Husky starting techniques

[crozier]

Husky 262 troubleshooting

I just was given a Husky 262xp. It doesn't want to start. It would run for a few seconds when I shot starting fluid or added a few drops of fuel mix into the carb. I noticed that the gas line had leaks so I replaced it. Now it will not fire at all even though I'm getting a spark from the plug. Air Cleaner is fine, muffler is not clogged. Any Ideas on what to try next?

Can you add a decomp. valve to this saw as it does not have one.

Any help is appreciated.

 

[stonykill]

I just was given a Husky 262xp. It doesn't want to start. It would run for a few seconds when I shot starting fluid or added a few drops of fuel mix into the carb. I noticed that the gas line had leaks so I replaced it. Now it will not fire at all even though I'm getting a spark from the plug. Air Cleaner is fine, muffler is not clogged. Any Ideas on what to try next?

Can you add a decomp. valve to this saw as it does not have one.

Any help is appreciated.

there is absolutely no need for a decomp on this saw.

Start simple. Replace the plug even though it has spark. Some plugs will fire in the open, but not under compression. Change the fuel filter. Clean the carb if it still won't start and run, but it should by then

 

[blis]

Yes, if your saw carb is equipped with electric heat,your carb will become too warm and causes vapor lock and will your saw hard to start after refueling or when cutting the saw will seems like short on fuel at hi rpm .

still, i have to say that i have never heard of that, and i really doubt if it get too hot since its thermostat controlled (varb heating) and havent got any of those symptons you just named...

 

[NYH1]

My 365 starts real easy so far. When stone cold I pull the choke out, push the decomp valve in, pull 2 to 3 times, push the choke back in and it usually starts on the next pull. When it first starts it runs at a higher RPM, I just burp the throttle and it go's back to normal. If it's warm, I just pull it and it starts right up.

 

[SawTroll]

there is absolutely no need for a decomp on this saw.

Start simple. Replace the plug even though it has spark. Some plugs will fire in the open, but not under compression. Change the fuel filter. Clean the carb if it still won't start and run, but it should by then

That 262xp has to be pretty old, if it doesn't have a decomp valve. I believe you have to change out the cylinder with the newer versin, to get one.

Take a look at the tank vent also, just in case.......

 

[SawTroll]

My 365 starts real easy so far. When stone cold I pull the choke out, push the decomp valve in, pull 2 to 3 times, push the choke back in and it usually starts on the next pull. When it first starts it runs at a higher RPM, I just burp the throttle and it go's back to normal. If it's warm, I just pull it and it starts right up.

That is as it should be......

 

[SawTroll]

Yes, if your saw carb is equipped with electric heat,your carb will become too warm and causes vapor lock and will your saw hard to start after refueling or when cutting the saw will seems like short on fuel at hi rpm .

Good call, but....

.....not all saws with heated handles have heated carb as well - my 353G and 361W doesn't (361WV/Arctic does), but my 372xpg do....

On the Huskys it can vary from market to market, but it says so on the saw, if it has carb heating (provided the label isn't worn off).

 

[manual]

A decompression valve is a good thing. Has nothing to do with being Macho.
Yes it makes it easier to pull start your engine.
Also the decompression valve saves on your saw in the start mode. Less drag.
If you have one use it.

 

[Woodie]

When it first starts it runs at a higher RPM, I just burp the throttle and it go's back to normal.

That's the combined choke and start throttle at work.

I believe most of the other mfgrs are this way, too, but pulling the choke automatically sets the throttle to half-way or so, even after you've pushed it back in. When hot starting, unless I've literally just sat the saw down, I usually pull the choke then push it right back in prior to starting in order to get that part throttle.

Nice feature in my opinion.

 

[SawTroll]

That's the combined choke and start throttle at work.

I believe most of the other mfgrs are this way, too, but pulling the choke automatically sets the throttle to half-way or so, even after you've pushed it back in. When hot starting, unless I've literally just sat the saw down, I usually pull the choke then push it right back in prior to starting in order to get that part throttle.

