the place and bar groove was all messed up. That's how long the chain lasted. Got new bar and chain and heat treated the edges right away. I have two more trees that are few years old on the ground and then I get to cut some nice clean fresh wood for a change. I'm tried of cutting this garbage but I have to clean up what is laying around first.


Ooooooooooooooooo k
 

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