Nice feature in my opinion.

For warm starts I like to avoid the "high idle", just pull the red stop-switch right up on the smaller Huskys/Jreds, no need to pull the lever out, really.
On most other saws, just use the "on" switch, wherever it is (one position down from stop on Stihls "multilever").

 

[blis]

Good call, but....

.....not all saws with heated handles have heated carb as well - my 353G and 361W doesn't (361WV/Arctic does), but my 372xpg do....

On the Huskys it can vary from market to market, but it says so on the saw, if it has carb heating (provided the label isn't worn off).

huh, your 353g doesnt have carb heating? :O

you know, mine does...

 

[Woodie]

For warm starts I like to avoid the "high idle", just pull the red stop-switch right up on the smaller Huskys/Jreds, no need to pull the lever out, really.
On most other saws, just use the "on" switch, wherever it is (one position down from stop on Stihls "multilever").

I do that often times, too, and almost always when it's a true "hot" start. For warm starts...after the saw's set for several minutes, I find I can save a pull or two by engaging the fast idle.

I do use the decomp button always, though. (Okay, "always when I remember to use it.") I agree with some of the others here...it's at least as much about the saw as it is about your pulling effort. There's not THAT much difference in pulling effort on a 70cc saw, at least not that I can consistently feel. But over time, I bet that adds up on the saw.

 

[romeo]

Which model do I need?

I believe your muffler is the E-tech #537 07 54-02, I think the one you want is 503 86 38-03.

Saw Troll would be the guy who would know for sure. I had one that I modded on an E-tech saw. They crimped it shut so I cut the seam off with an angle grinder, gutted it (there was all kinds of cr@p in there), then welded it back together. Went from a 10 puller to a 2 puller and it runs a whole lot better now.

IMHO, I dont think the EPA saws help the environment as much as they would lead you to believe, since you have to run the saw twice as long to do the same amount of work. Not to mention that the heat and carbon build up will kill your saw allot quicker, making you have to throw it in the trash and ruin the environment even more.

Save the planet, mod your saw

 

[SawTroll]

For warm starts...after the saw's set for several minutes, I find I can save a pull or two by engaging the fast idle.
.....

That is true, and you have to know your saw to determine when it is still HOT, and when it is just WARM....

 

[SawTroll]

I believe your muffler is the E-tech #537 07 54-02, I think the one you want is 503 86 38-03.

Saw Troll would be the guy who would know for sure. ....

I don't really know for sure, but the EU mufflers with the tube outlet was 503 86 27-02, and now are -03 - these do not have a spark arrestor net, or provision for it.

All the others are better than the E-tech ones, anyway.......

I believe MAG58 may have more info on this issue, as I believe he has studied it more than I have.....:yoyo: :yoyo:

 

[Fubar411]

I think you might be close with that part number for the non-EPA muffler. It looks to run around $38, so that seems reasonable if I can get it to start easier and run better.

 

[royta]

You know, it's a cryin' shame that there are, so far, three pages dedicated to how to start a Husky. Sorry about your luck. :hmm3grin2orange:

 

[Woodie]

You know, it's a cryin' shame that there are, so far, three pages dedicated to how to start a Husky. Sorry about your luck. :hmm3grin2orange:

Good point! It's one of those topics that comes along so rarely that people like to throw out lots of advice.

The Stihl owners, let's just say you need only use the search feature...

 

[SawTroll]

You know, it's a cryin' shame that there are, so far, three pages dedicated to how to start a Husky. Sorry about your luck. :hmm3grin2orange:

Good point! It's one of those topics that comes along so rarely that people like to throw out lots of advice.

The Stihl owners, let's just say you need only use the search feature...

This isn't exactly rocket science, just some common sense, and it has nothing to do with Husky vs. Stihl........

 

[royta]

The Stihl owners, let's just say you need only use the search feature...

Oooh, that one hurt.